rafiki_
Well-Known Member
Re: The plant pot
Great progress Wayne. Keep the updates going please��
Great progress Wayne. Keep the updates going please��
Buckingham 20 restoration, formerly Plant Pot
- Thread starter waynes world
- Start date
sarabande
Well-Known Member
Re: The plant pot
W
making progress and that must be giving good feedback.
Are you going to have a searchlight and horn/PA on the roof ? That will break up the outline and also provide additional night/fog/bridge approach faciiities ?
And looking ahead, what nav/GPS are you thinking of ?
W
making progress and that must be giving good feedback.
Are you going to have a searchlight and horn/PA on the roof ? That will break up the outline and also provide additional night/fog/bridge approach faciiities ?
And looking ahead, what nav/GPS are you thinking of ?
waynes world
Well-Known Member
Re: The plant pot
There will be a horn a search light fitted with horn but at the front near the hatch. A fly pole maybe on the rear of the canopy or transom top. Not yet decided.
Nav/GPS,,,,not even thought but for mobile handset set so I don't have it permanent on the boat. You have a suggestion.
4
There will be a horn a search light fitted with horn but at the front near the hatch. A fly pole maybe on the rear of the canopy or transom top. Not yet decided.
Nav/GPS,,,,not even thought but for mobile handset set so I don't have it permanent on the boat. You have a suggestion.
4
waynes world
Well-Known Member
Re: The plant pot
Todays task was finishing the locker and fitting new strake bolts which i dont know why i didnt stay with them in the first place, hey but then all dont go as it should first off.
Ilaminated the inner face of the locker with four 650 grm combo matt and the inside the same so this should be good and strong for the extra bow strength and good fo the anchor rode to tie to, where the cleat will be going i will be adding a few more laminations on top of a 150x150x18mm then on top a 125x125x18 marine ply pads with 3mm stainless backing pad inside the cabin..
I did forget to add more laminations on the inside below the locker to beef that area up incase of impact, infact i am glad i did as it is very thin towards the rest of the boat there .
I still need to drill drain hole/s and smooth out a bit but still all done.
The opening is large enough for a good size anchor so a 7-10kg will be fine in there with room to spare.
This is the rear side where the cleat rode will be bolted to, at the top below the strengthening batten i added some time ago.
Next job is the locker lid, that is tonight`s job while watching a film and sleeping, to design how i want it, i will use the cutout though for ease.
Lazy day to look back now as all i did before that was the strake bolts, No big deal but a few pics.
Todays task was finishing the locker and fitting new strake bolts which i dont know why i didnt stay with them in the first place, hey but then all dont go as it should first off.
Ilaminated the inner face of the locker with four 650 grm combo matt and the inside the same so this should be good and strong for the extra bow strength and good fo the anchor rode to tie to, where the cleat will be going i will be adding a few more laminations on top of a 150x150x18mm then on top a 125x125x18 marine ply pads with 3mm stainless backing pad inside the cabin..
I did forget to add more laminations on the inside below the locker to beef that area up incase of impact, infact i am glad i did as it is very thin towards the rest of the boat there .
I still need to drill drain hole/s and smooth out a bit but still all done.
The opening is large enough for a good size anchor so a 7-10kg will be fine in there with room to spare.
This is the rear side where the cleat rode will be bolted to, at the top below the strengthening batten i added some time ago.
Next job is the locker lid, that is tonight`s job while watching a film and sleeping, to design how i want it, i will use the cutout though for ease.
Lazy day to look back now as all i did before that was the strake bolts, No big deal but a few pics.
vas
Well-Known Member
Re: The plant pot
we definitely like!
what's the colour scheme going to be like W?
All white, or are you going to play a bit?
Agree re horn and searchlight on the top, would even stick a p/v panel to keep the batteries topped up.
If you decide on fitting something up there, think and organize your routing of cabling! not trivial if you want to do a decent job with no ducts visible on the pilars.
cheers
V.
Hope you like
we definitely like!
what's the colour scheme going to be like W?
All white, or are you going to play a bit?
Agree re horn and searchlight on the top, would even stick a p/v panel to keep the batteries topped up.
