Best 3.5hp outboard?

[Wandering Star]

My 2015 Honda 2.3 outboard has been condemned by the outboard engineer at Cobbs Quay. Apparently requires a new carburettor plus labour an can’t guarantee longevity of repair even after that. So I think it’s sensible for me to buy a new outboard for the tender/dinghy. What do forumites recommend as a reliable replacement? I can’t afford an electric one before anyone suggests that option.

Thanks in advance,

 

[jamie N]

Honda 2.3.
Seriously, I'd like to see your engineer's rationale for condemning it, as my own experience is that they're wonderfully easy to keep going?

 

[northwind]

Tohatsu 3.5 four stroke, as the handles on it make it easier to handle than the mercury/mariner equivalent.

 

[Wandering Star]

Hmmm. Well the background is that it was running perfectly last season but I suffered a bad fall which put paid to sailing since last May and the outboard hasn’t been used between then and now (11 months).

I tried starting it on Friday and with the choke on, it starts at second pull, however pushing the choke back in stops it immediately as does throttling it up with the choke out! Essentially, it’ll tick over at just above idle with the choke out - anything else and it won’t run. It’ll start again straight away.

I took it to Cobbs Quay and the guy listened to my story and told me he wouldn’t touch it, he diagnosed “carburettor” and told me it was a common failing and not worth spending the money on a new carburettor (£175) plus his labour charge. He didn’t try to sell me a new outboard!

As I’m not reallly mechanically savvy and because the boats a quarter mile dinghy trip which is too far for a geriatric like me to row, I made the decision to buy a new outboard.

Do you have any clues as to what might be wrong and is it fixable for a reasonable amount? Do you think I should get a second opinion? I have to say I’m sure Ive read bad reports about carburettor reliability and cost iof repairs etc for the model.

 

[VicS]

Hmmm. Well the background is that it was running perfectly last season but I suffered a bad fall which put paid to sailing since last May and the outboard hasn’t been used between then and now (11 months).

I tried starting it on Friday and with the choke on, it starts at second pull, however pushing the choke back in stops it immediately as does throttling it up with the choke out! Essentially, it’ll tick over at just above idle with the choke out - anything else and it won’t run. It’ll start again straight away.

I took it to Cobbs Quay and the guy listened to my story and told me he wouldn’t touch it, he diagnosed “carburettor” and told me it was a common failing and not worth spending the money on a new carburettor (£175) plus his labour charge. He didn’t try to sell me a new outboard!

As I’m not reallly mechanically savvy and because the boats a quarter mile dinghy trip which is too far for a geriatric like me to row, I made the decision to buy a new outboard.

Do you have any clues as to what might be wrong and is it fixable for a reasonable amount? Do you think I should get a second opinion? I have to say I’m sure Ive read bad reports about carburettor reliability and cost iof repairs etc for the model.

Sounds as though the carb needs cleaning.

.

 

[jamie N]

This seems like it could well be a familiar story of a recurrent 'fault' with these engines, which is very simple to rectify.
Honda BF2.3 carb clean | YBW Forum

I've used the procedure within that thread very successfully. It took me about an hour or so, and was extremely logical to do. It doesn't require great mechanical skills or kit, basically an 8mm & 10mm socket does it all.
I did mine in my garage, with it mounted in a vice on the workbench, and allowed my natural nervousness to double check everything first so that I didn't drop anything. It's all accessible, and relatively simple.
BTW, post #14 in the attachment has the procedure as well as photo's.

 

[dunedin]

The present outboard is barely run in. At least a decade newer than ours.
Did you replace the fuel, which nowadays tends to go off? Empty all the fuel and replace with a few litres of E5 “super unleaded” petrol.
Then strip and clean the carburettor in meths or similar. Should be a simple DIY job - Google a manual or a YouTube video. Take about 20 minutes for a first timer- a bit longer if bolts have corroded (put lots of grease on bolts before replacing).
PS. I am a mechanical numpty but this should be about 1/10 on the mechanical complexity scale.

 

[jamie N]

@Steve65 is the resident expert on these engines, but took a sabbatical on them due to work pressures, a few months ago.
It might be worthwhile giving him a pm to confirm or advise?

 

[Steve65]

Hmmm. Well the background is that it was running perfectly last season but I suffered a bad fall which put paid to sailing since last May and the outboard hasn’t been used between then and now (11 months).

I tried starting it on Friday and with the choke on, it starts at second pull, however pushing the choke back in stops it immediately as does throttling it up with the choke out! Essentially, it’ll tick over at just above idle with the choke out - anything else and it won’t run. It’ll start again straight away.

I took it to Cobbs Quay and the guy listened to my story and told me he wouldn’t touch it, he diagnosed “carburettor” and told me it was a common failing and not worth spending the money on a new carburettor (£175) plus his labour charge. He didn’t try to sell me a new outboard!

As I’m not reallly mechanically savvy and because the boats a quarter mile dinghy trip which is too far for a geriatric like me to row, I made the decision to buy a new outboard.

Do you have any clues as to what might be wrong and is it fixable for a reasonable amount? Do you think I should get a second opinion? I have to say I’m sure Ive read bad reports about carburettor reliability and cost iof repairs etc for the model.

