vas
Well-Known Member
In boat building it's much easier to get more things right second time around
.. and I guess even more so third and fourth time round
cheers
V.
Boat in build pics (2013 Fairline Squadron 78)
- Thread starter jfm
- Start date
.. and I guess even more so third and fourth time round
cheers
V.
landlockedpirate
Well-Known Member
Not sure about US spec motors, but in the UK, white Yamaha props are ali and black ones are stainless steel.
jfm
Well-Known Member
Ah thanks. This is a US spec motor of course. I'll have a look see when it arrives to see if it is stainless
I'm thinking US and UK spec must be the same on this point, because MYAG's Novurania 430 tender below also came direct-supply from Novurania in the US, and his has a white standard prop
MapisM
Well-Known Member
LOL, we eventually christened them as the the Xmas cracker thingie, IIRC...They are all same-metal ss, position sensors, auto retract when engines off, and considerably stronger than Match1's partly plastic installation, about which MapisM's predictions (=not really good enough) turned out to be right
I've not yet seen this s/s stuff in flesh, but they do look much better.
A couple of thoughts:
1) wouldn't it be possible to make them self-retracting also whenever reverse gear is engaged?
2) any reason for the recessed installation? Not sure if we already discussed that for M1, but other than an interference with something else (hi/low platform?), I can't see any logical reason for that - if anything, the opposite.
PS: I love the idea of the "MM approved" sticker, I must work on it!
burgundyben
Well-Known Member
What is the risk of the bolt seizing into the the tapped thread? Then stripping the thread on the way out, or the bolt shearing off? Would be worthwhile fitting a helicoil in SS or a camloc keensert type?
benjenbav
Well-Known Member
If that happened would it be easier to drill out the bolt and insert a helicoil on a one-off basis? Also, would it be better to use an ali helicoil to avoid galvanic corrosion?
petem
Well-Known Member
I was just thinking that myself (he lies)!
jfm
Well-Known Member
Yup, I think better to deal with this as and when needed, one offishly. It should happen only very rarely, because everything is gunged up with sealant as the furniture is installed and the threads ought not to see seawater
jfm
Well-Known Member
Decks...
Here are some pics of the decking process and white caulking. The first pics show the process of attaching the decks. The teak is made in panels (by Wattsons) from (I think) Equador teak. The panels are then coated in glue, while the GRP deck is being cleaned/prepared at same time, in background. Lots of guys doing this, to get the timing right I guess. In first pic, hull to left and deck to right are mine, and the boat in background whose stbd side you can see is the boat in front of mine on the line
Then the panels are put in position (3 pieces for the flybridge) and a vacuum sheet is placed over and edge-taped taped, as shown below.
Then the vac pump is switched on for a few hours. If you assume 30sqm of deck and even a 2/3rds vacuum ie 10psi, you have 200 tonnes of evenly distributed force clamping the teak to the GRP; way better than using odds and ends of lead weights which is how some do it. After the glue has dried they hand caulk the seams between the panels and the edges, sand the seams, and job is done.
Here are some other bits after the vac bag has been removed. BTW, in some pics the caulk looks a bit beigy due to teak dust from the sanding process but when you clean it it is white. I love the white caulk; I'm really pleased with it. Hope you agree!
Here are some pics of the decking process and white caulking. The first pics show the process of attaching the decks. The teak is made in panels (by Wattsons) from (I think) Equador teak. The panels are then coated in glue, while the GRP deck is being cleaned/prepared at same time, in background. Lots of guys doing this, to get the timing right I guess. In first pic, hull to left and deck to right are mine, and the boat in background whose stbd side you can see is the boat in front of mine on the line
Then the panels are put in position (3 pieces for the flybridge) and a vacuum sheet is placed over and edge-taped taped, as shown below.
Then the vac pump is switched on for a few hours. If you assume 30sqm of deck and even a 2/3rds vacuum ie 10psi, you have 200 tonnes of evenly distributed force clamping the teak to the GRP; way better than using odds and ends of lead weights which is how some do it. After the glue has dried they hand caulk the seams between the panels and the edges, sand the seams, and job is done.
Here are some other bits after the vac bag has been removed. BTW, in some pics the caulk looks a bit beigy due to teak dust from the sanding process but when you clean it it is white. I love the white caulk; I'm really pleased with it. Hope you agree!
rwilson
Well-Known Member
wow, looking very good indeed, white was the right choice.
