Calorifer in Yanmar 4lha stp

wofforduk

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Hi, I am coming to the end of my re power, of fitting a Yanmar 240hp in the place of the 5l mercruiser v8. have had a lot of fun getting custom parts made ect, and i can prove that you really do not need to spend big buck to convert a petrol to a diesel! :)

Just a quick q, if anyone has a calorifer that they use with this engine, it would be great to see where you have got it plumbed into, i can see two potential allen key blanks which i assume these are exactly for this, but if anyone has any pics then that would be really helpful!

Many thanks
Will
 

Firefly625

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Hi, I am coming to the end of my re power, of fitting a Yanmar 240hp in the place of the 5l mercruiser v8. have had a lot of fun getting custom parts made ect, and i can prove that you really do not need to spend big buck to convert a petrol to a diesel! :)

Just a quick q, if anyone has a calorifer that they use with this engine, it would be great to see where you have got it plumbed into, i can see two potential allen key blanks which i assume these are exactly for this, but if anyone has any pics then that would be really helpful!

Many thanks
Will

Not on my boat for a week, if nobody else comes up with a pic by then happy to take a couple.
 

Spi D

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Does this help?

Red handles:

91.jpg
 

wofforduk

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Yep, thats perfect, thanks! Its just where I was thinking of putting it.

Thanks, ill get cracking with it now!!

:)
Will
 

wofforduk

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Ohh just a quick one, your water intake, next to your main crank pulley, is that for the engine cooling, and is it just a standard skin fitting or a scoop? Cheers!!
 

Spi D

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Not my boat.. just stumbled over the pic and remembered your querry.

My boat has a sea water filter like the one in the pic, connected to a standard sea cock w/strainer. Double setup to feed twin engines, though.

Several ways to do it. Begin by measuring the intake on the engine, select proper (reinforced because it work under vacuum when pulling water in) hose and matching fittings/valve. The through-hull fitting should have a strainer

Eg.
Picture111.jpg
 

Spi D

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Hint, btw:

I've made a spare transparent lid on the filter and fitted a standard garden hose connector to it. Makes running engines on the hard much easier, also when winterizing w/ antifreeze :)
 

wofforduk

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Cheers Mate,

Thats the one ill go for then, have got a system in place but it uses the leg for all the water, which under my initial trial as not good enough. will blank this off (letting it flow through the leg for cooling) and go to a through hull fitting like that one. Any idea where i can get one that doesnt cost too much?

Cheers
Will
 

Spi D

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Cost.. erhh..

I think my first focus would be to get the original intake to work. If not feasible I'd shop around (checking the interweb) and probably take it from a local pusher to get advice etc. along with it.

Thru hull fittings must be right.. a break will sink you in no time.

I'd fit the filter above the waterline to be able to open/clean while in the water, without flooding the boat. On my own I've added an Aqualarm flow control to be alerted early in the case of insufficient flow. Again, twin to serve both engines separately.
 

wofforduk

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thats a good plan, my strainer is already above the waterline for exactly this purpose and it has a clear lid, this is how i know its not getting enough flow is that it must be sucking in a lot of air (can see a lot of bubbling at high rev, and very little flow at idle. have fitted new impellor too! I know that the pipe on the intake (where the bellows are) is not perfect and am very suspicious of this area. Plus, its an inch pipe, that feeds an 1-1/4 inch system - this must be a bad restraint. Will check over the weekend to find any air leaks by back pressuring the system with water, and duct taping the little inlet holes. this should show any leaks pretty well!

i will probs come up with a flush system, and luckily am fairly close to a small private lake where I can test it.

Trust me, when it comes to drilling a ratherly large hole in the bottom of the boat, i am well aware that this is not one to get wrong..!! and also need the stop cock straight onto the intake too - taking no chances on this one.!

cheers for the help so far - cant wait to get on the coast !!
 

duncan

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Bet you wish access to the front of the engine was as easy in our boats as in the photo - might even be able to clean the bilge then

looking at that picture I know exactly what you mean re access - I tend to take off the alternator and power steering pump just to get at the raw water impeller! Whilst I can remove the plate without doing so, and in theory 'pulling' the impeller is possible........the reality is that removing all the other ancillaries is much less likely to cause frustration overload, and the potential for resorting to inappropriate behavior with large tools to resolve the odd issue that crops up!

the cooling requirements of these engines on drives is one of the more interesting forum topics you find - with many installations on leg intake only and the 'yes it's OK, no it isn't' views flying everywhere! Mines as per the picture - and you will always get some air in the top of the raw water strainer volume from what I have seen (for the last 14 years of running one). The engine pick up from the strainer is at the lower/side and as long as this is covered everything is fine. A spare table tennis ball in the strainer basket gives you a very clear visual as to the actual level.
 
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