Blue Angel (Canados 70s) Rebuild thread

[jfm]

Hi Bart
Good idea to use same thread

MDF comes in lots of qualities, made by lots of factories. The high end product, fe made by Medite, has a waterproof option, indicated by green stain. But lots of other MDF products, made by other factories, are coloured green as well. So you can get mixed up, and you are never quite sure what you have bought...

Although the product might be good enough, the risk of mix up with inferior product, the negative view of most boatbuilders, and the fact top quality MDF isn't much cheaper than marine plywood, means I would not use it on a boat. I would use a high quality marine plywood, veneered in teak or whatever you want, and use that. UK suppliers include KJ Howells, Robbins and others. All good companies

 

[rwoofer]

I wouldn't use MDF. I've just bought a sailing dinghy for local sailing and it had a backing plate out of MDF. It was soaking wet and as soft as cardboard (although not today as it's frozen solid).

Never heard of waterproof MDF, but even if it is, why take the risk.

In furniture people like to use MDF as it is much easier to get a very good paint finish on MDF.

 

[BartW]

Thanks guy’s for the advice !!
will use marine plywood only.


Here some pics from one of the job’s we did in November;
The C70’s has a known issue, there is no bulkhead underneath the sidewall’s from the cockpit,
Which have all the weight of the rear flybridge overhang on top.
So when she gets older, the floor around the sidewall bends a bit,

The pictures show what I mean.
I ‘ve put water on the floor just for these pics;

Very often, after rinsing or cleaning, or navigation in heavy sea, a splash of water remains in these area’s.
Last winter, the Italian teamboss proposed to lift the floor with a hydraulic cylinder and fit wooden beams underneath. I tried to explain that I wanted to do the job with a metal prop, that could remain in there, but He didn’t understand what I meant, and the job wasn’t done at that time.

In November I brought in 2 metal building props and put them in the engine room just underneath these side walls.
The props are resting on the beams supporting the engines.

This is SB side,

And here is P side.

Cover plate back in position

this way we have lifted the floor approx 10 mil on each side, and now all water splashes in the cockpit flow to the sides, and or towards the stern

 

[Pinnacle]

Very good! Also means the drips from drying wetsuits drains away as well.

 

[BartW]

Very good! Also means the drips from drying wetsuits drains away as well.

exactly P, you're the experienced expert

 

[rafiki_]

Nice solution Bart. Is there sufficient strength in the engine bearer to resist fatigue cracking? I've no idea of the load through the pillar, but there may be some peaks as BA rides waves? Could you spread the load with a larger plate?

 

[BartW]

Is there sufficient strength in the engine bearer to resist fatigue cracking? I've no idea of the load through the pillar, but there may be some peaks as BA rides waves? Could you spread the load with a larger plate?

Yes I have had the same concern Rafiki,
that solid wooden beam is quite high, but we never know if it still has the orriginal strenth.
I don't think that I will crack the hull, this is really thick and solid,
but nevertheless,
I'm still considering to place a new extra solid beam on top of the old, about a meter length fits in there. This would never harm and is very easy to do.

 

[jfm]

Good stuff Bart. This is exactly how Fairlines are built, and probably many others though I have not studied this in other boats. Sq78 has a 6inch piece of vertical ali pipe, maybe 10mm wall thickness, running down the C pillar from the athwartships beam across the top of the patio doors, to a big pad on frames and stringers in the engine room floor.

I agree it makes sense to spread the load at the foot of the post. Great stuff

 

[Pinnacle]

exactly P, you're the experienced expert

You know full well that isn't true! Enthusiastic amateur, more like!

 

[BartW]

You know full well that isn't true! Enthusiastic amateur, more like!

Peter, you're the experienced expert in hanging the dripping wetsuits, and splashing on the cockpitfloor

 

[Harry25]

Here some pics from one of the job’s we did in November;
The C70’s has a known issue, there is no bulkhead underneath the sidewall’s from the cockpit,
Which have all the weight of the rear flybridge overhang on top.
So when she gets older, the floor around the sidewall bends a bit,

In November I brought in 2 metal building studs and put them in the engine room just underneath these side walls.
The studs are resting on the beams supporting the engines.

This is SB side,

And here is P side.

Cover plate back in position

this way we have lifted the floor approx 10 mil on each side, and now all water splashes in the cockpit flow to the sides, and or towards the stern[/QUOTE]

It looks really good Bart but I don't think you have left enough room for the pole dancers!!!

 

[petem]

Bart, I think we'd call this a Prop not a Stud. Good work though!

 

[BartW]

Bart, I think we'd call this a Prop not a Stud. Good work though!

good advice petem,
I'll edit the text as the word "Stud" is really wrong here

My English Vocabulary is really small,
remarks like yours enables me to learn.

 

[petem]

My English Vocabulary is really small

You're very modest, your english is excellent!

 

[jfm]

A lot of people would call that an "Acrow-prop", Bart. Pronounced Ak-ro. Acrow is a brand name, but Acrow-prop has come to be used as a generic name for a prop with a screw thread in the middle that allows you to jack the prop up tight. Mostly used in construction/building as I'm sure you know. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acrow_prop

Pete is right: your English is excellent. You deserve a red ensign

 

[BartW]

Just returned from a week working on the boat
The ceiling in the engineroom is too low,
So that my friend and myself always’s have to bend to go in there

Same for the Lazarette

Between the engines the celing is 20cm higher so there it is ok

I was so fed-up with this, and because it was not too difficult to do, we decided to lower the floor, there was only one big task, and that’s taking out the SS black water tank,
And replace with a new lower plastic model
Here you can see the old tank in its position,
All wooden beams are removable from origin.

Here is the old tank:

And to our big astonischment, she was “nearly” perforated by corrosion
It was easy to stick that screwdriver through the wall,
This was a “just in time” replacement

Here we have lowered the floor of the lazarette,
The space for the new tank underneath is 15cm lower, but the length of the tank is 40cm more.
(old tank was 400l, new tank is 350 liter)

Also pay attention to the extra step we made, with room for your toes

Then lowering the E/R floor

We had to lower the position of the generator cooling water filters

And bring one hose connection from the white water tank to the side,
which was on the top, where the brass plug is now.

We also had to move the ventilation hose connection, as the white hose, did interfere with the new position of the big black tube that goes to the black water tank

The new lowered floor, still needs some esthetic finishing, and painting, but thats for later

On another front,

Another friend was replacing the furniture and walls in the crew cabin heads.

The complete side wall, toilet and shower floor is taken out,
new planks are made to measure, and are taken back home for professional painting,
and place teak and the floor panels

The shower sink is treated with epoxy, and will have a new teak grill on top.

Quai was used as the wood workshop

 

[BartW]

Swmbo spend 3 day’s sanding the gunwale capping

And to my very pleasant surprise,
she was so impressed with the quality of the bare wood, to keep this as natural as possible,
and she preferred to oil them in future, instead of varnish. Hurray !

The capping of this side gate door, has had one layer of oil

you can see the difference between bare wood, oiled, and orriginal many layers of old varnish

Actually it is very easy to put the oil with a cloth,


Here you see her working with the orbital sander, in a pleasant SOF winter sun, (10…13°C)

A week of hard work down south, but nevertheless great fun to do.

 

[Erik C]

Great work Bart! The oiled wood does look very nice.

 

[Pinnacle]

Bart

You have some great friends......and a fantastic SWMBO! ( But you knew that already. )

 

[Deleted User YDKXO]

Good job, Bart. How do you get friends like that?