Beta 14 Starter Motor won't start

DangerousPirate

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there is a substance i used to use in the electronics industry that i feel may be of use to readers.
i was the storeman for a company that used to make the electronics that went into the newer versions of parking meters, and part of the companies stipulations for manufacture was by coating the finished circuit board in something called 'conformal coating' to protect everything from the effects of moisture and weather.
it basically protected the circuit from corrosion due to moisture.
i personally consider it expensive, but well worth the expense, and when all is considered, its still probably cheaper than anything sold in a swindelery. it is however very effective and does everything it say on the tin.
there is one drawback, soldering components after it has been applied is a pain, but then soldering will hardly be needed at all after its application.
this is the stuff i use, but it can also be bought in a can as a brush on formula, costs a bit more, but you get more of it than in a spray can.
Ambersil 30235-AA Acrylic Conformal Coating 400ml
Friend of mine just uses vaseline.
 

trapper guy

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Okay, so I wasn't convinced it would be but it was the fuse. Motor works absolutely fine now. Guess sometimes you expect more than what it is.🤷‍♂️
happy to hear it solved your problem :)

i was exactly the same, i suspected everything, even went to great length the remove the instrument panel, went around it all with the meter, wasnt getting anything.
then looked around for bad earths, i did all of it. and then my mission to find the fuse.
once that was done everything became tickety-boo.

now you have saved yourself a few bob on the new starter you can go for a pint to celebrate.
 

DangerousPirate

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happy to hear it solved your problem :)

i was exactly the same, i suspected everything, even went to great length the remove the instrument panel, went around it all with the meter, wasnt getting anything.
then looked around for bad earths, i did all of it. and then my mission to find the fuse.
once that was done everything became tickety-boo.

now you have saved yourself a few bob on the new starter you can go for a pint to celebrate.
I don't understand why they just had to put the fuse so well hidden in the back.
 

trapper guy

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I don't understand why they just had to put the fuse so well hidden in the back.
may i refer you back to the post where i sent them an email, and you came back with something like 'thats engineers for you, they dont care about servicing, just that the engine works' or words to that effect.

but thats exactly my sentiments, gloucester really SHOULD think about relocating that fuse, that is unless my initial suspicion is correct, that they are making a buck off people ignorance, therefore its current placement is deliberate.
 

DangerousPirate

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may i refer you back to the post where i sent them an email, and you came back with something like 'thats engineers for you, they dont care about servicing, just that the engine works' or words to that effect.

but thats exactly my sentiments, gloucester really SHOULD think about relocating that fuse, that is unless my initial suspicion is correct, that they are making a buck off people ignorance, therefore its current placement is deliberate.
I remember that exchange haha. Ah well, but thanks to this experience, I am going to cut better access to my engine
 

trapper guy

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I remember that exchange haha. Ah well, but thanks to this experience, I am going to cut better access to my engine
and remember, it is an electronics/electrical engineers mantra to always check the fuses first.
i was once given a 110v transformer by an electrician, said he couldnt work out what was wrong with it 'maybe its for the bin' he said.
1x 13amp fuse later and it was tip-top
 

pmagowan

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The engine is designed to sit on a cradle on a table in a factory. When installed there will be all kinds of complications. In my opinion you should move all the main service items to a convenient place eg filters, pumps, fuses.
 

donm

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im just happy to be able to contribute and help a fellow earthling out
I had a Trapper 500 in around 1980. Bought it as a hull and decks and fitted it out in the garden where the garage used to be!
Lovely boat, one of the first bilge keelers they made and still my wife's favourite although long gone now - the Trapper that is!
 

trapper guy

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I had a Trapper 500 in around 1980. Bought it as a hull and decks and fitted it out in the garden where the garage used to be!
Lovely boat, one of the first bilge keelers they made and still my wife's favourite although long gone now - the Trapper that is!
happy to hear your wife stuck around though :D
 

trapper guy

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I had a Trapper 500 in around 1980. Bought it as a hull and decks and fitted it out in the garden where the garage used to be!
Lovely boat, one of the first bilge keelers they made and still my wife's favourite although long gone now - the Trapper that is!
in that case, i have a question for you!
what type of hull anode is fitted to them??
ive noticed mine is very much on the ebb and is in need of replacement, however there is very little info on trappers on the internet these days. im suspecting it was a pear shaped anode but could be wrong, and absolutely no idea on size
 

donm

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in that case, i have a question for you!
what type of hull anode is fitted to them??
ive noticed mine is very much on the ebb and is in need of replacement, however there is very little info on trappers on the internet these days. im suspecting it was a pear shaped anode but could be wrong, and absolutely no idea on size
Looks like you’re in the Bristol Channel same as me so a standard pear shaped anode for salt water has been good for all my boats including the current one, properly connected. Lasts around 6/7 seasons before it needs replacing.
Don’t be surprised if your question generates some other opinions though!
 

trapper guy

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Looks like you’re in the Bristol Channel same as me so a standard pear shaped anode for salt water has been good for all my boats including the current one, properly connected. Lasts around 6/7 seasons before it needs replacing.
Don’t be surprised if your question generates some other opinions though!
awesome, so a trip to the chandlery is on the cards, i did discover some rust on the keel during my stay in ilfracombe, so ive got some work to do once i get to my mooring!
 
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