Buckingham 20 restoration, formerly Plant Pot
- Thread starter waynes world
- Start date
waynes world
Well-Known Member
Re: The plant pot
The yard I was using was great. Very quiet and little disturbances, great supply of good wood to go with. Problem is that it is 20 miles away.
Will have a week of work soon to get stuck in but the mean time i will do what I can. I will just hide under the deck when I see folk come buy
The yard I was using was great. Very quiet and little disturbances, great supply of good wood to go with. Problem is that it is 20 miles away.
Will have a week of work soon to get stuck in but the mean time i will do what I can. I will just hide under the deck when I see folk come buy
vas
Well-Known Member
Re: The plant pot
looks v.good W.,
couple of Qs
remind me what's the two black boxes one in the heads the other just opposite? Water tanks? Placed like that for symmetry and load distribution?
Also, nice to have all the plans in your head, but posting a sketch every now and again is not a bad idea, as it can help others contribute a bit
Joking, don't remember where you're putting the galley and how you organise the cabin overall.
Like the combo wall/cabinet, but have no idea of dimensions so where the bed goes etc...
Are you going to manage to have something similar (weightwise) on stbrd side to counterbalance the heads constuction?
cheers
V.
looks v.good W.,
couple of Qs
remind me what's the two black boxes one in the heads the other just opposite? Water tanks? Placed like that for symmetry and load distribution?
Also, nice to have all the plans in your head, but posting a sketch every now and again is not a bad idea, as it can help others contribute a bit
Joking, don't remember where you're putting the galley and how you organise the cabin overall.
Like the combo wall/cabinet, but have no idea of dimensions so where the bed goes etc...
Are you going to manage to have something similar (weightwise) on stbrd side to counterbalance the heads constuction?
cheers
V.
waynes world
Well-Known Member
Re: The plant pot
Hi Vas, I am sure i posted to your Q`s not long after you posted but they are not here now. Knowing me I posted in the wrong thread.
Anyway to answer
The two black boxes are fresh water tanks which are now as of this weekend linked together by a balance pipe.
As you say I have fitted them in that position to keep the weight low down and forward also I like symmetry
I still have to draw up a sketch of the fit out. In the storage cupboard will be the Propex HS2000E at the bottom below the Morco F-11EL. I like to keep all gas lines the as short as possible.
The Galley will be opposite the Heads to counter balance, The berths will be in the bow as the usual V berth. I am still deciding on making a bunk to go down the port side in case the grand kids decide to come.
I will see if i can manage a sketch on the laptop
Next update
This weekend i have done a bit of plumbing and lined out the Heads but for the water tank side. The floor will be laminated over for the wet room and drained by a pump under the read deck. This pump will also drain the water system as when needed in winter etc
The water pump is now under the cabin step where the batteries were intended to go. Now the two batteries will be going the other side of the lower bulkhead under the deck.
Here you can see the top horizontal pipe is the balance pipe joining the two tanks. This is to help filling the tanks from one deck filler.
The cabin step covers it just nicely.
Here is the feed to the heads sink and Morco boiler which I will be T`ing off to. The elbow fitting on the right will be replaced with a T fitting later. so i can go through the heads wall and up to the boiler.
All open ends in the pipe work have been blocked off with tissue for now so no dust or dirt gets in the system.
Spot the difference.
I forgot to add the drain for the water system. Easy done as I have yet to finish it all off yet. All joints will be tightened and tested before anything else goes ahead. Well but for the pie work to the galley sink.
I hope to get on with a little more lining out done so I can get the galley framed out this week. Once that is done i can move back over the cupboard and then the berths.
Hi Vas, I am sure i posted to your Q`s not long after you posted but they are not here now. Knowing me I posted in the wrong thread.
Anyway to answer
The two black boxes are fresh water tanks which are now as of this weekend linked together by a balance pipe.
As you say I have fitted them in that position to keep the weight low down and forward also I like symmetry
I still have to draw up a sketch of the fit out. In the storage cupboard will be the Propex HS2000E at the bottom below the Morco F-11EL. I like to keep all gas lines the as short as possible.
The Galley will be opposite the Heads to counter balance, The berths will be in the bow as the usual V berth. I am still deciding on making a bunk to go down the port side in case the grand kids decide to come.