If you decide on fitting something up there, think and organize your routing of cabling! not trivial if you want to do a decent job with no ducts visible on the pilars.
cheers
V.
TheOrs
Well-Known Member
Re: The plant pot
I just had a look back at the initial posts you made - You have come a long way!
What happened to the Dutton?
I just had a look back at the initial posts you made - You have come a long way!
What happened to the Dutton?
waynes world
Well-Known Member
Re: The plant pot
I had a go on a paint program on the PC to see what would look good and i came back with this, white top and blue bottom, The blue does look a little bright but the colour match was a lot darker, mite try a sample first to see how it goes. On the treads on the deck i will be using the same blue but not to much. Maybe just on the gunnels and front deck a little. we will see.
I looked into the search light and found the best place to mount it is on the front inbetween the hatch and windows, if i fit it on the canopy then i believe the glare of the cabin roof can be/is bad. Also i want to keep air draft as low as i can as i will be taking it on canals aswell as lakes and the sea. From my reckonings it will have a 7 foot draft which is just close to the bridges on the canals, some are lower but i will avoid them.
Dutton went a long time ago.
we definitely like!
what's the colour scheme going to be like W?
All white, or are you going to play a bit?
Agree re horn and searchlight on the top, would even stick a p/v panel to keep the batteries topped up.
If you decide on fitting something up there, think and organize your routing of cabling! not trivial if you want to do a decent job with no ducts visible on the pilars.
cheers
V.
I had a go on a paint program on the PC to see what would look good and i came back with this, white top and blue bottom, The blue does look a little bright but the colour match was a lot darker, mite try a sample first to see how it goes. On the treads on the deck i will be using the same blue but not to much. Maybe just on the gunnels and front deck a little. we will see.
I looked into the search light and found the best place to mount it is on the front inbetween the hatch and windows, if i fit it on the canopy then i believe the glare of the cabin roof can be/is bad. Also i want to keep air draft as low as i can as i will be taking it on canals aswell as lakes and the sea. From my reckonings it will have a 7 foot draft which is just close to the bridges on the canals, some are lower but i will avoid them.
Dutton went a long time ago.
Malabarista
Well-Known Member
Excellent work and postings. I have just read from start to now and I am so inspired by your work rate and attitude. Thanks mate much obliged I'm off to the boat.
waynes world
Well-Known Member
Glad to be help
Hope you get done what you plan on. Had a good day today, with cutting angles again that is, not much good as said before but they come out ok on the rear deck hatch.
I made it a little bigger than the last one i made, not mcuh though just easier to get under incase....hey you never know.
I used the same Z profile as the locker seats had. I need to cut down the hatch but for now i sealed all the edges with resin and two more coats to go. I have ordered more Sikaflex Marine to seal it more, should be in a day or so.
Good part of having the hatch open now i can get the deck drains in, every time it rains i have had to mp all the water out and thats about 30-40l.
I had to cut down enough so there is enough thread underneath to get the comp washer tight. 12mm did the trick. These were as the rest of the wood and sealed with resin again and then on these areas some 2pk epoxy glue.
Not yet decided if these to ( one either rear corner of the deck ) will drain out the side or join in the middle and drain in the engine well, i need to see how low the outlet is.
Now then, i was pushing my luck i think here, i got these fender eyes ages ago, last year i think as i just love the solid sturdy look of them. I will be fitting four down each side but one will be on the bend of the bow. MMMmmm the eye is 15mm deep and is a lot to protrude from the strake.
All i can do to fit these is recess them into the strake, which is 20mm thick. Yep that gives 15mm to cut out and just 5mm
left. Eeee i am good at matchs lol.
Hey what can go wrong.................
Here is what i did first, i drilled a hole for a bolt to hold the strake back on the weak spot which will be left when the exess is cut out.
This SS M5 counter sunk bolt goes all the way through to the hull and the strake does so all held tight until i get the fender eye bolted in, infact it will stay in so in all four M5 bolts will be holding the strake down.
Then i just cut away wating to be smacked in the mush by a batten of Sapele lol.
Here once i chipped away you can see the bolt i used.
One down 7 to go, i mite round the outer corner yet a wee bit, just to make it...i dont know. i just faff to much.
