BartW
Well-known member
not as good as you Vas !
Blue Angel (Canados 70s) Rebuild thread
- Thread starter BartW
- Start date
not as good as you Vas !
Pinnacle
Well-known member
Bart. BA is going to look really fantastic when all of this work is done. As MapisM would say, Chapeau to you.
All the best to you and E for a great 2018 season.
All the best to you and E for a great 2018 season.
jfm
Well-known member
Great going Bart. The curved planks look really nice and with that thickness will last for years. I know what you mean about the +300kg but no big deal.
I think you should get the two stbd hatch corners changed while you still can. They will annoy you.
The foredeck king plank is really nice.
The exterior detailing (shiny bulwarks and fender strip) look really neat.
Awesome boat just gets more awesome each year! :encouragement:
Looking forward to more pictures!
I think you should get the two stbd hatch corners changed while you still can. They will annoy you.
The foredeck king plank is really nice.
The exterior detailing (shiny bulwarks and fender strip) look really neat.
Awesome boat just gets more awesome each year! :encouragement:
Looking forward to more pictures!
MapisM
Well-known member
All very interesting B, many thanks for sharing the experience with us.
Btw, a peculiar experience it must have been for good, following all this stuff while running your business a thousand of miles away, and talking with folks whose language ain't so easy to understand even for myself...
Anyway, I'm sure you'll enjoy your floating villa even more after all these efforts, which is what really matters at the end of the day! :encouragement:
All good ref. your replies - just to follow-up on the few debatable points:
1) forget the 300Kg, I understand that you might not like it in principle, but for a boat like BA it's nothing.
3) yup, the wood grain is what's wrong in those stbd borders, of course.
But mind, I wouldn't have even mentioned it, if it were just a matter of aesthetic/symmetry. It's the structural strength which is affected, first and foremost.
The way those two corners were cut and laid on the deck makes them prone to cracking, because there is an inherent weak point where the transversal bit is attached to the longitudinal part of the "L".
So, it could well happen that the moment they will screw the steel frame of the porthole, it will crack there and then.
And even if it doesn't, it remains a weaker point anyway, which over time is more likely to crack than any other plank, after the deck flexes a bit, is exposed to high thermal excursion, you have to re-seal the porthole frame... Whatever.
This is the reason why narrow radius borders must be cut out with diagonal wood grain, not because of aesthetic.
Btw, the yard is surely well aware of all that, not only because it's the ABC of boat carpentry, but because in your pics I noticed a few other narrow radius borders which were cut correctly, both in the deck and in the swim platform. That's what made me guess that those two small bits were just cut from someone who was already thinking about the weekend...
4) Agreed, if they suggested PSS seals you did well insisting for Tides instead - though the latest PSS stuff is much better/safer than it used to be, as I was told recently.
Lastly, yup, I perfectly understand the need to pass the bow lines through center fairleads whenever they would be too vertical using the bow fairleads.
Nice find btw, was Metalstyle suggested by the yard or did you source those bits yourself?
They aren't among the most popular producers of these accessories, but they do make some very good stuff.
I also fitted a couple of retractable cleats on the swim platform, and eventually decided for the Foresti & Suardi ones, but it has been a difficult choice between them and the very same which you choose... :encouragement:
Last edited:
BartW
Well-known member
and talking with folks whose language ain't so easy to understand even for myself...
that is the biggest challenge; they are used to do their own thing, the way they want and are used to,
they are not used to get instructions from a boat owner let alone the language barrier,
and here in this case, Alf's limited technical skills didn't help either...with due respect for his dedication on my project, and on the budget ;-)
BartW
Well-known member
These fairleads are my find, I had this model in mind from long ago, its the same height as the other side and bow fairleads, and I just like the shape.
I found them after long googling pics fairleads, and ordered from Metalstyle directly, and delivered them to the yard.
the foldeable cleats are a bit heavyer than I thought,
still in doubt to fit them on the platform, though they look very sleek,
jfm
Well-known member
Bart, I deliberately did not have those big cleats on my swim platform. Reason is that I worry they are too inviting for a port worker/temp captain/whatever to use them for the crossed mooring lines when I'm not on board, which isn't good for the H+B mechanism. I therefore tie my tender just to the swimming handles ( when anchored, not for towing) and I have tiny pop up cleats for fenders.
BartW
Well-known member
Yes, that is exactly why I’m in doubt for placing these solid cleats,
Small foldable cleats for fenders that’s a good idea,
We bring a long rope from a bow cleat via a side fairlead along the side of the boat,
For tie-ing the tender along the side at anker.
