Araldite, Uses

Croak

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Seems to have done quite well at sticking the friction material back onto the boat trailer brake shoes. I wonder weather it will take the heat. How good is it under water for gel coat repairs?
 
I afraid it won't last 5 minutes with your brakes. The heat will soften and weaken the glue.

As for using it as a filler: rather expensive way to do it ... and it will probably run out of the hole as it is intended to be a glue not a filler.
 
I afraid it won't last 5 minutes with your brakes. The heat will soften and weaken the glue.

As for using it as a filler: rather expensive way to do it ... and it will probably run out of the hole as it is intended to be a glue not a filler.

It is good for small chips, like dinghy rudders.
I mix in a bit of glass or filler.
I'd be worried about the brakes, the linings may let go, and then jam the wheel.
Years ago, I had some motorbike brake shoes relined, it was not expensive IIRC, try the classic bike/car trade?
 
After doing some research, it looks like it will start to degrade at 65 degrees C :(

Ah well £50 to buy some brake parts.
 
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I've used it for loads of stuff including fixing a hose spigot on a car radiator and sealing a leak on a kettle spout. It works when superglue fails.
 
Bought a syringe of epoxy glue at the Pound Shop yesterday for ..... a pound. Smells and looks and acts just like the stuff at Homebase that costs £5.45. Except I think the Pound Shop one is bigger.
 
Araldite is just another epoxy. It tends to be a bit thicker than some epoxies which can be useful. Araldite will go more runny if warmed up.
Re Araldite in brakes as said to get Araldite or any epoxy to let go after hardening you heat it up. So no good for real heat. You can get some epoxies that are better with heat but only a bit higher temp than standard epoxy.
Araldite is perfect for under water hull repairs. As is any epoxy. Fill with microballoons chopped glass or talcum powder to make it thicker if it tends to run out.
Araldite around here comes in standard or 5 minute Araldite. I don't think the fast cure 5 min stuff is any where near as good as standard stuff but might be useful if you are in a hurry. Don't try to use any epoxy when it is cold. keep it warm until it hardens. good luck olewill
 
I buy a couple of twin-syringe epoxy glues when they crop up in Lidl.
They are very handy for small jobs and when getting the West epoxy, catylist, filler, mixing cup, stirry stick is just a pain.
However, no use where exposed to sunlight. It degrades after half a seaon in UV.
 
I buy a couple of twin-syringe epoxy glues when they crop up in Lidl.
They are very handy for small jobs and when getting the West epoxy, catylist, filler, mixing cup, stirry stick is just a pain.
However, no use where exposed to sunlight. It degrades after half a seaon in UV.

And a lot cheaper that buying a half litre of West epoxy and leaving most of it to go off in a cupboard.
 
My godfather once broke a crucially important tooth - the one on which he balanced his pipe. As he was sailing and a few days away from conventional dentistry at the time, he stuck it back together with araldite. This proved to be entirely fit for purpose and, when he eventually went to have it sorted out properly, he reported with some satisfaction that the dentist had said that it was the devil's own job to undo the temporary fix.
 
I was once lead to believe that Araldite would cure to a harder, more heat resistant form if heated / baked whilst setting. I have not ever tried or understood how or why, but this guy was convinced and had practical examples to "prove" it.
 
Many years ago I found that heating araldite and the two surfaces would frequently make a decent bond between two surfaces, that would not bond if the araldite and surfaces remained at room temperature. One example was the rear quarterlight on the capri was fixed in place by a metal fitting that was bonded on the rear end of the glass. The front fitting (=hinge) was just loose fitted and relied on the rear fitting to remain located. Two attempts whilst at room temperature failed. I heated it all in the oven up to the max recommended, and the resulting bond was still good 5 years later when I sold the car.
 
After doing some research, it looks like it will start to degrade at 65 degrees C

Best way of looking at it is that its strength peaks at 40 - 60 deg C. At 100 deg C its strength has fallen to about that at room temperature.

My previous old engine developed a (hot) water leak. I applied Araldite and never saw any moisture there again for the remaining years.
 
Moved the boat today, the brakes stayed intact, but the jockey wheel melted, shouldn't have left it down....
 
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