I will see if i can manage a sketch on the laptop
Next update
This weekend i have done a bit of plumbing and lined out the Heads but for the water tank side. The floor will be laminated over for the wet room and drained by a pump under the read deck. This pump will also drain the water system as when needed in winter etc
The water pump is now under the cabin step where the batteries were intended to go. Now the two batteries will be going the other side of the lower bulkhead under the deck.
Here you can see the top horizontal pipe is the balance pipe joining the two tanks. This is to help filling the tanks from one deck filler.
The cabin step covers it just nicely.
Here is the feed to the heads sink and Morco boiler which I will be T`ing off to. The elbow fitting on the right will be replaced with a T fitting later. so i can go through the heads wall and up to the boiler.
All open ends in the pipe work have been blocked off with tissue for now so no dust or dirt gets in the system.
Spot the difference.
I forgot to add the drain for the water system. Easy done as I have yet to finish it all off yet. All joints will be tightened and tested before anything else goes ahead. Well but for the pie work to the galley sink.
I hope to get on with a little more lining out done so I can get the galley framed out this week. Once that is done i can move back over the cupboard and then the berths.
waynes world
Well-Known Member
Re: The plant pot
Last job was to first off to do a bit more lining out so I can get on with Galley. Again as before with the heads I pumped in expanding foam once the ply was fastend in place.
This time i used modesty blocks to help keep the ply from bowing under the pressure of the foam when it expands. Spaced about about 6inch apart when used with 5.5mm ply.
You can see here that I left the outer edge sticking out as later I will trim it back flush. Easier than faffing to get it all good now.
To keep the outer edge held up in place I jammed the panel up with a few off cuts of timber.
Once all panels are set in place just a mater of pumping the expanding foam the drilled holes.
To make sure there was plenty under the gunnel i removed the timber strut and applied the foam then jammed the strut back under.
This was after 5 mins and I wish I took a pic after 20 mins. Temps were low around 7deg ambient and i was unsure so I used a full tin, I can say I didnt need it, half would of done. In low temps the foam expands less and slower. A slight miscalculation.
I left the foam to set over night then just trimmed back with a knife and sharpened wall paper scraper so then I could get on with the galley frame work.
Here the oven is in place so the starboard berth has a 5` 6 " length. I am going to look at it again this weekend as i am tempted to move the oven back by about 300mm to gain ore berth length, we will see.
The cupboard will be cut back to follow the flow of the galley now. That is the reason i didnt fix it in place last week.
The reason for moving the oven back towards the stern is the head room stops half way over the oven so it is going to be a pain to cook etc.
The middle of the over will be in the middle of the upright between the windows where there is ( will be ) a down light.
I am trying to decide on what matrials to use for the galley storage and work top. At first it was Sapele unit and work top but as I am using a veneered Sapele ply to clad the Heads and cupboard I think it will be to much so we then went with a Sapele work top with a off cream colour ( Coffee maybe ) type for the galley unit and above the worktop.
One other job I did the other day was remove the Houdini Hatch as it started to leak again. I have taken it apart ready to be cleaned up and resealed. I just need to order the new seals now, I forgot to do it the other day with all faffing about with this and that.
I will give a wright up when i do this of how i did it as most folk say it is not possible. We will see how i go, if I manage it i will show.
I used some DPM and taped it in place to keep it all dry.
Another job a did a week or so ago. I do forget what i have done with all these bits and bobs to do.
Not a big job but i had a go with a gas strut on the cabin door top section. This a 120n strut and it works ok`ish just not enough for me so i will be getting a 150n and in 316 stainless steel. This one is a cheap one of my fish tank lid that I had spare. now more than a few quid. A SS one is around £40. I must be mad lol.
After work today i near finished the rear deck locker hatch trim. I need to drill and fit them now. This weekends job along with the galley to be looked at more.
Last job was to first off to do a bit more lining out so I can get on with Galley. Again as before with the heads I pumped in expanding foam once the ply was fastend in place.
This time i used modesty blocks to help keep the ply from bowing under the pressure of the foam when it expands. Spaced about about 6inch apart when used with 5.5mm ply.
You can see here that I left the outer edge sticking out as later I will trim it back flush. Easier than faffing to get it all good now.
To keep the outer edge held up in place I jammed the panel up with a few off cuts of timber.
Once all panels are set in place just a mater of pumping the expanding foam the drilled holes.