Tender is then on the side of the platform, or 3m more forward, avoiding that the tender rub rail is rubbing the platform,
a few small fenders would be very helpful in the first situation.
I was rather thinking / had in mind for fixing a SS rail / swimming handle(?) horizontally 30cm underneath the platform side, to avoid that the tenders goes “under” the platform in a shaking sea
many boats often tie the tender completely “behind” the boat, at anker aswell as during slow navigation,
I’m avoiding this, as the tie-rope (tied on a corner stern cleat) interferes or gets stuck between the corner of the hi-lo platform and the fixed platform,
Unless I use a bridle for having the rope going over the middle of the platform. (which is a faff)
Actually that is / was the purpose of these cleats on the hi –lo platform,
All very much first world problems
Any good tips for nice small pop-up cleats for fenders ?
MapisM
Well-known member
Fwiw, the cleats below are the ones I fitted on my swim platform, which you can find at this webpage
Not as 100% flush as those from Metalstyle, but not dangerous at all for feet anyway, and (imho) a bit sleeker.
The ones I installed are the medium size model (260mm length), which is VERY strong, to the point of being rated for use as main cleats in boats up to 20m. In fact, I'm thinking to use them specifically for crossed mooring lines, which I understand could be a bad idea with hi/lo platforms, as jfm suggested.
Otoh, the smaller ones (180mm), even if oversized for fenders alone, are very tiny and elegant, and surely good for the rib too, while hopefully still small enough to not tempt anyone to use them for mooring lines.
Well, not anyone with a pinch of common sense, at least...
BartW
Well-known member
Fwiw, the cleats below are the ones I fitted on my swim platform, which you can find at this webpage
Not as 100% flush as those from Metalstyle, but not dangerous at all for feet anyway, and (imho) a bit sleeker.
The ones I installed are the medium size model (260mm length), which is VERY strong, to the point of being rated for use as main cleats in boats up to 20m. In fact, I'm thinking to use them specifically for crossed mooring lines, which I understand could be a bad idea with hi/lo platforms, as jfm suggested.
Otoh, the smaller ones (180mm), even if oversized for fenders alone, are very tiny and elegant, and surely good for the rib too, while hopefully still small enough to not tempt anyone to use them for mooring lines.
Well, not anyone with a pinch of common sense, at least...
thanks for the link P. I considered the bigger model for the tender, but didn't choose it because not completely flush.
didn't realise they have so small...
BartW
Well-known member
After 5.5months dry under the shed, she ‘s back afloat.
with another forum member’s boat in the background.
More pics from the rebuild will come later,
A Engineering question:
Depending on the force and the direction of the mooring ropes in the back,
The gunwale corner flexes a bit resulting in a sticking transom gate door.
now after reinforcing / renewing the gunwales, we still have this issue,
ofcause I can make a wider gap between the door and the gun wale, that’s what we did before,
but each time we made the gate door a few mm’ers smaller, after a while,
the gunwale was flexing a bit more so that the door was sticking again.
I would like to have a system on these transom gate doors, (P an SB) that keeps a gap between the door and the side pole / door frame
But that I can still easily open and close the gate.
Any idea’s ?
with another forum member’s boat in the background.
More pics from the rebuild will come later,
A Engineering question:
Depending on the force and the direction of the mooring ropes in the back,
The gunwale corner flexes a bit resulting in a sticking transom gate door.
now after reinforcing / renewing the gunwales, we still have this issue,
ofcause I can make a wider gap between the door and the gun wale, that’s what we did before,
but each time we made the gate door a few mm’ers smaller, after a while,
the gunwale was flexing a bit more so that the door was sticking again.
I would like to have a system on these transom gate doors, (P an SB) that keeps a gap between the door and the side pole / door frame
But that I can still easily open and close the gate.
Any idea’s ?
Hurricane
Well-known member
She looks beautiful, Bart.
Well done.
I bet you are really pleased.
Well done.
I bet you are really pleased.
MapisM
Well-known member
Stunning vessel as always, B.
I hope MAFWeiss doesn't mind me saying that his much more modern boat, beautiful as she is, in 10 years from now might look older than BA, which will always remain in her own time warp... :encouragement:
Tricky question ref. the flexing gunwale.
There's one thing I can't remember, was the boat built with those steel poles under the f/b overhang, or did you fit them?
I'm asking because if feasible, you might consider moving them right inside the tip of the gunwale curve, near the transom doors apertures.
This way, you could attach them somehow to the gunwale itself, making the whole structure concurrent and hopefully restricting any movements.
Provided of course that the main purpose of the poles, which is obviously to strengthen the f/b overhang, would not be jeopardized.
I suppose that also depends on the floor structure in that point.
