newWave
Well-Known Member
It is always possible to recess the glass and put the teak grating on top.
Remove the grate when enyoing the view down and presto.
Remove the grate when enyoing the view down and presto.
Boat in build pics (2013 Fairline Squadron 78)
- Thread starter jfm
- Start date
Neil_Y
Well-Known Member
Just get a mini sub, much easier
BartW
Well-Known Member
when the platform is just above the water surface, during a light swell,
the waves push very hard on the platform,
then you need these holes to pass the water so that the forces on the platform are reduced,
same when lifting the platform under water, or bringing it down in the water.
the idea of the window will not work very well imho.
for good visibilaty water needs to be against the bottom side of the window,
and no water on the top side
this is very difficult to acheeve, wont happen for long, ...water going over the platform.
nice idea though
I've a bit of experience myself now
John100156
Well-Known Member
Just get a mini sub, much easier
The chap in white is adjusting the methane vent valve, apparently when new people try out this vessel for the first time it's necessary, just in case someone strikes Match-3
davids0865
Well-Known Member
Posted by JFM: "I have never owned (or much wanted) a Porsche 911 "
Good, cos when you do the Boxter S is a better car anyway
or Cayman if you need a hardtop
Good, cos when you do the Boxter S is a better car anyway
or Cayman if you need a hardtop
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MapisM
Well-Known Member
+2.
It works nicely on a glass bottom boat, but it's a mission impossible on a swim platform.
Teak grating is the only logical choice.
I would even consider that for the whole platform surface, rather than just those 4 panels.
Of course structural "stringers" of some sort would be necessary under the grating, to get a proper strength and stiffness, but the final result would be both more effective from a functional viewpoint, and also more elegant and "clean", imho.
rafiki_
Well-Known Member
when the platform is just above the water surface, during a light swell,
the waves push very hard on the platform,
then you need these holes to pass the water so that the forces on the platform are reduced,
same when lifting the platform under water, or bringing it down in the water.
the idea of the window will not work very well imho.
for good visibilaty water needs to be against the bottom side of the window,
and no water on the top side
this is very difficult to acheeve, wont happen for long, ...water going over the platform.
nice idea though
I've a bit of experience myself now
Thanks Bart, I've got it now. I hadn't considered the stationary scenario.
Danchc
Active Member
I had the idea for the window in the swimming platform some time ago, and thought about it a certain amount, but did not put details on my suggestion (thinking it would be too late).
The idea is that the platform is several inches thick, the bottom is glass and the top is deck grating. Lift the grating to view, replace it to stand on.
The only issue is of drainage for water that gets on top of the glass without the drainage holes allowing water in when lowered. But this is a minor engineering problem compared to many of the modifications you are having done. Side slots that open when raising, but close when lowering would probably be suitable.
Replacing the holes with glass might pose a few problems, but again, not rocket science.
As for being slippery, simple solutions for simple problems. Use a shower mat. Easily cleaned, easily replaced, numerous designs available and nice and simple.
The idea is that the platform is several inches thick, the bottom is glass and the top is deck grating. Lift the grating to view, replace it to stand on.
The only issue is of drainage for water that gets on top of the glass without the drainage holes allowing water in when lowered. But this is a minor engineering problem compared to many of the modifications you are having done. Side slots that open when raising, but close when lowering would probably be suitable.
Replacing the holes with glass might pose a few problems, but again, not rocket science.
As for being slippery, simple solutions for simple problems. Use a shower mat. Easily cleaned, easily replaced, numerous designs available and nice and simple.
jfm
Well-Known Member
When it's under water, for playing or tender recovery, and there is a swell, the load on the lifting mechanism is a function of drag of the platform as it moves (mostly up/down) thru the water. The lifting mechanism would love it if the platofrm were open ladder construction
Separately, thinking about it some more, the glass-bottom-boat view of the sea will never work, will it. For it to work, the bottom face of the glass has to be underwater and the top face in air, which will virtually never happen. You'd have to recess the glass down well below the plane of the top teak surface, which would be a bit rubbish. Back to drawing board...
EDIT - I wrote that without reading the other replies - sorry, I see that other people have already explained all this
Glass bottom boat needs a glass panel then. I don't fancy it on the mother ship and it would kill re-sale price, but I'd happily put a glass panel in a tender becuase even if it didn't work you can re-hull a tender for a few £thousand. Perhaps 2 glass square windows, either side of the keel, in front of the steering console. About 400mm square. Cut the holes, get a GRP shop to create GRP recessed flanges, and bond the glass in flush (using anti-luddite glue
), then trim the inside with a GRP square-polo-mint liner to make it all look neat. Maybe drop-in teak gratings on the top for when you are lugging diver gear and shopping. Job down
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vas
Well-Known Member
Whbut I'd happily put a glass panel in a tender becuase even if it didn't work you can re-hull a tender for a few £thousand. Perhaps 2 glass square windows, either side of the keel, in front of the steering console. About 400mm square. Cut the holes, get a GRP shop to create GRP recessed flanges, and bond the glass in flush (using anti-luddite glue
bril!
can I nick this idea JFM?