To make sure there was plenty under the gunnel i removed the timber strut and applied the foam then jammed the strut back under.
This was after 5 mins and I wish I took a pic after 20 mins. Temps were low around 7deg ambient and i was unsure so I used a full tin, I can say I didnt need it, half would of done. In low temps the foam expands less and slower. A slight miscalculation.
I left the foam to set over night then just trimmed back with a knife and sharpened wall paper scraper so then I could get on with the galley frame work.
Here the oven is in place so the starboard berth has a 5` 6 " length. I am going to look at it again this weekend as i am tempted to move the oven back by about 300mm to gain ore berth length, we will see.
The cupboard will be cut back to follow the flow of the galley now. That is the reason i didnt fix it in place last week.
The reason for moving the oven back towards the stern is the head room stops half way over the oven so it is going to be a pain to cook etc.
The middle of the over will be in the middle of the upright between the windows where there is ( will be ) a down light.
I am trying to decide on what matrials to use for the galley storage and work top. At first it was Sapele unit and work top but as I am using a veneered Sapele ply to clad the Heads and cupboard I think it will be to much so we then went with a Sapele work top with a off cream colour ( Coffee maybe ) type for the galley unit and above the worktop.
One other job I did the other day was remove the Houdini Hatch as it started to leak again. I have taken it apart ready to be cleaned up and resealed. I just need to order the new seals now, I forgot to do it the other day with all faffing about with this and that.
I will give a wright up when i do this of how i did it as most folk say it is not possible. We will see how i go, if I manage it i will show.
I used some DPM and taped it in place to keep it all dry.
Another job a did a week or so ago. I do forget what i have done with all these bits and bobs to do.
Not a big job but i had a go with a gas strut on the cabin door top section. This a 120n strut and it works ok`ish just not enough for me so i will be getting a 150n and in 316 stainless steel. This one is a cheap one of my fish tank lid that I had spare. now more than a few quid. A SS one is around £40. I must be mad lol.
After work today i near finished the rear deck locker hatch trim. I need to drill and fit them now. This weekends job along with the galley to be looked at more.
sarabande
Well-Known Member
Re: The plant pot
Hey real progress ! Neat work.
Are you going to gimbal the oven ? It's one hell of an envious device for a small boat. Are you expecting lots of people for dinner ?
How are you going to trim the excess ply in the top pic please ? Electric plane or something more skilled and craftsmanlike
Hey real progress ! Neat work.
Are you going to gimbal the oven ? It's one hell of an envious device for a small boat. Are you expecting lots of people for dinner ?
How are you going to trim the excess ply in the top pic please ? Electric plane or something more skilled and craftsmanlike
waynes world
Well-Known Member
Re: The plant pot
I have not decided on a gimbal or bracket fitting yet for the oven. I like the idea of an oven as we like to make enchiladas and Pizzas
The edges of the ply were just trimmed with a saw and then a quick sand to smooth it more if that is craftsman like lol
It does not need to be pritty as it is going to be clad over.
Today`s jobs was to finish the locker frames first. I have been meaning to do this for months now. And still not finished as now instead of using 18mm marine ply I am going to make a sheet of 6mm GRP and use that, good job there is on rush.
Now then the galley,
As I said in the last update I wanted to move the oven back a little, well by about 12 inch. Make s alot of difference as now the seating is a lot better and the berth near 6`6" long.
Time to re`sett the battens. Just a matter to move the end battens back, this gives more of a curve to the worktop now , not a bad thing hey Richard
First the top batten
I used some long battens to check the curve of all the horizontals were the same.
Then a case of moving the oven base over.
The base needed a trim back a little but I cut a bit more for more ventilation for the oven.
Underneath will be storage.
Once the oven was in situ i used some 6mm ply to make a template for whn i decide on the work top, It is still planned to use Sapele.
The sink was next to mark out for the fitting. Easy bit as just a matter to decide where ( not that there is much choice ) then drawing around the sink rim and 12mm less for the rim to sit on.
Good work bench the new rear deck. I need to stop cutting into it though duh
Drill first for the Jigsaw blade to fit.
Steady as you go, better to cut less of if you are not to good with a Jigsaw. Can always trim more off but not add more on
And there we go, sink in situ now feeling better about this more and more now.
Hey real progress ! Neat work.