All to be checked carefully, as always for any armchair engineering ideas...
markc
Well-known member
She looks beautiful Bart!
Bouba
Well-known member
Beautiful ship. As for the sticking door, you could put a hinged lifting teak cap like on a ship’s rails.
I couldn’t find a decent image
They are usually substantial with a stainless steel, or brass, hinge and end cap. This could brace the gunwale open.
Or a stainless steel frame around the door opening
Of course much more substantial than this example. Because it will be a open u shape it would of course be profiled like angle iron
I couldn’t find a decent image
They are usually substantial with a stainless steel, or brass, hinge and end cap. This could brace the gunwale open.
Or a stainless steel frame around the door opening
Of course much more substantial than this example. Because it will be a open u shape it would of course be profiled like angle iron
rafiki_
Well-known member
BA looking fabulous Bart. Unless you can find a clever way of stiffening the transom, I think the flexing is something you have to live with. You could change the door design to be significantly smaller than the aperture, and then use a canvas cover when you are away from BA. We have this on our Azi.
Mr Googler
Well-known member
Amazing Bart. Seems a shame to get her wet and dirty outdoors
Re the door....how about a heavy duty roller. Maybe something like this
https://www.alwayse.co.uk/heavy-duty-series-810.html
A piece of flat stainless on the other side. Probably wouldn’t even notice it. Just a thought
Re the door....how about a heavy duty roller. Maybe something like this
https://www.alwayse.co.uk/heavy-duty-series-810.html
A piece of flat stainless on the other side. Probably wouldn’t even notice it. Just a thought
BartW
Well-known member
Tricky question ref. the flexing gunwale.
There's one thing I can't remember, was the boat built with those steel poles under the f/b overhang, or did you fit them?
I'm asking because if feasible, you might consider moving them right inside the tip of the gunwale curve, near the transom doors apertures.
This way, you could attach them somehow to the gunwale itself, making the whole structure concurrent and hopefully restricting any movements.
Provided of course that the main purpose of the poles, which is obviously to strengthen the f/b overhang, would not be jeopardized.
I suppose that also depends on the floor structure in that point.
All to be checked carefully, as always for any armchair engineering ideas...
This is a solution that I didn't think about,
these poles are installed 4y ago when we upgarded the tender you 'll remember we discussed about the best solution for strengthening the FB overhang at that time,
under the floor exactly under the position of these poles is a wood pillar, resting on a hull frame,
but it would be possible to do the same at the other side of the steps, actually it would be a good idea to do that under the floor reinforcement there anyway, ... would probably cure some of the gunwale bending. (not 100% sure) but extra reinforcement would not harm.
I considered moving the F/B poles to the sides for another reason; looking at the back of the boat, it seems that side overhangs, are bending down by their weight, (+ tender + rafts, ...) but I found out that this shape is in the design, so we didn't move the poles, also because it would impede the handling the lazy lines...
BartW
Well-known member
Amazing Bart. Seems a shame to get her wet and dirty outdoors
Re the door....how about a heavy duty roller. Maybe something like this
https://www.alwayse.co.uk/heavy-duty-series-810.html
A piece of flat stainless on the other side. Probably wouldn’t even notice it. Just a thought
this is the kind of solution I had in mind ! thanks for the link !
BartW
Well-known member
do you like the new boat name ?
this is a first test, just with adhesive letters,
mixed opinions here, but I absolutely like it,
yes the port name (on the door) migh be a bit more solid, ( but who cares...)
but I like the "finesse" on the size of the name letters
my only doubt is about the letter top surface color,
now it is dark metallic grey, (we have / will have more of that on BA in the future)
so options are: polished SS, or black, or metallic grey
imo:
polished SS = so common, everybody has it, the name doesn't stand out from the SS construction details on the boat
Dark metallic grey = ?
Black = might be a bit "intrigueing" , but perhaps a bit to harsh, ...
unfortunately no supplyer can make the light letters so thin (so far)
so I'm not in hurry with that
this is a first test, just with adhesive letters,
mixed opinions here, but I absolutely like it,
yes the port name (on the door) migh be a bit more solid, ( but who cares...)
but I like the "finesse" on the size of the name letters
my only doubt is about the letter top surface color,
now it is dark metallic grey, (we have / will have more of that on BA in the future)
so options are: polished SS, or black, or metallic grey
imo:
polished SS = so common, everybody has it, the name doesn't stand out from the SS construction details on the boat
Dark metallic grey = ?
Black = might be a bit "intrigueing" , but perhaps a bit to harsh, ...
unfortunately no supplyer can make the light letters so thin (so far)
so I'm not in hurry with that
Last edited: