Blue Angel (Canados 70s) Rebuild thread

[vas]

One question for the teak wizards, since I know there are some around here...
I would have sweared to have seen in a not so distant past a debate on the best oils for the treatment above, but I couldn't find it with the lousy search.
So, since I guessed that Bart was inspired from it, I asked him first, but he told me that he just used one of the many teak oil products around.
Now, does anyone remember a thread where we debated this point with all the usual geeky details, or did I dream or it?
Ta!

you're right MM,
was sometime in autumn (if not earlier...) but too tired now to try and find it. I think Tom (Littleship) was one of the contributors (but I may be mixing things up with other threads I was interested in...)

l8r

V.

 

[vas]

shinny things...

ah,

and since i've not replied in this thread over the last few days:

ppl, I'm not into shiny things, on the contrary I like operational, clean(ish) well weathered stuff. I'm happy with that. I'd be frustrated with shinny clean inox bits as I'd feel I have to keep them shinny (and I'll never do...)
Also students are a liability, not workforce you can rely upon (not to mention that there's no research/teaching oportunities in a resto project when I'm teaching them digital design and virtual reality )
nice try though Pete and raf

Bart, the detail with this bronze thick screw in your teak (and all the other bits that go with it) is really weak. They've used the same technique in the stanchion supports for my f/b railings and they all had developed a nice rot patch 100x100mm at least
I understand that since you've no access from underneath (I do, so I scrapped them!) you have no option, I'd make sure I soak and fit the bugger in epoxy and use decent quality caulking/silicon for the screwing bit. Rubber seals are nice, but I'd want to remove them every couple of years to check how are things underneath!
DONT UNDERESTIMATE THE CASE OF WATER REACHING THE SS SUPPORT AND GOING IN THROUGH THE BOLT! Make sure you use a rubber grommet there as well (that's the source of my trouble in the lower railing stanchions...)

got a heavy stripping/building day tomorrow and only 4:40h to sleep, so off to bed!

V.

 

[jfm]

does anyone remember a thread where we debated this point with all the usual geeky details, or did I dream or it?
Ta!

Yes there was. Might have been a blue angel thread. Someone said "use oil". Longjohnsilver said "don't - it goes all sticky then black" and I said "just buy the nice stuff (starbrite and many other brands, but NOT one particularly horrible brand - sika? can't remember) and I posted below picture of my lower table done in nice oil. But I dont remeber which exact thread. 9 months ago maybe?

 

[Divemaster1]

Use Owatrol Deks Olje ... D1 to saturate the wood (4 - 7 coats wet-on-wet) ... then a couple of layers of D2 ... D2 hardens surface, but keep flexible underneath as oil..

Saturated wood with oil disperse water and hardened oil surface with partially hardened oil under will remian flexible without cracking .. Result = glossy hard surface which retaines flexibility and does not crack.... Done this several years back and about to repeat on recently discovered teak parts on Navigator ... Will of course post pictures..., but it is all in the preparation and in the wood saturation..

 

[BartW]

Now, does anyone remember a thread where we debated this point with all the usual geeky details, or did I dream or it?

I believe this was the thread that you and others mention about,

http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthrea...eak-gunwale-capping&highlight=varnish+gunwale

 

[MapisM]

Yep, that's the one, thanks B for finding it! It's actually one year old now, doesn't time fly...!?

Use Owatrol Deks Olje ... D1 to saturate the wood (4 - 7 coats wet-on-wet) ... then a couple of layers of D2 ...

Blimey Alf, that sounds almost as time consuming as re-varnishing...
Is in your experience really worth the hassle?
Looking at jfm pics in that old thread, it seems that also a simpler one layer pass, with periodic refreshes, works very nicely...
...otoh, if "your" treatment really lasts for years with no need for any refreshing, it's worth a thought.
I'm really Looking forward to your pics, but it would be interesting to include some also of parts treated in the past, to see how age and exposure affects them.
Thanks in advance!

 

[Divemaster1]

.........Blimey Alf, that sounds almost as time consuming as re-varnishing...
Is in your experience really worth the hassle?.....

Last time I did that, my swim platforms was on the 4th year before I had to do them again...

 

[MapisM]

WOW! is all I can say.
Even more interested in some pics, if you've got any!

 

[Whopper]

Use Owatrol Deks Olje ... D1 to saturate the wood (4 - 7 coats wet-on-wet) ... then a couple of layers of D2 ... D2 hardens surface, but keep flexible underneath as oil..

+1 on the Deks Olje. I use Deks Olje on the teak bathing platform of my Mastercraft. I don't bother with D2 only D1 which is essentially what most people are referring to as teak oil. Gives a nice colour but still weathers away after a few months (maybe 2+). This could be worth while on your teak cappings.

 

[Divemaster1]

WOW! is all I can say.
Even more interested in some pics, if you've got any!

Found some teak painted and in the process of sanding and oiling this and teak cappings on davits ... will take & post pictures when back from Houston.

 

[BartW]

Bart, the detail with this bronze thick screw in your teak (and all the other bits that go with it) is really weak.