Are you going to gimbal the oven ? It's one hell of an envious device for a small boat. Are you expecting lots of people for dinner ?
How are you going to trim the excess ply in the top pic please ? Electric plane or something more skilled and craftsmanlike
I have not decided on a gimbal or bracket fitting yet for the oven. I like the idea of an oven as we like to make enchiladas and Pizzas
The edges of the ply were just trimmed with a saw and then a quick sand to smooth it more if that is craftsman like lol
It does not need to be pritty as it is going to be clad over.
Today`s jobs was to finish the locker frames first. I have been meaning to do this for months now. And still not finished as now instead of using 18mm marine ply I am going to make a sheet of 6mm GRP and use that, good job there is on rush.
Now then the galley,
As I said in the last update I wanted to move the oven back a little, well by about 12 inch. Make s alot of difference as now the seating is a lot better and the berth near 6`6" long.
Time to re`sett the battens. Just a matter to move the end battens back, this gives more of a curve to the worktop now , not a bad thing hey Richard
First the top batten
I used some long battens to check the curve of all the horizontals were the same.
Then a case of moving the oven base over.
The base needed a trim back a little but I cut a bit more for more ventilation for the oven.
Underneath will be storage.
Once the oven was in situ i used some 6mm ply to make a template for whn i decide on the work top, It is still planned to use Sapele.
The sink was next to mark out for the fitting. Easy bit as just a matter to decide where ( not that there is much choice ) then drawing around the sink rim and 12mm less for the rim to sit on.
Good work bench the new rear deck. I need to stop cutting into it though duh
Drill first for the Jigsaw blade to fit.
Steady as you go, better to cut less of if you are not to good with a Jigsaw. Can always trim more off but not add more on
And there we go, sink in situ now
feeling better about this more and more now.
waynes world
Well-Known Member
Re: The plant pot
I finished early as my knee and hands were killing me, i managed to get the galley storage lined out.
The unit is lined with 4mm ply and the rear panel is removable in case I need to the water tank access hatch.
One the left side of the oven I an going to add a folding worktop in case more work space is needed. A lift up and slide down type.
The main cupboard is ok where it is as I was going to angle it back a little for a more wider walk through. I may well decide different by tomorrow so we will see.
The right hand side of the worktop up to the bulkhead will be for cutlery and plate storage. That could be tomorrows job.
I finished early as my knee and hands were killing me, i managed to get the galley storage lined out.
The unit is lined with 4mm ply and the rear panel is removable in case I need to the water tank access hatch.
One the left side of the oven I an going to add a folding worktop in case more work space is needed. A lift up and slide down type.
The main cupboard is ok where it is as I was going to angle it back a little for a more wider walk through. I may well decide different by tomorrow so we will see.
The right hand side of the worktop up to the bulkhead will be for cutlery and plate storage. That could be tomorrows job.
sarabande
Well-Known Member
Re: The plant pot
errr, I am wondering about the recommended minimum distance of combustible material round the stove. I had to put fireproof board around the stove enclosure for the Boat Safety Scheme. Perhaps a stainless or ali liner might be OK. At present it looks a bit tight.
I'll try and find the Regs.
The curve is excellent BTW.
errr, I am wondering about the recommended minimum distance of combustible material round the stove. I had to put fireproof board around the stove enclosure for the Boat Safety Scheme. Perhaps a stainless or ali liner might be OK. At present it looks a bit tight.
I'll try and find the Regs.
The curve is excellent BTW.
waynes world
Well-Known Member
Re: The plant pot
It is within fitting specs, it needs 40mm at the rear, which it has the spacer fitting for that attached to the rear of the oven to space it. The side is 20mm but I went with 25mm. I have a galvanized case/surround that I cold also use yet. Above the stove need 600mm, that is the reason it is low below the gunnel to get the above space needed.
I like the curve also
It is within fitting specs, it needs 40mm at the rear, which it has the spacer fitting for that attached to the rear of the oven to space it. The side is 20mm but I went with 25mm. I have a galvanized case/surround that I cold also use yet. Above the stove need 600mm, that is the reason it is low below the gunnel to get the above space needed.
I like the curve also
vas
Well-Known Member
Re: The plant pot
nice work W,
like the curve and layout, would try and create a SS lined surround for the hob and elevate it to the window frame plane, line it on the bench side with whatever you use on splash surface.