Tomorrows job is to seal the timbers a bit more and then finish these eyes.
vas
Well-Known Member
Tomorrows job is to seal the timbers a bit more and then finish these eyes.
very good W!
glad to see you changed the rest of the screws holding the sapele to countersunk ones
V.
waynes world
Well-Known Member
very good W!
glad to see you changed the rest of the screws holding the sapele to countersunk ones
V.
I did plan on counter sunk in the first place, but then i had a load of button heads, for an extra £7 for some counter sunk i dont know what i was thinking, lets just say a blonde moment, not that i am blonde anymore...more bald moment lol.
TheOrs
Well-Known Member
Probably too late but could you drill two holes vertically downwards through the strake with, say 8mm drill bit and then three fore/aft hacksaw cuts. One to join the holes and two in from outside?
sarabande
Well-Known Member
each one of those fender eyes has a big smile underneath ! And deservedly so.
When's the launch party ?
(and I like the mid grey paint on the hull - so different from all the other blue and white jobs.....)
When's the launch party ?
(and I like the mid grey paint on the hull - so different from all the other blue and white jobs.....)
Greg2
Well-Known Member
Finally manage to catch up on this thread and boy am I impressed. Makes anything I have done on our various boats look like little more than tinkering! I look forward to following the project through to completion.
waynes world
Well-Known Member
Yes bit late now, only a few to be done, off to hospital today so will not get much time by time i get home and can see again
Will get the rest of the deck fitting done but for two front cleats need to order some.
Tell you what all the chippy work dont make the shoulders ache, not mcuh on wood work, not like welding, if you take to much off you can reweld it, not with wood work. Slowly slowly catchy monkey is the way to go.
each one of those fender eyes has a big smile underneath ! And deservedly so.
When's the launch party ?
(and I like the mid grey paint on the hull - so different from all the other blue and white jobs.....)
Launch i am planning for mid........`ish summer 2017, best get my back side in gear hey.
I had to laugh a little, the grey is the primer as i will not be painting it untill next spring now.
And sorry but this is the paint i got for it.
Well keeping popping in, lots to come, i didnt get much to show yesterday as mainly doing the fender eyes, take some time for me to do. Then a little all trim around the rear seat lockers and sealing wood again.
Going to get some 300grm CSM on way out this morning and PVA release blue for making some panel work. I just hope they sell catalyst on its own not just with resin , i cant see any on there web site, if not a 50 mile round trip to the other suppliers of GRP gear
waynes world
Well-Known Member
Not good being back at work, get little done Little done, but what has been done, all counts though.
I sealed around the top edge of the top strake with Sikalflex 291i, This just double;e measure to prevent leaks through the bolt holes. Easy job but messy as always with Sikaflex.
I fitted the trim for the hatchs and then after a few days to set cleaned back, one again Sikaflex 291i.
Then i thought i should finish of the wiring so i can line it out, Ah, well i would of but i ran out of wire. No big deal as there is still lots to do. I used 2mm for all the lighting and 3mm for the horn, search light and power points like TV and charge points for gadgets, yes i am not a gadget man but the grand kids are is so when the come the can charge there gadgets. aswell as T with her small lap top thingy.
The wiring is more than needed cross section wise but i would rather be safe than sorry, the volt drop at worst is 1.5% and that is for the horn and bilge pumps.
Wire dangling all over now,
Forgot about this bit, last week i gave the area below the anchor locker four 650grm combo laminations to beef it up.
I got some insulation boards again the other day as i want to make Zig a kennel and also to insulate the bow as now there will be no bulkhead at the front. A new set out is planned which will show as i go.
Trouble is got the wrong thickness of board, what a plonker, so i could`nt insulate this area yet.
One area i needed to do before i like out is the port hole fame and front windows. I started with the port hole, I have used 18mm marine ply to do a basic frame and this will be lined up to with the 6mm ply lining.
I had to remove all the bolts as they were to short to go through the 18mm ply frame. I need to seal this yet before i bolt it in properly.
