Autoterm vs Eberbasto

I'm not happy with the Autoterm 'Confort Controller. If I use POWER mode the heat output at max is fine. Use it in Temperature mode ie set to increase from where you are to where you want to be, and it doesn't try half as hard. I would expect it to go flat out then taper off as it gets there. It doesn't seem to do that, just dawdle along so it takes forever. I asked them about microcode updates and temp curves but they just wanted pictures of my installation.

This isn’t the first time I’ve read this and tbh is probably the thing that has stopped me ordering up until this point.

My old Eber (in a camper van 10+ years ago) used to work beautifully. It would run flat out for a while and then when getting close to the right temperature would slow down, eventually to just ticking over so it stays alight but burns barely any fuel & used barely any power. Then would gradually ramp back up, to full power if it needed to and repeat.
 
I'm not happy with the Autoterm 'Confort Controller. If I use POWER mode the heat output at max is fine. Use it in Temperature mode ie set to increase from where you are to where you want to be, and it doesn't try half as hard. I would expect it to go flat out then taper off as it gets there. It doesn't seem to do that, just dawdle along so it takes forever. I asked them about microcode updates and temp curves but they just wanted pictures of my installation.

I haven't yet got my Autoterm up and running yet, but if it operates as you describe it would be disappointing, but I don't think it wouldn't trouble me greatly to use POWER mode to gun it up to temperature and then switch to TEMPERATURE mode.

How old is your Comfort Controller, though? I note that the manual for it (dating from 2023, apparently) mentions in a footnote it has a new algorithm in that TEMPERATURE mode (since when, I wonder?). It isn't clear what the difference is between the old and new algorithms, but perhaps it addresses the issue you mention? It does say (maybe it did previously?) that the power is lowered as it approaches the target temperature, implying it would have been at a higher power previous to this.

(Relevant text from the Manual currently on the Autoterm Store website below)

Heating modes for air heaters:

TEMPERATURE MODE –
Heater will maintain set temperature by reducing the heating power, without shutting off the combustion process.(*)
*The temperature mode for Air 2D 12/24V and 4D 12/24V heaters in the 6355, 6350, 6260, and 6265 series versions have a new algorithm. In this mode, the heater acts normally by lowering power when it gets near the set temperature. However, if it goes past the temperature setpoint, the heater will turn off and wait until the temperature drops by 3 degrees below temperature setpoint before starting again.

POWER MODE –
Heater will operate constantly at set power level.

HEAT + VENTILATION –
Heater will operate till the temperature is reached 1°C above the set temperature, shut off the combustion process and start to ventilate till the temperature drops 5°C below the set temperature. When temperature drops, heating starts again.

THERMOSTAT MODE –
Heater will operate till the specified temperature is reached then shuts off the combustion process and ventilation. After the temperature drops by specified degrees heating will start again.
 
What I hated about the Eber D2 in my van was that it would reach desired cabin temperature and then stop pumping fuel and just run the fan for a bit. When the temp dropped again on came the pump AND the glow plug sucking up my precious amp/hours. I much prefer the Chinaspacher approach where you just set a constant fuel pump rate and it sits at that output for as long as you like. Uses more fuel but much less battery power and gives you a nice constant temperature.
 
This isn’t the first time I’ve read this and tbh is probably the thing that has stopped me ordering up until this point.

My old Eber (in a camper van 10+ years ago) used to work beautifully. It would run flat out for a while and then when getting close to the right temperature would slow down, eventually to just ticking over so it stays alight but burns barely any fuel & used barely any power. Then would gradually ramp back up, to full power if it needed to and repeat.
This is exactly how my Autoterm works with the comfort controller.
 
Has anyone used the Autoterm push button control switch linked to the comfort controller? I have the comfort controller in the main saloon and thinking of putting a push button switch in the forward cabin so I can switch the heater on from bed :D. Just wondered if anyone had experience of this setup?
 
Has anyone used the Autoterm push button control switch linked to the comfort controller? I have the comfort controller in the main saloon and thinking of putting a push button switch in the forward cabin so I can switch the heater on from bed :D. Just wondered if anyone had experience of this setup?
I doubt that would work, but have a word with Owen at Autoterm UK

www.autoterm.store
 
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Also a more “dumb” solution… the wiring diagram shows a “car alarm relay” connection which I think can be connected to a switch that will turn the heater on (presumably to the previous setting?)
 
Yep. Doesn’t look great.

Cheap though, probably for a reason…

Edit: Based in Turkey.

If it looks too good to be true etc…
 
Last edited:
Yep. Doesn’t look great.

Cheap though, probably for a reason…

Edit: Based in Turkey.

If it looks too good to be true etc…

I think it is actually legitimate. As in plenty of people have brought off them and the goods were delivered. The regional pricing is just lower in Turkey and they are taking advantage of it.

However, it’s still a chunk more expensive than an Autoterm and I don’t think it’s worth it.

For me the problem with the Chinese heaters is that the companies selling them are all so illegitimate. I spend my life trying to run a proper business where our products meet all the required safety standards, CE / UKCA, EMC, PL insurance etc at huge cost.

It feels almost hypocritical to then go and buy a diesel heater with no CE marking where the seller does not give a flying f***.
 
However, it’s still a chunk more expensive than an Autoterm and I don’t think it’s worth it.

It is a chunk but not as much of a chunk as I was expecting… Autoterm aren’t as cheap as they used to be.

£894 vs £1,099 for the comparable Eber with 3 outlets from the Turkish place.

If it was only £200 difference from a legit seller I’d probably go for it but I’m pretty sure it’ll be a fair bit more than that.

(I’m working night shifts and have too much time to plot, plan and research 🤣)
 
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