Other than the obvious reasons, I think it would help "separate" to the eye the curved worksurface and cabinet doors underneath to the straight and parallel to the hull side oven/hob thing. Not easy to describe I know, but stuck with lots of work work atm so no time for proper sketches
cheers
V.
nice work W,
like the curve and layout, would try and create a SS lined surround for the hob and elevate it to the window frame plane, line it on the bench side with whatever you use on splash surface.
Other than the obvious reasons, I think it would help "separate" to the eye the curved worksurface and cabinet doors underneath to the straight and parallel to the hull side oven/hob thing. Not easy to describe I know, but stuck with lots of work work atm so no time for proper sketches
cheers
V.
waynes world
Well-Known Member
Re: The plant pot
Hi V ,
The first design was to have the oven as you mention above. I understand your description in that.
I have to have the oven that low as this is for the spec`s on fitting this type of oven. The 600mm clearance above the oven is the requirement, this is 610mm. As for the SS surround, as said earlier i do have one that came off this boat, about the only thing left after the strip out that is usable. Just not fitted it yet.
The 610mm clearance above the oven Is to the lower edge which is just over hanging the oven by about 100mm. But now I have moved the oven to the right I do have maybe another 120mm in clearance. So if i do raise the oven it will not be within the fitting specs.be
Hi V ,
The first design was to have the oven as you mention above. I understand your description in that.
I have to have the oven that low as this is for the spec`s on fitting this type of oven. The 600mm clearance above the oven is the requirement, this is 610mm. As for the SS surround, as said earlier i do have one that came off this boat, about the only thing left after the strip out that is usable. Just not fitted it yet.
The 610mm clearance above the oven Is to the lower edge which is just over hanging the oven by about 100mm. But now I have moved the oven to the right I do have maybe another 120mm in clearance. So if i do raise the oven it will not be within the fitting specs.be
vas
Well-Known Member
Re: The plant pot
OK, my bad,
didn't mean raising the oven itself, just creating a protective surrounding up to the lower sill of the window out of ply clad on the inside with SS, so not really different to what you're thinking of doing by reusing this SS surround!
I know of a 600mm clearance to the extractor fan on a house installation, no idea on BS specs re boats, but seems similar and reasonable.
looking forward to the next installment
cheers
V.
OK, my bad,
didn't mean raising the oven itself, just creating a protective surrounding up to the lower sill of the window out of ply clad on the inside with SS, so not really different to what you're thinking of doing by reusing this SS surround!
I know of a 600mm clearance to the extractor fan on a house installation, no idea on BS specs re boats, but seems similar and reasonable.
looking forward to the next installment
cheers
V.
waynes world
Well-Known Member
Re: The plant pot
My bad also as I didnt read your reply properly lol. Feel that tired ( my excuse ) I am still in bed.
I agree with the idea of raising the sides of the oven. I was pondering on what to do there. A nice SS steel splash back to the above light and around the oven. This will separate the galley from the cabin just nice.
This is all sounding a bit OTT now lol.
OK, my bad,
didn't mean raising the oven itself, just creating a protective surrounding up to the lower sill of the window out of ply clad on the inside with SS, so not really different to what you're thinking of doing by reusing this SS surround!
I know of a 600mm clearance to the extractor fan on a house installation, no idea on BS specs re boats, but seems similar and reasonable.
looking forward to the next installment
cheers
V.
My bad also as I didnt read your reply properly lol. Feel that tired ( my excuse
) I am still in bed. I agree with the idea of raising the sides of the oven. I was pondering on what to do there. A nice SS steel splash back to the above light and around the oven. This will separate the galley from the cabin just nice.
This is all sounding a bit OTT now lol.
vas
Well-Known Member
Re: The plant pot
no excuses, cannot be tired, just get on with the work and no drinking and working! (or hide the strongbow can when taking pics )
I don't think a side panel separating the oven from the rest of the cabin is OTT, not to mention that you've gone OTT on many other occasions...
OOPS, I mean a side panel up to window sill level of course!
BTW, how are you going to line the galley and rest of the cabin ply? I followed the existing method on MiToS just playing with colours of the leatherette thing and cannot say I'm particularly happy having leatherette on 5mm foam around the galley and the ceiling above. Mind the original one that I replaced just had two or three small spots (presumably from boiling oil on the ceiling slats after 35yrs) so you should be fine if you choose such materials
FWIW, after cooking a few curries on board over the last couple of seasons, it's still spotless.
cheers
V.
