Bronze prop antifouling

GrahamM376

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Is there any further consensus or not on the protection for bronze propellors? I have just fitted a Brunton Autoprop to my boat, and asked Bruntons for their advice: alas whilst on other matters they've been very helpful, on this they were non committal. I wanted to apply primer and then Trilux. Can this be applied to bronze? Even on Internationals website it was hard to get definitive advice.

Darglow said definitely NOT to use any copper based antifoul on Featherstreams.
 

Halo

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What is brick cleaner?
Best regards
Jens, Denmark

Hi Jens
It is a commercial product sold in Do It Yourself type shops in the UK. It is used for cleaning wall bricks - especially those which have formed a layer of white scale or efflourescence over many years.
It is typically sold in 2.5 or 5 litre plastic containers
Chemically I think it is a dilute solution of Hydrochloric acid (HCl) which acts to dissolve the alkali or basic calcium type of scale
It really is amazing on bronze props and allows me to retunr mine to a mirror finish with very little effort over the winter
Martin
 

jwilson

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I am a little puzzled why you should not use a copper-based AF on a bronze prop. Will contact with copper cause dezincification of the bronze, which is the usual problem with old props? I don't think so, but I have never had a chemistry lesson in my life.

The stuff Vyv Cox uses looks good, but I seem to have good results from a couple of thin coats of zinc-rich primer followed by just antifouling the prop (and the bronze skin fittings) with the same copper-based AF as the rest of the hull. Sailing yacht, so not a fast-spinning powerboat prop, which I know needs polishing to mirror.
 

Tranona

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I am a little puzzled why you should not use a copper-based AF on a bronze prop. Will contact with copper cause dezincification of the bronze, which is the usual problem with old props? I don't think so, but I have never had a chemistry lesson in my life.

The prop he was referring to has stainless steel (316) blades, so not relevant to this discussion.
 

vyv_cox

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I am a little puzzled why you should not use a copper-based AF on a bronze prop. Will contact with copper cause dezincification of the bronze, which is the usual problem with old props? I don't think so, but I have never had a chemistry lesson in my life.

It has been suggested many times that copper plating a prop should A/F it for life. It seems sensible and quite a few have tried it but almost nobody seems to have done it successfully. I suspect that the hardness of a pure copper coating, something like 60 Vickers, means that its erosion resistance would be very low, giving it a very short life. I don't know whether it is possible to plate with copper-nickel, which has good antifouling properties. Its erosion resistance is far better than that of copper, although that is not great either when compared with the brass of most propellers.
 
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Hi Jens
It is a commercial product sold in Do It Yourself type shops in the UK. It is used for cleaning wall bricks - especially those which have formed a layer of white scale or efflourescence over many years.
It is typically sold in 2.5 or 5 litre plastic containers
Chemically I think it is a dilute solution of Hydrochloric acid (HCl) which acts to dissolve the alkali or basic calcium type of scale
It really is amazing on bronze props and allows me to retunr mine to a mirror finish with very little effort over the winter
Martin

How long do you leave that on for for it to work?

Slowboat recommended grate blacking last time & that's what I shall try in the spring.
 

Halo

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How long do you leave that on for for it to work?

Slowboat recommended grate blacking last time & that's what I shall try in the spring.

I just watch it untill it stops fizzing and then rinse the prop with lots of water
Took about 10 minutes last time

Grate blacking is for protection I think. This assumes a bare bronze metal prop being proptected by a zinc anode only and then cleaned up at the end of the season
 
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