Buckingham 20 restoration, formerly Plant Pot

[KDee]

Wayne, can you attach the canopy roof frame to the underside of your hardtop, with two supports down to the corners of the transom? That way, the canvas roof could stay put most of the time, with the side and rear canopy sections zipped or turnbuckled on for ease of removal and reattachment? They could roll up/ down too. You could even make the roof support to slide in/ out under the hard top to give more open air on the good days.
Good luck!

 

[waynes world]

W,

I doubt you can find tubes that would slide one in another, and if you would, the larger one would make a mess and score v.badly and v.quickly the smaller one!
I tried to design something like that for my aft deck, once you'd do it properly with an ertalon piece to slide through, sizes were way too bulky and ugly, so dropped the idea all together.
I'd try and design it in a way that you have parts pivoting out of the way, not easy I agree, but I think doable.

looking forward to some real action and progress!

cheers

V.

Hi V

Long time hey, hope you are going well with yours. I need to catch up some time.

I agree on what you say and now thoughts on the bulk/size of it will be to much.

I am happy to have the rear section/upright if need be, it would only as high as a standard seat which is around 18-20inch.

Wayne, can you attach the canopy roof frame to the underside of your hardtop, with two supports down to the corners of the transom? That way, the canvas roof could stay put most of the time, with the side and rear canopy sections zipped or turnbuckled on for ease of removal and reattachment? They could roll up/ down too. You could even make the roof support to slide in/ out under the hard top to give more open air on the good days.
Good luck!

A bit tired now and after reading that i think i get you and will do a sketch asap and post it up for you to see if i get what you mean.

But yes top of canvas can stay put and sides removed as that is what the plan is, then to drop down the top section with corners.

 

[jfm]

You can buy stock telescopic-friendly s/s tube. Eg 22mm dia slides perfectly in 25mm dia with 1.2mm wall. And 1 inch slides quite well in 30mm dia with 1.5 wall
https://www.seascrew.com/browse.cfm...-RAIL-TUBING-22MM-25MM-30MM-DIA-&l=0000000176

Also you can buy stock clamp screws and button devices. Scroll 80% down this page https://www.seascrew.com/browse.cfm...NE-STAINLESS-316--FOR-25MM-TUBE-&l=0000000175

 

[vas]

You can buy stock telescopic-friendly s/s tube. Eg 22mm dia slides perfectly in 25mm dia with 1.2mm wall. And 1 inch slides quite well in 30mm dia with 1.5 wall
https://www.seascrew.com/browse.cfm...-RAIL-TUBING-22MM-25MM-30MM-DIA-&l=0000000176

Also you can buy stock clamp screws and button devices. Scroll 80% down this page https://www.seascrew.com/browse.cfm...NE-STAINLESS-316--FOR-25MM-TUBE-&l=0000000175

John,

you're talking about this:

Slide Joints for 22mm to go into our 25mm Tube
with this & 22 & 25mm tube you can make an adjustable telescopic support
(Reference 4665800)

is it lined inside with something that protects the smaller tube from scoring? Would be interested if so!

cheers

V.

 

[Bouba]

You could even make the roof support to slide in/ out under the hard top to give more open air on the good days.
Good luck!

This second idea from KDee is the same as my old wheelhouse boat (if I’ve understood him properly). Sliding tubes (but on the roof) with the material concertinad when the frame is slid in. The only problem is that I can’t see how to attach side curtains, it’s a sun shade only.


(Incidently, this picture is from a review and these are the people who run the French Moteur Boat Magazine)

 

[KDee]

This second idea from KDee is the same as my old wheelhouse boat (if I’ve understood him properly). Sliding tubes (but on the roof) with the material concertinad when the frame is slid in. The only problem is that I can’t see how to attach side curtains, it’s a sun shade only.


(Incidently, this picture is from a review and these are the people who run the French Moteur Boat Magazine)

Yes, that’s the idea, with a double (6 inch-ish) skirt around the perimeter. Inner skirt with zip or turnbuckles to attach sides, outer skirt velco’d down to keep the rain out. Tube down at each corner to support the weight.

 

[Bouba]

with a double (6 inch-ish) skirt around the perimeter. Inner skirt with zip or turnbuckles to attach sides, outer skirt velco’d down to keep the rain out. Tube down at each corner to support the weight.