My bad also as I didnt read your reply properly lol. Feel that tired ( my excuse
I agree with the idea of raising the sides of the oven. I was pondering on what to do there. A nice SS steel splash back to the above light and around the oven. This will separate the galley from the cabin just nice.
This is all sounding a bit OTT now lol.
no excuses, cannot be tired, just get on with the work and no drinking and working! (or hide the strongbow can when taking pics
)I don't think a side panel separating the oven from the rest of the cabin is OTT, not to mention that you've gone OTT on many other occasions...
OOPS, I mean a side panel up to window sill level of course!
BTW, how are you going to line the galley and rest of the cabin ply? I followed the existing method on MiToS just playing with colours of the leatherette thing and cannot say I'm particularly happy having leatherette on 5mm foam around the galley and the ceiling above. Mind the original one that I replaced just had two or three small spots (presumably from boiling oil on the ceiling slats after 35yrs) so you should be fine if you choose such materials
FWIW, after cooking a few curries on board over the last couple of seasons, it's still spotless.
cheers
V.
Last edited:
waynes world
Well-Known Member
Re: The plant pot
The OTT bit was about the SS splash back from the hob and all the way up the back to the top. Will be smart though I just went that bit further with your idea there
I have to say though that I have gone OTT on a lot of this build but hey ho, I love it ( T is happy with it, although she thinks I am mad ) cost aside I am going to be happy with it. This is what this build is about to me and building what I want and how I want it to be. The Sapele work top alone is around £100, still shopping for a better price. I have thought about veneering my own 18mm ply sheet or getting one already done.
I am looking at using a Formica sheet of undecided colour yet for the lining of the galley. It is nice and thin and lightweight, this will be used for the galley storage cupboard also.
This is the Sapele type
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SEPELE-WO...442408?hash=item1a2441cf68:g:ItwAAOSwGvhUIGbb
The rest of the cabin will be lined over with this type of material. Again not decided on colour.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Van-Campe...hash=item2a38190b5b:m:mx0YLisxydSRmphe5htYw-g
One thing I will be doing is to cut out the lower edge/area where the cabin top drops down from galley to cabin, just the corner/edge of 75mm wide and 450mm wide, remove e insulation and fill back up with a med/hard foam and line over with leatherette.
My head is so scared and sore with keep banging my head on it No fun picking splinters out lol. Either pad it or ware a hard hat
Now I need to get out and do a bit.......darn it think I have no Bow left
i will settle for a brew
no excuses, cannot be tired, just get on with the work and no drinking and working! (or hide the strongbow can when taking pics
I don't think a side panel separating the oven from the rest of the cabin is OTT, not to mention that you've gone OTT on many other occasions...
OOPS, I mean a side panel up to window sill level of course!
BTW, how are you going to line the galley and rest of the cabin ply? I followed the existing method on MiToS just playing with colours of the leatherette thing and cannot say I'm particularly happy having leatherette on 5mm foam around the galley and the ceiling above. Mind the original one that I replaced just had two or three small spots (presumably from boiling oil on the ceiling slats after 35yrs) so you should be fine if you choose such materials
FWIW, after cooking a few curries on board over the last couple of seasons, it's still spotless.
cheers
V.
The OTT bit was about the SS splash back from the hob and all the way up the back to the top. Will be smart though
I just went that bit further with your idea there I have to say though that I have gone OTT on a lot of this build but hey ho, I love it
( T is happy with it, although she thinks I am mad ) cost aside I am going to be happy with it. This is what this build is about to me and building what I want and how I want it to be. The Sapele work top alone is around £100, still shopping for a better price. I have thought about veneering my own 18mm ply sheet or getting one already done. I am looking at using a Formica sheet of undecided colour yet for the lining of the galley. It is nice and thin and lightweight, this will be used for the galley storage cupboard also.
This is the Sapele type
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SEPELE-WO...442408?hash=item1a2441cf68:g:ItwAAOSwGvhUIGbb
The rest of the cabin will be lined over with this type of material. Again not decided on colour.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Van-Campe...hash=item2a38190b5b:m:mx0YLisxydSRmphe5htYw-g
One thing I will be doing is to cut out the lower edge/area where the cabin top drops down from galley to cabin, just the corner/edge of 75mm wide and 450mm wide, remove e insulation and fill back up with a med/hard foam and line over with leatherette.