But for that i have started to cut the lining out, a few sections for the bulkhead and two 8 foot section down the sides. I am using 6mm hardwood faced ply for the sides as it is better the fix to for the frame work for the seats/berths and heads/wet room.......i say wet room, i am trying to work out how to drain to a auto pump. I can find room in the bilge for a pump out unit so if i can find a good inline pump that will do.
It does feel good to be fitting it out at last, been a hell of a time to sort the rest out, and still more to do but that can be done in time when weather permits, the anchor locker needs finishing, and i need to stop faffing on what new cleats to get as the ones i have are not going to be up to the job really.
Little done, but what has been done, all counts though. I sealed around the top edge of the top strake with Sikalflex 291i, This just double;e measure to prevent leaks through the bolt holes. Easy job but messy as always with Sikaflex.
I fitted the trim for the hatchs and then after a few days to set cleaned back, one again Sikaflex 291i.
Then i thought i should finish of the wiring so i can line it out, Ah, well i would of but i ran out of wire. No big deal as there is still lots to do. I used 2mm for all the lighting and 3mm for the horn, search light and power points like TV and charge points for gadgets, yes i am not a gadget man but the grand kids are is so when the come the can charge there gadgets. aswell as T with her small lap top thingy.
The wiring is more than needed cross section wise but i would rather be safe than sorry, the volt drop at worst is 1.5% and that is for the horn and bilge pumps.
Wire dangling all over now,
Forgot about this bit, last week i gave the area below the anchor locker four 650grm combo laminations to beef it up.
I got some insulation boards again the other day as i want to make Zig a kennel and also to insulate the bow as now there will be no bulkhead at the front. A new set out is planned which will show as i go.
Trouble is got the wrong thickness of board, what a plonker, so i could`nt insulate this area yet.
One area i needed to do before i like out is the port hole fame and front windows. I started with the port hole, I have used 18mm marine ply to do a basic frame and this will be lined up to with the 6mm ply lining.
I had to remove all the bolts as they were to short to go through the 18mm ply frame. I need to seal this yet before i bolt it in properly.
But for that i have started to cut the lining out, a few sections for the bulkhead and two 8 foot section down the sides. I am using 6mm hardwood faced ply for the sides as it is better the fix to for the frame work for the seats/berths and heads/wet room.......i say wet room, i am trying to work out how to drain to a auto pump. I can find room in the bilge for a pump out unit so if i can find a good inline pump that will do.
It does feel good to be fitting it out at last, been a hell of a time to sort the rest out, and still more to do but that can be done in time when weather permits, the anchor locker needs finishing, and i need to stop faffing on what new cleats to get as the ones i have are not going to be up to the job really.
waynes world
Well-Known Member
Re: The plant pot
After weeks of faffing and thinking,,,, worrying i decided to get a set of these cleats, reason being i was concerned about the size/strength of the ones i got, infact that Member JFM on here gave me them FOC aswell, feel guilty not using them. Sorry JOF if you read this.
arrived the other day, quicker than it took me to choose the bloody things. Should be upto the job i think.
spreaders....big enough
These are the front cleats, the rear a a bit smaller as there isnt as much room, these are 10x5 inch and 3mm SS with 18mm marine ply, to be bedded down with Sikaflex 291i. i was going to use Fillite but Sikalfex is good enough, mite just have enough left
So to finish the weekends, as you have seen the cleats spreaders were done, but still need to drill them out to 12mm for easier fitting, gives a bit of space for the M10 bolts.
I have not glued/fixed the lining panels in place as yet as i need a new foam gun and cleaner then i can fill the gaps behind the lining.
This is how i find small profiles when cutting curves or angles for the lining.
Here you can see where the panel is short, the top right, it is 25mm short so what i do is.
Small piece of 6mm ply, drill a hole that will take a marker tip, 6mm hole will do here. And as you can see the marker just protrudes through to the other side.
The push the ply against the top and run along giving the cut line you need. Cut away and hey ho. easy profile tool.
Here as the sides are uneven due to the profile of the shell i decided to instead of using 25mm insulation board and have loads of cavities is to space out with hardwood and line out as wiht the usual ply, then drill a few 8mm holes and fill with expanding foam. holes every 4 or 6 inch will do the job, leave the hole open so then you can see that the foam has expaned properly. It has worked in the past for me, so should do again. just dont be shy on filling with foam.