Vas, we were lucky, despite the old mounting method, and lots of crab and old sicaflex under the stanchions,
no damage on the visable parts of the teak capping

Here some pics from a few moths back now,
just before remounting the gardrails,
showing the freshly oiled teak,
and all bits nicely fitted together with rubber sealings inbetween (see previous picturepost)

each stud sits with a small black rubber ring on the teac

 

[BartW]

The 2 weeks after Easter we have been very busy with friends doing different jobs at the boat
In order to keep track of all the works that have been done, here the picture report:


One more dive by the owner for final details on the stabilizer drawings

Acces covers to cables and fixing screws on the inside of the radar arch have been neglected in the past,
Result some rotten plywood in that area (no pics from before)
With a router we made one new large opening , incorporating all the old smaller openings

Here you see them checking the new lid:

No pic from the end stage eiter, but looked good and water sealed


Our new blackwater tank has arrived:
The SS bar is for fixing against a frame

First replacing the old hoses and painting some tubes

And fit a manual bilge pump, (for the coding)

This is the spot where the tank has be fitted

Getting in was tight

One had to take care of some painting jobs, this door has been painted at least 9 times (long story)

Another friend was in charge of engine en genny maintenance.
Following advice from MAN we opened the intercooler and heat exchanger for inspection and potential cleaning,

But this was all very clean

 

[BartW]

One friend sat on her knees during 2 day’s, she was in charge of the teak polishing (2 part cleaning)

and another did a few repairs on the teak Caulking

One friend had to leave a few day’s earlier, so I was personally in charge of fitting these removable scuba tank rails,
Distance between any 2 fittings is 40cm, so these can be placed in whatever configuration.
They are good for small (12l) aswell as larger (15l) and (2x10l) air tanks.

The divers can sit in front (while standing on the lowered platform,
And a assistant can walk between the transom and the rails.
The tender can still be placed on the hi lo part, (remove able tender supports) while tanks are in position

Yes I’m also a fan of the Straw brown natural looking teak, more pics on that will follow
Apparently not many onboard share that obsession;

These tubes are for the new rear FB railing, new ropes still to be purchased, but here is a first impression.

Did a big order for quick marine lights, and was seduced to order a pair of these “secret light’s” for a cozy atmosphere on the bow bed.

I’ve always’s hated that ugly brass sink in the day heads, but now nicely replaced with a shiny polished SS lavabo, also protecting the wals and the curten for water splashing.
In real it looks less shiny then on these pics

that wood panel underneath will be replaced / made new to measure

The biggest works have been done in the crew cabin,
Rebuild a big part of the bathroom; sidewall, toilet frame, teak floor, cupboard doors, ceiling panels,
A combination of original formica, and newly painted marine ply in the same color

And cleaning, upgrading and painting the room itself

 

[BartW]

There were small leaks in the master cabin shower,
the seams between the Formica walls and the GRP floor sink, was leaking, shower water in the bilge.
We have protected these seams, the floor and 5cm up the wall, with sort of a rubber seal, that remains flexible (the grey stuff)

(got the product from a company who builds container houses, they use this for the shower)
and this is how it looks like with the original teak / ply floorplate fitted

Parts of these decorative louvers were very badly rotten, so totally replaced on both sides by my friend carpenter ,
(with help from the famous painter ofcourse)

have a look at the straw brown teak floor everywhere

Oh yes, actually the first job we did was replacing the broken dish washer with a brand new Siemens with SS front.
The old one was smaller, but with a adaptation of the available space, the new one fits nicely.

Also the old one had a (ugly) slatted door in front, just like the fridge and the freezer here on this pic,
and these are on the list for next year, (with SS front)
as well as our old gas oven,
to be replaced with a SS front electric combi oven.

Allmost all lights are now replaced with LED, not only for the current draw, but mostly because of my banning of brass items on board.
I’m pleased with the quality of the Quick marine lights.
Apparently I’m the only one who notices that the CRI of these lights is not yet 100%, (but close though  )

That’s it for now, we also did a lot of preparation work for the stabilizer fitting,
furniture dismantling, etc…
Pictures on that will follow later

 

[Erik C]

Hi Bart, nice job. That crew cabin looks completely new.

 

[vas]

that's why you've been so quiet then

looks fantastic!
well done and should have some seriously relaxing time over the summer

random Qs

black water tank looks small (for BA I mean, how large is it??)
name of the grey paint/material you covered the shower tray plz!
cheers

V.

 

[BartW]

Hi Bart, nice job. That crew cabin looks completely new.

thanks Eric,
the color in the pics don't do justice,
the bathroom is a very light beige, same as all bathrooms in BA, and just on the edge for me liking ( I hate beige and yellow as you might know )
the color from new and old panels match very close, hard to distinguish the difference if you don't know it.

the painting of the crew cabin is light grey, with a very small blue-ish teint, less blue then in the pics,
same color as the new fabric for the ceiling, which is going to be used for all ceilings, everywhere in the boat, (except galley and heads)
but this is a project for next winter

 

[BartW]

random Qs

black water tank looks small (for BA I mean, how large is it??)
name of the grey paint/material you covered the shower tray plz!
cheers

V.

original tank was a bit bigger, 400l
the new one is longer but less high,
1.75 x 0.7 x 0.3

we have a habit of emptying the tank each time when leaving a port / anchorage,
but in winter, when we don't go out much, I have to admid that most of the toilets flush direct in the sea.


don't know the name of the grey rubber,
will note the details when I'm at the boat in a few weeks.
still some of it left in the 5l tin.

 

[AndieMac]

Wow Bart, the ship is looking sensational! Congratulations to yourself and E, you are clearly very proud of work so far, and justifiably so

Btw, loved the expression..."seduced into buying the "secret lights" for the bow bed".....as if your boating lifestyle wasn't enviable enough already

It's a great thread mate, enjoy the upcoming season and I'll look forward to any updates/reports.

 

[MapisM]

Blimey B, words fail me!
How you can manage to organize and actually fulfill maintenance activities which most boaters would ask a yard to handle, and keep your business running at the same time, that's beyond my understanding. Did you find a trick to make days last longer than 24h?
I see some tape on top of the anchor winch, does that mean that you're waiting for the Lofran's parts for the upgrade?
If there's any help you might need from that IT engineer, just ask.
I'm still on the other side of the Pond till mid of May, but I can email him of course.
Can't wait to see again in flesh BA - AKA the absolute best Canados 70s!