My head is so scared and sore with keep banging my head on it No fun picking splinters out lol. Either pad it or ware a hard hat
Now I need to get out and do a bit.......darn it think I have no Bow left
i will settle for a brew
waynes world
Well-Known Member
Re: The plant pot
After a long naff day at work I am now chilling out, no work being done on the boat tonight or for the next few weeks...if i can help it. Have to admit it got me down this weekend with the bloody leak in the cabin top again. I though I had sorted it but nope.
It is dripping from where the new hatch surround meets the old aperture. I have got an idea to try and find where it is coming in by working section by section I will use DPM sheet and gaffer tape a few square foot at a time over the cabin top to help narrow down the area until I find the problem.
I have a feeling it is the area behind the hatch, if I find it is there, infact where ever it is and I can pinpoint it ( unlikely ) I will fill it as per usual. If it is not possible to pinpoint the hole then I will Flowcoat the whole area. Some thing i was not wanting to do as it is a long tedious job.
One excuse for resting from doing the boat is this Saturday me and T are off for a near 600 mile drive to collect the next project from Grays London area. And to stop off at a mates house as he has been an amazing chap and donated an engine for the boat. It is a Yam 9.9 which are good but it smokes on start up then settles after a while.
Now this is all the bits I have done.
The Houdini seals have failed, i tried Creeping Crack a good few times but it didnt last so it is a choice of a new one ( at new price I think not ) or find another type to fit which is the 50x50. there area few types around but all expensive.
First choice is the try to reseal it. Easy part is disassembling it. A few clamps to spread the frame. Not to much though as you dont want to buckle it but just enough to get the glass out.
Wedge it open then spread the other way
Easy.....once I got my finger from trapping it between the frame and glass duh
The frame will stay open a little but as said need to be careful not to buckle it.
lots of small ally screws to remove carefully. One of the hinges is all that hold the frame together.
This is the expensive seal at £35 but there are others that can be used. This wasnt in bad knick but still I removed it and will get a new one.
Once the glass seal is removed the channel will need cleaning out. A small wire wheel in a drill does the job perfic
Clean the frame and glass with acetone
I have missed out the disaster I had with the using a new U section rubber seal as it was not going to plan at all. The seal would not stay in place so nothing to lose I spaced out the frame with 4mm SS screws cut down. This keeps the glass central when the frame is closed back up.
Pigin nora, cant find the rest of my pics for the rest of this.
Well to explain, a blob of sealant to hold the spacers in place, two each side in the channel. Fill the channel with sealant and slide the glass in. messy but if you use enough sealant I am sure it will work.
I sat it on a tub and pushed down the frame onto the glass, not a lot but enough the push out a little sealant to make sure it is all covered.
I will leave it to set for a few days then trim back and clean back with a Stanley blade.
I may well trim it tomorrow. An idea to see if it leaks now is to set it to one side and fill it to the brim with water and see if it seeps through over a week.
Now then the galley. I had to make some adjustments to the oven casing as I was going to by a sheet of brushed SS to line out. I decided to be a tight git and use the one that came off the boat when I ripped it out. yes something was salvageable. If it wasnt aluminium I dont think of would of made the years sat in the field though.
It has a spacing in 20mm to the casing then a further 12mm to the wooden case behind the ally case. The 40mm at rear from the built in spacer.
Plenty of all round ventilation at the bottom.
It will not need a gimbal kit so I will be fixing it down with the brackets to fix solid.
I will be still getting some SS sheet to make a riser around the hob up to the gunnel and back part of that will go all the way up between the windows to the eyeball down light. A splash back in all effects.
The only other thing I had a go at is making a Bow point. I want to do it from SS and build in a Bow roller. That didnt go to well as the 4mm ply I was using to make the template kept on breaking so I gave that up for now.
So thats about it for now.
After a long naff day at work I am now chilling out, no work being done on the boat tonight or for the next few weeks...if i can help it. Have to admit it got me down this weekend with the bloody leak in the cabin top again. I though I had sorted it but nope.