As far as i got this weekend, a few more panels are made for the galley side but much the same as here. Oh yes and al wiring is done but for the gunnel lights, we are going to fit two down either side but thse can wait for now as the wire will be run from the berth lights.
After weeks of faffing and thinking,,,, worrying i decided to get a set of these cleats, reason being i was concerned about the size/strength of the ones i got, infact that Member JFM on here gave me them FOC aswell, feel guilty not using them. Sorry JOF if you read this.
arrived the other day, quicker than it took me to choose the bloody things. Should be upto the job i think.
spreaders....big enough
These are the front cleats, the rear a a bit smaller as there isnt as much room, these are 10x5 inch and 3mm SS with 18mm marine ply, to be bedded down with Sikaflex 291i. i was going to use Fillite but Sikalfex is good enough, mite just have enough left
So to finish the weekends, as you have seen the cleats spreaders were done, but still need to drill them out to 12mm for easier fitting, gives a bit of space for the M10 bolts.
I have not glued/fixed the lining panels in place as yet as i need a new foam gun and cleaner then i can fill the gaps behind the lining.
This is how i find small profiles when cutting curves or angles for the lining.
Here you can see where the panel is short, the top right, it is 25mm short so what i do is.
Small piece of 6mm ply, drill a hole that will take a marker tip, 6mm hole will do here. And as you can see the marker just protrudes through to the other side.
The push the ply against the top and run along giving the cut line you need. Cut away and hey ho. easy profile tool.
Here as the sides are uneven due to the profile of the shell i decided to instead of using 25mm insulation board and have loads of cavities is to space out with hardwood and line out as wiht the usual ply, then drill a few 8mm holes and fill with expanding foam. holes every 4 or 6 inch will do the job, leave the hole open so then you can see that the foam has expaned properly. It has worked in the past for me, so should do again. just dont be shy on filling with foam.
As far as i got this weekend, a few more panels are made for the galley side but much the same as here. Oh yes and al wiring is done but for the gunnel lights, we are going to fit two down either side but thse can wait for now as the wire will be run from the berth lights.
sarabande
Well-Known Member
Re: The plant pot
it's beginning to shape up; nice work. And all that insulation will make the boat very snug.
I have a feeling that you are adding quite bit of weight, and wonder if it is worth leaving a bit of space in the bilges, plus some reinforcement, in case you need to add a bit of ballast if she is a bit tender. Just in case...
it's beginning to shape up; nice work. And all that insulation will make the boat very snug.
I have a feeling that you are adding quite bit of weight, and wonder if it is worth leaving a bit of space in the bilges, plus some reinforcement, in case you need to add a bit of ballast if she is a bit tender. Just in case...
waynes world
Well-Known Member
Re: The plant pot
I am saving room for ballast if needed in the bow below the anchor locker and also there will be room under the seating in the bow end. I reckon i can fit a good maybe 80kg in the bow end alone. the rear i doubt will need ballast with the bigger engine and fitting out. I was told by an owner of one of these boats that to set it right and better handling they added around 250kg in ballast. Sounds a lot for a cruiser.
it's beginning to shape up; nice work. And all that insulation will make the boat very snug.
I have a feeling that you are adding quite bit of weight, and wonder if it is worth leaving a bit of space in the bilges, plus some reinforcement, in case you need to add a bit of ballast if she is a bit tender. Just in case...
I am saving room for ballast if needed in the bow below the anchor locker and also there will be room under the seating in the bow end. I reckon i can fit a good maybe 80kg in the bow end alone. the rear i doubt will need ballast with the bigger engine and fitting out. I was told by an owner of one of these boats that to set it right and better handling they added around 250kg in ballast. Sounds a lot for a cruiser.
sarabande
Well-Known Member
Re: The plant pot
very very very roughly the fag packet calc for TPI (tonnes per inch ) measure will give an increased draft of 4cm for an extra 250 kg of ballast.
very very very roughly the fag packet calc for TPI (tonnes per inch ) measure will give an increased draft of 4cm for an extra 250 kg of ballast.
