Calorifer in Yanmar 4lha stp

Spi D

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thats a good plan, my strainer is already above the waterline for exactly this purpose and it has a clear lid, this is how i know its not getting enough flow is that it must be sucking in a lot of air (can see a lot of bubbling at high rev, and very little flow at idle. have fitted new impellor too! I know that the pipe on the intake (where the bellows are) is not perfect and am very suspicious of this area. Plus, its an inch pipe, that feeds an 1-1/4 inch system - this must be a bad restraint. Will check over the weekend to find any air leaks by back pressuring the system with water, and duct taping the little inlet holes. this should show any leaks pretty well!

i will probs come up with a flush system, and luckily am fairly close to a small private lake where I can test it.

Trust me, when it comes to drilling a ratherly large hole in the bottom of the boat, i am well aware that this is not one to get wrong..!! and also need the stop cock straight onto the intake too - taking no chances on this one.!

cheers for the help so far - cant wait to get on the coast !!

Agreed - if the original intake is not working and not mendable, the safe way is to isolate it. If OK but insufficient (unlikely), I might consider keeping it, running both in parallel up to the filter.

Regarding water flow through leg to cool things: If no pump is drawing water in, the flow will be minimal or at least out of control.
 

stuartwineberg

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You have no idea - sorry I don't have a photo but the calorifier taps are squeezed in at the top front of the engine and the whole thing is hard up against a structural bulkhead that just clears the front pulley. I don't know why I am moaning though because VP is the one who scuffs his knuckles - it isn't an easy engine to do something like and emergency impeller or belt change on though

View attachment 42393

Talk about tight fitting?? haha please excuse my dirty bay, its a lot cleaner now!! :)
 

Beamishken

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Yanmar 6lp uses an unequal tee in the system and draws water from the leg and an 1 1/2"scoop. I think the 4lh should have the same system which gives you a little insurance if the scoop gets blocked. Strangely only the through hull pick up is routed through the strainer the tee is mounted on the side of the bellhousing
Hope this helps
 

wofforduk

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Spi D - apparently the normal set up is to have both in parallel if the sea water is warm. not intending to go too far from south coast of uk so doubt it would be a problem, especially with our climate! will see if i can rectify the leg system, if not then ill go for the skin fitting.

Stuartwineberg - yes bet there are much tighter installs! poor VP, know what its like! fortunately, i dont have the power steering pump (although i have an electric one of a saxo.. seems to be perfect) so it does make access a little bit eaier.. but still not great! getting the old impellor out was - fun?? haha.!

still, the scars on my hands are meant to be manly?? :D

Will
 

wofforduk

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cheers Ken, sounds like its needed for the larger engine, but hoping it will be okay for the 240hp, as everything seems a little smaller. best way is to try it i spose, can always fit stuff later on and worst case of getting hot is to throttle back!
 

Beamishken

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cheers Ken, sounds like its needed for the larger engine, but hoping it will be okay for the 240hp, as everything seems a little smaller. best way is to try it i spose, can always fit stuff later on and worst case of getting hot is to throttle back!
Im fairly sure even the 6lp would be fine wiyh just the through hull pick up but I liked the idea of a bit of backup built in as far as I know only yanmar use both pickups
the bravo pickup alone is definately too small
 

Spi D

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The Yanmar impeller pump is a manufacturer branded Johnson/Jabsco type F7B-9 with 1" in- and outlets (so look for hose & thru hull fittings of this size). I'd use 2x stainless Jubilee clips both ends.

Pretty efficient pump even at idle so make sure you have plenty supply if running on a garden hose.

Yanmar part 10-24535-01 but sharing all common parts with Volvo, Ford, John Deere etc. who all use the same base pump in various flange and connection configs. Although common the pump is pricey, but parts are available. See page 210 + 211 of this (large download) pdf
http://www.rosesmarine.com/pdfs/OEM_book.pdf


Impellers are easy to find at seemingly fair prices :)
 
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Beamishken

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The Yanmar impeller pump is a manufacturer branded Johnson/Jabsco type F7B-9 with 1" in- and outlets (so look for hose & thru hull fittings of this size). I'd use 2x stainless Jubilee clips both ends.

Pretty efficient pump even at idle so make sure you have plenty supply if running on a garden hose.

Yanmar part 10-24535-01 but sharing all common parts with Volvo, Ford, John Deere etc. who all use the same base pump in various flange and connection configs. Although common the pump is pricey, but parts are available. See page 224 + 225 of this (large download) pdf
http://www.rosesmarine.com/pdfs/OEM_book.pdf


Impellers are easy to find at seemingly fair prices :)

1"hose is too small use 11/2" scoop ,ballvalve and strainer 11/2"hose through the complete system
Remember the raw water isnt cooling the block it is just reducing the temp of the cooling water via the heat exchanger and the intake air via the intercooler so you need a bigger volume of water than you would for raw water cooling
Use the clear spiral wound hose so you can see the water flow
 
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Spi D

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1".. use 11/2" scoop ,ballvalve and strainer 11/2"hose through the complete system..

Still only 1" hose connections on the pump itself so only benefit from oversizing the rest is reduced resistance and flow speed. But you'll have to adapt the large hose to the smaller pump barbs.
 

Spi D

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If so 1" is of course plain wrong.

Just got the 1" off a specs sheet :eek:

wofforduk: Check actual size before ordering stuff

A closer look confirms the size 1 ½" - my bad, sorry:
f7b.png
 
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wofforduk

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Thanks for the info so far!!

update as to where i am - back pressured the system with water by duct taping the intake holes on the leg and found a very bad connection on the hose going to the plastic part on the transom for the water intake, it was piddling water out.
must have been leaking a bit when the engine is off too, as its below the W.L. so tightened the clips up as far as they'd go. have a very small drip.... drip... drip.. on the pipe between the transom and the helmet - but im not gunna worry about that - knew where would be as its a rubbish system, those plastic cones to hold the pipe in are next to useless!!!

Anyways, put her in a test tank and had a load of water coming though at idle, compared to none before, im pretty sure its solved. almost time for sea trials!!

I have got a Sterling (Yes i work for them but im not trying to have a plug tho! :D ) temperature alarm, set to 60deg, jubilee clipped to the lower part of the exhaust horn, so if anything goes wrong and it heats up, ill know very quickly (and the buzzer is LOUD...)

next job, fit this damn calorifier!!

Thanks
Will
 

wofforduk

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It's def a bravo shield, there is the plastic part that bolts onto the inner side, which my pipe wasn't tight onto. In some ways the alpha type was better, as they had proper jubilee clips for the water pipe!
 

Beamishken

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Sorry I thought you were describing the clips on the outboard side of the alpha transom not inside the bravo one
I wouldnt run with just the transom pickup it realy is asking for trouble many overheated engines as a result .
Its realy designed for raw water cooling where you need less water flow
 

wofforduk

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Thats alright its never easy to describe it by text!!

Yeah im gunna try it with the pick up, id really like to avoid drilling massive holes in the hull if i can help it. one way to find out i guess, unless its somewhere between uk and france.. :D more lake trials tomorrow i guess.
 
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