Bukh (Hurth) gearbox

jerryat

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On my Bukh 24 it's the same stuff as in the engine. So provided you use one of those recommended by Bukh for the engine (big range of makes/types) you can bung it in the gearbox too. This applies to the BW-7 though and I don't know if the hurth is different.

I don't think it is, but better to check with Bukh Diesel UK just in case.
 

Poignard

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That's intersting. I was worried about that and that's why I phoned BUKH, to see if I would have to go and track down some SAE 30, and I was assured that Multigrade was ok!

I have used Castrol multigrade in there for donkeys ears and it's given no problems but I'll give BUKH a ring next week and see if they have revised their advice.

Does anyone have a manual for a recent BUKH engine? It would be interesting to see what is recommended nowadays.
 

oldharry

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I'm not a gearbox expert, but the engineer in the workshop at my local agent advised me against using anything but 30 SAE in either the engine or the box.

But, maybe because his 30SAE was £35 a tin - and not even marked as 'Marine'??!
 

jerryat

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[ QUOTE ]

Does anyone have a manual for a recent BUKH engine? It would be interesting to see what is recommended nowadays.

[/ QUOTE ]

I have a manual for for my year old Bukh 24. Is that a similar engine to yours?

For this engine, a 15W-40 multigrade is recommended and they give a few manufacturers that I'll post if you need it.
 

Poignard

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[ QUOTE ]
For this engine, a 15W-40 multigrade is recommended and they give a few manufacturers that I'll post if you need it.

[/ QUOTE ]

Yes please.

BTW I have just found the handbook for my 1982 BUKH DV10ME. It gives the following info:-

Lub oil quality: API, CC or CD, MILL-L-4615
Viscosity: SAE30

This is for a ZF gearbox.

As I said above, I'm quite happy to continue using multigrade as I have been doing for the last 10 years. I don't know what previous owners used but as far as I know [and at the risk of tempting fate!!!] the gearbox has never needed any repair since it was installed 25 years ago.
 

jerryat

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Hi TO,

Ok, Bukh suggest the following options, but bear in mind that this list is for the B24 direct injection engine and BW-7 gearbox:

BP Oil - Vanellus C4 Global - SAE 15W-40 API CF-4/CF/SG
Vanellus C3 Extra - API CF4/CE/SF
Caltex - Delo 350 Multigrade - SAE 15W-40 API CF
Castrol – Castrol RX Superplus - SAE 15W-40 API CH-4
Chevron – RPM Heavy duty - SAE 15W-40 API CD-11
Exxon/Esso – Essolube XT301 - SAE 16W-40 API CG-4 FZG11 (Gearbox only)
Mobile Oil – Mobilegard 1 SHC - API CD/CF/CF2
- Mobilegard HSD - 15W-40 API CG-4/CF-4/CF/SH
Nippon Oil Company - HiDiesel - S-3 SAVE – SAE 15W-40 CD
Shell Oil – Rimula X - SAE 15W-40
Texaco – URSA Super LA - SAE 15W-40 API CG-4
Statoil – Powerway 15W-40 - SAE 15W-40 API CF4/SJ

All the above (and no, I’ve never heard of most of ‘em either!) can be used in both the engine AND gearbox.

Out of interest, Norman Griffiths (Bukh Diesel UK) recommended the Rimula stuff as the best in their view for both. It’s what I use anyway.

I’m quite sure you are perfectly ok in using a multigrade as you have been. Hope this helps.
 

oldharry

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It looks rather as though the older Bukh gearboxes like mine do need the SAE30 grade, while newer ones like those fitted to the 24s are OK with multigrade. But when was the change made and how do you tell which is which?
 

jerryat

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[ QUOTE ]
It looks rather as though the older Bukh gearboxes like mine do need the SAE30 grade, while newer ones like those fitted to the 24s are OK with multigrade. But when was the change made and how do you tell which is which?

[/ QUOTE ]

Well, I simply ask either Norman Griffiths or Al Pearson about anything that I'm in doubt about. Certainly I stuck with SAE30 in my two previous 10 hp and 20hp Bukh's (different boats) because that was the recommendation for them - engines and gearboxes. However, I remember asking Al years ago, before shoving off full time cruising, what I should use if SAE30 wasn't available, and he said use a good multigrade!! Like TO, we never had a problem.

One thing we ALWAYS do though, is to change the oil in the engine every 100 hours or sooner (if it's at the end of the season) instead of the 150 recommended. We reckon it's one of the cheapest ways to help keep an engine in top condition. It takes no time at all and costs next to nothing!
 
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