This is what really really annoys me...that literally is a 2 minute job to do. A lot of dealers , not all either cant be bothered as it doesnt pay enough or havent the knowledge

 

[Steve65]

This is what really really annoys me...that literally is a 2 minute job to do. A lot of dealers , not all either cant be bothered as it doesnt pay enough of ha

Your problem is either a blocked pilot jet or a vacuum leak on the inlet.90% of the time its the former.
Unscrew the 4 screws on the top plate of the carb, you will see a black plastic bung inside. This is your pilot jet. Lever it out using 2 small screwdrivers. The bung will have a large hole through the side. The jet runs up from the bottom to join the larger holes. The size is 0.30mm. Dont bother looking to see if its clear, you wont be able to.
You need to clear the jet, but most importantly do not enlarge the jet and its only soft plastic. When cleaned blow through with carb cleaner, check the o ring is still present and put it back together , change the carb gasket if looking worn, cardboard home made is absolutely fine.
Hope this helps someone

 

[C08]

It is a very quick and normally cheap to have the carb US cleaned. I am surprised the dealer would not try that for you.

 

[Steve65]

I have a US cleaner and have never ever used it to clean a carb...jets in bulk yes .
You need to strip the carb to do a proper US job, why waste 15 mins ultrasonic cleaning when you can do the job in seconds.
Two Common untrue myths....
1 seafoam will clean your carb
2 Dropping your carb in a US cleaner will guarantee it being cleaned

 

[robmcg]

I tried starting it on Friday and with the choke on, it starts at second pull, however pushing the choke back in stops it immediately as does throttling it up with the choke out! Essentially, it’ll tick over at just above idle with the choke out - anything else and it won’t run. It’ll start again straight away.

I had exactly the same issue last year with the exact same outboard. I can echo what has already been said and the two things that solved the issue were
1. A good carb clean, especially the little black plastic jet in the top of the carb. That was blocked on mine.
2. E5 super unleaded fuel. These outboards just won't run for long on ordinary E10 unleaded. The fuel is so hygroscopic that in short order the carb is sucking water. The ethanol content also attacks the aluminium in the carb.

The carb is incredibly simple and can be tackled by anyone with a couple of basic tools. Go for it .

 

[Steve65]

I had exactly the same issue last year with the exact same outboard. I can echo what has already been said and the two things that solved the issue were
1. A good carb clean, especially the little black plastic jet in the top of the carb. That was blocked on mine.
2. E5 super unleaded fuel. These outboards just won't run for long on ordinary E10 unleaded. The fuel is so hygroscopic that in short order the carb is sucking water. The ethanol content also attacks the aluminium in the carb.

The carb is incredibly simple and can be tackled by anyone with a couple of basic tools. Go for it .

They run perfectly well on e10.and will not cause corrosion...IF manufacturers guidelines are stuck to and float bowls are drained when being left more than a few days

 

[jamie N]

I always turn the fuel off to let the engine run dry, and if I'm not planning on using it in the near future, I empty the carb. to drain the small, remaining amount. This carb. drain is very accessible with a small 10mm. socket, through a designed gap in the body of the motor.
A 10 second job.
I don't know what @Steve65 thinks, but my yearly servicing is a new plug, an oil change with fresh oil top & bottom at about 100 hours, and a bit of grease around the bracket at least once a year, along with the above carb. routine on a daily basis.
I spray & wipe it with WD40 every time I've the top off of the motor, or on a bench for any reason.
I reckon that the motor's got over 1000 hours, is as reliable as it ever was from the factory, and none of the fasteners are seized.

​

 

[Steve65]

That sounds perfect, part of a major service at around 300 hours is a valve adjustment, if your fasteners are ok its an easy job.
I Used to do some work for a guy that ran these engines on bumper boats. Most of his engines were 15 years old. Used to wear out gearbox seals and throttle cables regularly, but engine wise still ran like a swiss watch....not bad for alloy cylinder liners and nylon cams

 

[robmcg]

They run perfectly well on e10.and will not cause corrosion...IF manufacturers guidelines are stuck to and float bowls are drained when being left more than a few days

Sadly, mine won't run consistently on E10, even when the bowl is drained after use. I have been told by two different outboard servicing places not to use E10 in the engine due to the hygroscopic nature of the ethanol content. The ethanol also started to eat the tube where the main jet sits at the very end. Never had this issue when it ran on just E5 super unleaded.

 

[Sandy]

My 2015 Honda 2.3 outboard has been condemned by the outboard engineer at Cobbs Quay. Apparently requires a new carburettor plus labour an can’t guarantee longevity of repair even after that. So I think it’s sensible for me to buy a new outboard for the tender/dinghy. What do forumites recommend as a reliable replacement? I can’t afford an electric one before anyone suggests that option.

Thanks in advance,

I'd replace your outboard mechanic.

 

[Mark-1]

As everyone else says this is going to be utterly trivial to fix, that mechanic just didn't want the work.

If you regard the engine as scrap anyway, why not buy some carb cleaner, watch a youtube video on cleaning the carb and see how you get on cleaning and diagnosing it yourself? It'll be two bolts to take it off, it's not rocket science.

After an 11 month stand you might find new fuel alone fixes your problem.

(It won't need a new carb, but if it did, new chinese carbs for my 5hp 2T Mariner are £70 on ebay, I'd guess yours would be the same.)

 

[Wandering Star]

Rather defeatist solution but I needed an outboard this week so bought a Mercury 3.5 to replace the Honda which I’ve now sold for £150. I did receive a second quotation to fix the Honda of £270. I very much appreciate all the advice provided here and I got as far as taking the Cowl off only to be faced with the prospect of having to undo countless bolts in order to dig further into the engine itself - I know my limitations so decided not to wreck the engine but leave it to someone else.

PS - I am quite handy with bigger (inboard) type engines!