Clever:encouragement: it’s obvious now! I was trying to think how to attach the side curtains to the frame:sleeping:

 

[waynes world]

I will have a measure up this weekend Kdee and see what i can do with that design you suggest. Could be a goer, just size up where the frame can go. Thanks for the suggestion I will need to look into how the top canopy section will be removed with ease an not to much of a faff.


John

After todays thought that will work, for the top of the hoop to slide into the lower frame legs.

Going to to work out what i will need on fittings for this one while i chill out tonight.

ps
John, i tried to send a PM to say thanks for the material but your inbox is/was full, so thanks for it.


Thanks guys

 

[waynes world]

John,

you're talking about this:

Slide Joints for 22mm to go into our 25mm Tube
with this & 22 & 25mm tube you can make an adjustable telescopic support
(Reference 4665800)

is it lined inside with something that protects the smaller tube from scoring? Would be interested if so!

cheers

V.

I know they must work ok and hold the joint tight but a small knurled button doesnt do it for me. i wold like to use this type they have, seems better.

Then a small T bar could be swapped for the knurled button/knob. Make it easier on week fingers.

https://www.seascrew.com/browse.cfm?25MM-BOAT-RAIL-STAINLESS-TUBE-FITTINGS&p=0000006080

 

[jfm]

John,

you're talking about this:

Slide Joints for 22mm to go into our 25mm Tube
with this & 22 & 25mm tube you can make an adjustable telescopic support
(Reference 4665800)

is it lined inside with something that protects the smaller tube from scoring? Would be interested if so!

cheers

V.

Yes that's the item. No it's not lined, but if you fettle the cut end of the larger dia tube I don't see how it is going to life-changingly score the smaller tube. I've used this sort of stuff for years without scoring problems.

 

[jfm]

I know they must work ok and hold the joint tight but a small knurled button doesnt do it for me. i wold like to use this type they have, seems better.

Then a small T bar could be swapped for the knurled button/knob. Make it easier on week fingers.

https://www.seascrew.com/browse.cfm?25MM-BOAT-RAIL-STAINLESS-TUBE-FITTINGS&p=0000006080

Wayne that fitting clamps onto the outside of the 25mm tube but wont crush it enough to grip the inner 22mm tube, unless you cut slits in the 25mm tube.

Sorry about inbox (now cleared!) but thanks for the thanks and hope all well

 

[waynes world]

Wayne that fitting clamps onto the outside of the 25mm tube but wont crush it enough to grip the inner 22mm tube, unless you cut slits in the 25mm tube.

Sorry about inbox (now cleared!) but thanks for the thanks and hope all well

Just done a quick work out on fittings and looked at using 25mm for top hoop and 22mm for the rest with the 22mm clamp so then slide the 25mm hoop up the 22mm and clamp up. The clamp will either be free running up and down the 22mm when loosened or i can weld the clamp to the bottom of the 25mm tube legs, only on one half of the clamp though obviously..

Just wondering now if these corners wll be ok for the top hoop,i was going to get some 100mm radius pre formed tube and weld it all up to make the hoop.

Thinking a bigger radius will be better for the job ?

https://www.seascrew.com/browse.cfm?25MM-BOAT-RAIL-STAINLESS-TUBE-FITTINGS&p=0000001581

 

[waynes world]

Just putting this here so i know where to find it.


2 x 22mm 90º Corner.. Stainless 316 Rail Fitting
6 x 22mm End Eye. Stainless 316 Rail Fitting
2 x 1 Metre Length Stainless 316 Tube 22mm Ø x 1.2 mm Thick.
2 x 1 Metre Length 25mm Polished 316 Stainless Tube
2 x 22mm Slide Clamp Fork. Stainless 316 Rail Fitting
2 x Base Mountted Ear. Tube Fitting. Stainless 316 Rail Fitting
1 x 1.5 Metre Length 25mm Polished 316 Stainless Tube
2 x 1.5 Metre Length Stainless 316 Tube 22mm Ø x 1.2 mm Thick.

