Auto bilge pumps. Are they all crap nowadays

There is hardly anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse and sell a little cheaper, and the people who consider price only are this man's lawful prey.
John Ruskin
Translated.
There is nothing in this world that somebody cannot make cheaper and nastier.

. . . to the point where it doesn't even do the job it's intended for.
 
Maybe get a boat monitoring setup. I have one that signals via the marina WiFi. It transmits battery voltage and bilge pump usage amongst other things to the cloud. I can view graphs of usage at any time and I get an email if the bilge pump runs more than some user set number of times per day, The one I have is quite basic (by FloatHub) but works well.
 
Hi
Bought a seaflow G600 auto bilge pump and it would not prime to pump and then when it did it would not shut off. Put it down to bring crap.
Bought another brand but 4 times the price. Does not pump and then when it does it won’t shut off.
Are they all the same with a different logo. Anyone else found this. Never had problems in the past.
Steveeasy
Bilge pumps and their switches are universally awful as you suggest. I think someone who makes a never-fail product will clean the market out completely.
 
Interested to know why this is the case.

We have a single Whale auto bilge pump in our commercial RIB, it lives in the bottom of the transom well which inevitably gets full of water on every trip. It has a solid state water sensor which switches on when it detects it is immersed in water. The auto mode had not worked for about 3 years and I suspected the sensor had failed, because the manual mode still worked fine. It's only when I got around to replacing the whole pump (a relatively easy job) that I realised the wire for the auto mode had broken in the loom. I installed the new one anyway and the auto mode works. We now leave the pump on auto while we are underway and switch it off while berthed (the RIB lives in a floating dock and has elephant trunks).
I think it's to do with not pumping dirty bilge water in the sea.
 
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My recent experience of a boat full of tonnes of salt water would suggest in an emergency the most reliable pump and effective built in water movers are the manual whale pumps.
They operate very well as they induce a good flow and a slight syphon effect and don't have pump protection filters.

The standard bilge pump and shower pumps operated for a very short time before their output was minimised by the blocking of the inline filters with floating debris and muddy silt contents from the sea bed.

If you want to shift large volumes of incoming water a salvage pump is essential unless you can bung the hole quickly. I did consider removing the engine cooling intake pipe and using engine as pump. It would have been impractical so fitting a tee and valve might be a good idea for an added alternative pump source providing engine power might outlast battery depletion in an offshore emergency.

The biggest problem with salvage pumps is priming.
Maintaining a good flow to it is essential as flow from limber holes is less than its ability to suck resulting in repriming etc.

Finally when you do get to a point where bilge pumps have stopped you will still find lots of places where water is stranded.

I have spent two days with a pela extractor removing over 150 litres of water from such cavities.

A clean bilge with no debris will help save your boat. Floating bedding will kill even a salvage pump.
 
Unfortunately not a great business model, create reliable product and demand will decrease and then you go bust. Far better to have one that fails and needs replacing..
Oh dear, and remind me which British Leyland division did you worked for before you lost your job?
 
I did consider removing the engine cooling intake pipe and using engine as pump. It would have been impractical so fitting a tee and valve might be a good idea for an added alternative pump source providing engine power might outlast battery depletion in an offshore emergency.

I've considered doing this but the flow rate doesn't warrant the complexity. My Yanmar 2GM20F will pump 12 litres/minute at cruising RPM. Perhaps it's a viable strategy for motorboats, or bigger sailboats, but in my case it just doesn't seem like it would make any sort of difference in an emergency.
 
Unfortunately not a great business model, create reliable product and demand will decrease and then you go bust. Far better to have one that fails and needs replacing..


The age old Light Bulb myth !!

There's an old story that Phillips developed the never fail light bulb - then locked it away to prevent others gaining tech of it. BS story of course ... but still makes a good 'un when at a party.
 
My recent experience of a boat full of tonnes of salt water would suggest in an emergency the most reliable pump and effective built in water movers are the manual whale pumps.
They operate very well as they induce a good flow and a slight syphon effect and don't have pump protection filters.

The standard bilge pump and shower pumps operated for a very short time before their output was minimised by the blocking of the inline filters with floating debris and muddy silt contents from the sea bed.