It is dripping from where the new hatch surround meets the old aperture. I have got an idea to try and find where it is coming in by working section by section I will use DPM sheet and gaffer tape a few square foot at a time over the cabin top to help narrow down the area until I find the problem.
I have a feeling it is the area behind the hatch, if I find it is there, infact where ever it is and I can pinpoint it ( unlikely ) I will fill it as per usual. If it is not possible to pinpoint the hole then I will Flowcoat the whole area. Some thing i was not wanting to do as it is a long tedious job.
One excuse for resting from doing the boat is this Saturday me and T are off for a near 600 mile drive to collect the next project from Grays London area. And to stop off at a mates house as he has been an amazing chap and donated an engine for the boat. It is a Yam 9.9 which are good but it smokes on start up then settles after a while.
Now this is all the bits I have done.
The Houdini seals have failed, i tried Creeping Crack a good few times but it didnt last so it is a choice of a new one ( at new price I think not ) or find another type to fit which is the 50x50. there area few types around but all expensive.
First choice is the try to reseal it. Easy part is disassembling it. A few clamps to spread the frame. Not to much though as you dont want to buckle it but just enough to get the glass out.
Wedge it open then spread the other way
Easy.....once I got my finger from trapping it between the frame and glass duh
The frame will stay open a little but as said need to be careful not to buckle it.
lots of small ally screws to remove carefully. One of the hinges is all that hold the frame together.
This is the expensive seal at £35 but there are others that can be used. This wasnt in bad knick but still I removed it and will get a new one.
Once the glass seal is removed the channel will need cleaning out. A small wire wheel in a drill does the job perfic
Clean the frame and glass with acetone
I have missed out the disaster I had with the using a new U section rubber seal as it was not going to plan at all. The seal would not stay in place so nothing to lose I spaced out the frame with 4mm SS screws cut down. This keeps the glass central when the frame is closed back up.
Pigin nora, cant find the rest of my pics for the rest of this.
Well to explain, a blob of sealant to hold the spacers in place, two each side in the channel. Fill the channel with sealant and slide the glass in. messy but if you use enough sealant I am sure it will work.
I sat it on a tub and pushed down the frame onto the glass, not a lot but enough the push out a little sealant to make sure it is all covered.
I will leave it to set for a few days then trim back and clean back with a Stanley blade.
I may well trim it tomorrow. An idea to see if it leaks now is to set it to one side and fill it to the brim with water and see if it seeps through over a week.
Now then the galley. I had to make some adjustments to the oven casing as I was going to by a sheet of brushed SS to line out. I decided to be a tight git and use the one that came off the boat when I ripped it out. yes something was salvageable. If it wasnt aluminium I dont think of would of made the years sat in the field though.
It has a spacing in 20mm to the casing then a further 12mm to the wooden case behind the ally case. The 40mm at rear from the built in spacer.
Plenty of all round ventilation at the bottom.
It will not need a gimbal kit so I will be fixing it down with the brackets to fix solid.
I will be still getting some SS sheet to make a riser around the hob up to the gunnel and back part of that will go all the way up between the windows to the eyeball down light. A splash back in all effects.
The only other thing I had a go at is making a Bow point. I want to do it from SS and build in a Bow roller. That didnt go to well as the 4mm ply I was using to make the template kept on breaking so I gave that up for now.
So thats about it for now.
oGaryo
Well-Known Member
Re: The plant pot
I've been following this thread since its start and really enjoying it but I don;t appear to be able to view the pictures over the last few pages.. all other pictures I can still see.. any idea what might be causing it?
I've been following this thread since its start and really enjoying it but I don;t appear to be able to view the pictures over the last few pages.. all other pictures I can still see.. any idea what might be causing it?
waynes world
Well-Known Member
Re: The plant pot
Not sure there as I am using postimage to download the pictures. still.
I just checked the pictures on page 18 and they are downloaded with postimage as the last few pages.
Sorry I am not the best with IT.
Anybody have an idea what is wrong?
Are other folk having trouble?
Not sure there as I am using postimage to download the pictures. still.
I just checked the pictures on page 18 and they are downloaded with postimage as the last few pages.
Sorry I am not the best with IT.
Anybody have an idea what is wrong?
Are other folk having trouble?
mlines
Well-Known Member
Re: The plant pot
Pictures are fine for me
Pictures are fine for me