I've talked to the guy that'll built me a rib (only 3.20-3.50m as overall beam on MiToS is 4m) and he's got the mold to do the rib hull, so according to the technique you mentioned for the extra windows on Match, I could get him to do a couple of glass panes on the rib for minimal cost. Just got to check the mold for slightly flat bits where it's easy to do it and preferably not the areas that the chokes will be
EDIT:
Only wonder how that's going to work since it's double skin (one outer curved and slanted for the hull and a flat higher up to walk on). Got to keep the construction right and glass side walls there and have two pieces of glass one down at the hull and another up on the walking area (or skip that to a sand filling pit with a teak grate on top)
cheers
V.
Elessar
Well-Known Member
When it's under water, for playing or tender recovery, and there is a swell, the load on the lifting mechanism is a function of drag of the platform as it moves (mostly up/down) thru the water. The lifting mechanism would love it if the platofrm were open ladder construction
Separately, thinking about it some more, the glass-bottom-boat view of the sea will never work, will it. For it to work, the bottom face of the glass has to be underwater and the top face in air, which will virtually never happen. You'd have to recess the glass down well below the plane of the top teak surface, which would be a bit rubbish. Back to drawing board...
EDIT - I wrote that without reading the other replies - sorry, I see that other people have already explained all this
Glass bottom boat needs a glass panel then. I don't fancy it on the mother ship and it would kill re-sale price, but I'd happily put a glass panel in a tender becuase even if it didn't work you can re-hull a tender for a few £thousand. Perhaps 2 glass square windows, either side of the keel, in front of the steering console. About 400mm square. Cut the holes, get a GRP shop to create GRP recessed flanges, and bond the glass in flush (using anti-luddite glue
no good, coppercoat won't stick to glass
D
Deleted User YDKXO
Guest
Yes agreed and, if the glass was always immersed, keeping the underside of the glass clean would be a problem because I suspect the Med barnacles would love to set up home there
adey
Well-Known Member
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jimmy_the_builder
Well-Known Member
...could also be useful if you ever need to locate a dropped strainer basket.
Thanks for that
Cheers
Jimmy
vas
Well-Known Member
Danchc
Active Member
Hmmm, if my idea for a window in the swim platform is too much of a challenge, it's probably not worth suggesting a helicopter landing platform on the foredeck.....
ah well
ah well
henryf
Well-Known Member
I have never owned (or much wanted) a Porsche 911 so no MLC happening here just yet MapisM. But there is plenty of time I suppose
I must have had my mid life crisis very early in life then !
Isn't that funny, never owned a 911 and I've never kept a boat in the south of France.
Yet !
Henry
jfm
Well-Known Member
Henryf howsabout a deal then? Shall we agree that you move EJ to SofF and I'll buy a 911 from you?
henryf
Well-Known Member
Henryf howsabout a deal then? Shall we agree that you move EJ to SofF and I'll buy a 911 from you?
You'd have to buy one I'd stolen to cover the costs !!
H.
jfm
Well-Known Member
Surely there's enough margin for you in that nice 997 C4S gen2. Is it available, Henri?
While you're mulling it over here are some more s78 factory pics from today.
The first pic below is very dull sorry but it shows the backing pad for the anchor camera invented by Hurricane here
Below is the foredeck. Lots going on here. The boxes each side of sun pad are for ice and drinks. The big athwartships locker bottom right is for toys, under the foredeck
Below is the start of the hull fit out. Plumbing and wires and stuff
Finally here is the whole of the lovely hull. Very exciting to see this. It's still in the mould shop (that's the mould to its starboard side, and they've already started laying up the next one) awaiting a move into the main factory, t'other side of the partition. One of the big internal moulds is to its port side, and bottom right of first pic is a flybridge seating moulding
While you're mulling it over here are some more s78 factory pics from today.
The first pic below is very dull sorry but it shows the backing pad for the anchor camera invented by Hurricane here
Below is the foredeck. Lots going on here. The boxes each side of sun pad are for ice and drinks. The big athwartships locker bottom right is for toys, under the foredeck
Below is the start of the hull fit out. Plumbing and wires and stuff
Finally here is the whole of the lovely hull. Very exciting to see this. It's still in the mould shop (that's the mould to its starboard side, and they've already started laying up the next one) awaiting a move into the main factory, t'other side of the partition. One of the big internal moulds is to its port side, and bottom right of first pic is a flybridge seating moulding