Elessar
Well-Known Member
loveley.
jfm
Well-Known Member
Thanks rwilson. And I'm glad that you in particular Ellesar like it (for obvious reasons). I cogitated on it for ages but feel sure now it was a good choice (accepting of course that not everyone will agree )
)MattM
Member
Have to say JFM the white caulking really looks the biz.
Pic no. 8 makes it look like the saloon doors need to be curved or is it my imagination?
Pic no. 8 makes it look like the saloon doors need to be curved or is it my imagination?
rafiki_
Well-Known Member
Hmmm. The jury is still out for me on the caulking. I really want to see it in the flesh. The boat is coming on really nicely though, and it is great to get a better understanding of the build process.
jfm
Well-Known Member
I have a few posts worth of pictures so forgive me for doing this piecemeal. This post just shows the hull interior. All the internal mouldings are bonded in and all the glazing is in. Obviously all the underfloor plumbing and tanks/pumps are in. Engines are prob about 2 weeks away. Deck is in background of first pic, and I'd guess is about 3 weeks from being mated onto the hull
The blue by the way is a spray on plastic skin coating to reduce footprints on the gelcoat. It peels off later. This next pic shows the bow cabin and the two midships shower rooms. The two cut outs bottom left/right of picture (for 230v sockets, on front wall of midships cabins) mark the aft bulkhead of the two forward shower rooms. You can make out the shower bases in the moulding. I'm really pleased with the custom triple windows for the bow cabin and reckon they will really improve the bow cabin
The pic below is footprint of one of the midships twin/bouble convertible cabins (the smallest cabins). Windows are above the bed, and the blank bit to right of windows is where the wardrobe goes
Below is one of the master cabin windows
Finally the two pics below show e/room forward part (fuel tanks) and aft crew/utility area.
The blue by the way is a spray on plastic skin coating to reduce footprints on the gelcoat. It peels off later. This next pic shows the bow cabin and the two midships shower rooms. The two cut outs bottom left/right of picture (for 230v sockets, on front wall of midships cabins) mark the aft bulkhead of the two forward shower rooms. You can make out the shower bases in the moulding. I'm really pleased with the custom triple windows for the bow cabin and reckon they will really improve the bow cabin
The pic below is footprint of one of the midships twin/bouble convertible cabins (the smallest cabins). Windows are above the bed, and the blank bit to right of windows is where the wardrobe goes
Below is one of the master cabin windows
Finally the two pics below show e/room forward part (fuel tanks) and aft crew/utility area.
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jfm
Well-Known Member
Thanks. Makes me feel better that plenty of people are liking the white. I reckon it's the new black but I could have been in a minority of oneHave to say JFM the white caulking really looks the biz.
Pic no. 8 makes it look like the saloon doors need to be curved or is it my imagination?
Yup, door does indeed have slight curve. Pic below. This is a library pic: my stairs will be different.
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Elessar
Well-Known Member
It would be so annoying to have put the lid on and have forgotten something - a nightmare when doing customisation on a line one would think. Even worse with the liner potentially.
When I'm working on a boat and have done a major dismantle I always lay in and label a multicore, even if I have no foreseeable use for it.
Have you specced redundancy like this for future repair/upgrade?
erik_plus8
Well-Known Member
Is the picture of the cockpit from Match 1? If so, weren't those flybridge stairs also custom designed? What's the plan for Match 2 stairs?
White caulking looks fantastic, IMHO
White caulking looks fantastic, IMHO
benjenbav
Well-Known Member
I'm won over to the white caulking. I don't think it would work on, say, a Silver. But on a teenies F/L it's entirely appropriate, imho.
jfm
Well-Known Member
Tee hee. As I recall, on match 1 they forgot the bath. As the deck was being lowered onto the hull someone was screeching in a Fairline van to the plumbers to buy a bath
Nah, they'll remember to put everything on before the lids is glued. There's a list! As for future wiring, the whole boat is fitted (as standard spec) with perhaps a dozen or so 30mm dia plastic ducts with pull-through cord mousing. you can retro-run a wire from anywhere to anywhere, literally. Pic below is one of the mouse junctions on Match 1