If you want to shift large volumes of incoming water a salvage pump is essential unless you can bung the hole quickly. I did consider removing the engine cooling intake pipe and using engine as pump. It would have been impractical so fitting a tee and valve might be a good idea for an added alternative pump source providing engine power might outlast battery depletion in an offshore emergency.

The biggest problem with salvage pumps is priming.
Maintaining a good flow to it is essential as flow from limber holes is less than its ability to suck resulting in repriming etc.

Finally when you do get to a point where bilge pumps have stopped you will still find lots of places where water is stranded.

I have spent two days with a pela extractor removing over 150 litres of water from such cavities.

A clean bilge with no debris will help save your boat. Floating bedding will kill even a salvage pump.

Your toilet bowl is actually a very good pump .... with a bung and pipe rammed into the bottom ....

It's said that a panicking person with bucket can move water faster than a bilge pump !!
 
Has anyone tried a washing machine pressure switch for a bilge pump switch? Some years ago someone repackaged them and sold them in chandleries for bilge pumps. They seem to work quite reliably on washing machines and have the advantage that there is no contact with the dirty bilge water. I salvaged one from my last defunct washing machine and was going to give it a try.
Indesit-Washing-Machine-Pressure-Switch-74971-.JPG
 
Driftin from duff electric pumps..
On a 'trawler' yacht from Hong Kong, both engines had whale belt driven clutched pumps. Incredibal amount of water shifted and at quite high pressure. 'Someone' left the Y valve in the wrong position and it extruded out the brass hose connection from the valve body, not to mention an awfull lot of water hosing about the engine room.
 
Has anyone tried a washing machine pressure switch for a bilge pump switch? Some years ago someone repackaged them and sold them in chandleries for bilge pumps. They seem to work quite reliably on washing machines and have the advantage that there is no contact with the dirty bilge water. I salvaged one from my last defunct washing machine and was going to give it a try.
Indesit-Washing-Machine-Pressure-Switch-74971-.JPG
That occured to me too, as they measure quite small differences in level. But, would they start pumping at the set level, then stop at a slightly lower one? Might need a delay system built in. Possible more reliable, as they last for years with daily use, and, in my experience, rarely the item that lets the machine down.
 
My recent experience of a boat full of tonnes of salt water would suggest in an emergency the most reliable pump and effective built in water movers are the manual whale pumps.
They operate very well as they induce a good flow and a slight syphon effect and don't have pump protection filters.

The standard bilge pump and shower pumps operated for a very short time before their output was minimised by the blocking of the inline filters with floating debris and muddy silt contents from the sea bed.

If you want to shift large volumes of incoming water a salvage pump is essential unless you can bung the hole quickly. I did consider removing the engine cooling intake pipe and using engine as pump. It would have been impractical so fitting a tee and valve might be a good idea for an added alternative pump source providing engine power might outlast battery depletion in an offshore emergency.

The biggest problem with salvage pumps is priming.
Maintaining a good flow to it is essential as flow from limber holes is less than its ability to suck resulting in repriming etc.

Finally when you do get to a point where bilge pumps have stopped you will still find lots of places where water is stranded.

I have spent two days with a pela extractor removing over 150 litres of water from such cavities.

A clean bilge with no debris will help save your boat. Floating bedding will kill even a salvage pump.

Your toilet bowl is actually a very good pump .... with a bung and pipe rammed into the bottom ....

It's said that a panicking person with bucket can move water faster than a bilge pump !!
Not if its 7 steps up in to the cockpit. Then you need to haul the bucket over the coming, then climb back down the 7 steps and start again. I suspect I Henderson mk5 can move more and save you the climb and risk of falling when slightly stressed😅
 
Has anyone tried a washing machine pressure switch for a bilge pump switch? Some years ago someone repackaged them and sold them in chandleries for bilge pumps. They seem to work quite reliably on washing machines and have the advantage that there is no contact with the dirty bilge water. I salvaged one from my last defunct washing machine and was going to give it a try.
Indesit-Washing-Machine-Pressure-Switch-74971-.JPG
Yes. I've used an identical one to your picture to make a water level sensor and it has worked reliably for 7 years. Mine just triggers an alarm and red light but add a relay to switch a pump. Mine is mounted 600mm above the bilge so it never gets wet and is connected to a length of 13mm bore garden hose that goes down to the lowest place. It switches on when the water is 100mm deep which works well for me as a safety alarm. I expect the trigger level can be changed using those adjusting screws.

www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
 
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