 

[KDee]

I will have a measure up this weekend Kdee and see what i can do with that design you suggest. Could be a goer, just size up where the frame can go. Thanks for the suggestion I will need to look into how the top canopy section will be removed with ease an not to much of a faff.

Try Velcro straps, three ? each side, three ? at the back.

John

After todays thought that will work, for the top of the hoop to slide into the lower frame legs.

Going to to work out what i will need on fittings for this one while i chill out tonight.

ps
John, i tried to send a PM to say thanks for the material but your inbox is/was full, so thanks for it.


Thanks guys

 

[waynes world]

Very little to update due to health etc here but here goes.

Canopy design is decided and is going to be a full hoop with the support. It will be a top section sliding down over the lower half or so. I will be ordering the Top Gun canvas in a few weeks along with the metal work etc.

This weekend I managed to laminate the galley front so ready for the top laminate when i choose the colour, not wood as there is enough I am thinking a deep gloss cream type. Just a 650grm combo and topped of with i think a 250grm woven with a 5mm ply backing, should keep the curve and shape nicely. . I started trimming with ally U channel around the inspection covers in the heads and was going to finish them off today but other stuff got in the way. still at least i got motivated hey.

Looking at that its a bloody shamefull work.

Ah well.

The laminated panel will be removed as i fitted blocks to the back for easy removal and in places with no rear access i used small screws through the ply so it can be ripped/pried off so then i can laminate the panel. It will be difficult to do while in situ as contact adhesive is good but once on its on.



If i have the energy this week i will finish the inspection hatchs and think the best way to cover up the the dam daft mistake i did by putting the hammer through the PVC cladding, a towel hook or something.


Bit by bit.

 

[Lloydroberts]

Don't beat yourself up, you're doing a great job.

 

[Bouba]

The more you put in, the bigger the boat looks

 

[waynes world]

Don't beat yourself up, you're doing a great job.

Thanks, just get annoyed at stupid mistakes I make.

The more you put in, the bigger the boat looks

Shame it doesnt `get` bigger isnt it then I wouldnt keep looking for a bigger boat lol.


Of to look at which canopy fasteners i want now. Think it will be Turn buttons/buckles. I am not keen press studs as fiddly and can be pain in cold weather.

Oh and a couple of zips so the side panels/doors can be removed. I thought to day that if I make a mess of the canopy then at least i will have the frame made and the design i want for a company to make me one.

A little self defeating that isnt it

 

[sogood]

Hey Wayne, we all make mistakes. That's how many of us learn. And the really stupid, easily avoidable ones are the hardest to take, but focus on all the things you've done well, successfully. That's what I do when I screw up!

And I agree with your choice of turnbuckles. I used the button snap fasteners on my cover and they work really well, but tend to get a bit tight when exposed to the elements, so much so that I keep a small screwdriver handy to help prise them apart! I think a little grease or similar might help.


Anyway, good to see you're making progress and going strong. Keep it up!

 

[waynes world]

Hey Wayne, we all make mistakes. That's how many of us learn. And the really stupid, easily avoidable ones are the hardest to take, but focus on all the things you've done well, successfully. That's what I do when I screw up!

And I agree with your choice of turnbuckles. I used the button snap fasteners on my cover and they work really well, but tend to get a bit tight when exposed to the elements, so much so that I keep a small screwdriver handy to help prise them apart! I think a little grease or similar might help.


Anyway, good to see you're making progress and going strong. Keep it up!

Hi matey, hows things over yonder.

I screw up a lot and thats why it gets on my nerves most, but after a moment i get over it.

Got home tonight and some of the canopy has arrived. I used Seascrew in the UK for the bits for the frame. This is the first in a while i have bought something for the boat and feel good, although the price and what i am looking does not not look much for the money, hey but thats project boating

I will be ordering the Top Gun this week with all the rest of the fittings from Point north and Kyospruce.*

So top frame hoop is 25mm OD and that slides nicely ( 1.2mm wall ) over the lower frame legs of 22mmOD with a a pair of 22mm tube clamps to slide up the top hoop into position.

It is a lovely fit Vas if you read this

I have ordered a pair of preformed mandrel bent 25 OD tubes and should be here this week. I will weld these up for the hoop corners.

good sliding fit

Off now to practice sewing a bit more i think, wish me luck