Antares 760 thread

[jakew009]

Quick question.... I've got a leaking tap at the connection of my calorifier and the accumulator...
It only happens when the engine is running. I've put a bucket underneath for the time being.
It's the grey tap with the red tape over the end the pic (for identification).

Am i right in thinking this is because the accumulator needs re-pressurising or is broken and needs replacement?
Or any other likely culprits.
It's only started to do it recently and otherwise everything else works fine.

It's one of these - Jabsco Accumulator Tank - 1 Litre | Force 4 Chandlery

Thanks

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That might be one of the naff accumulators that works by having a bubble of air sat on top of the water. But the air eventually just dissolves into the water rendering it ineffective.

I’d replace it with a proper bladder accumulator and never have to worry about it again.

 

[Plum]

That might be one of the naff accumulators that works by having a bubble of air sat on top of the water. But the air eventually just dissolves into the water rendering it ineffective.

I’d replace it with a proper bladder accumulator and never have to worry about it again.

That one does have a bladder.

 

[zikzik]

My LS windlass is now off the boat and caput (seized bearings etc. not worth attempting a repair). Its clear very few alternatives will fit without surgery to the fibreglass. The Quest looks the best fit but at circa £1900, expensive.
Has anyone on here fitted a new windlass? If so what, and how easy was it?

 

[tomaz_slo]

My LS windlass is now off the boat and caput (seized bearings etc. not worth attempting a repair). Its clear very few alternatives will fit without surgery to the fibreglass. The Quest looks the best fit but at circa £1900, expensive.
Has anyone on here fitted a new windlass? If so what, and how easy was it?

If your gypsy is for 8mm chain, would you sell it to me?

 

[Plum]

My LS windlass is now off the boat and caput (seized bearings etc. not worth attempting a repair). Its clear very few alternatives will fit without surgery to the fibreglass. The Quest looks the best fit but at circa £1900, expensive.
Has anyone on here fitted a new windlass? If so what, and how easy was it?

Two options were highlighted in posts 325 and 328

 

[zikzik]

If your gypsy is for 8mm chain, would you sell it to me?

If and when I get the old, stripped unit back, certainly.

 

[Plum]

If and when I get the old, stripped unit back, certainly.

And I am interested in the housing

 

[zikzik]

Ok. So, I’ve asked the guy dealing with it, to bring it all to me. I’d like to play with it, it got seized bearings apparently. Its certainly rock solid! Its not a viable repair, but my time’s free!! In any event, its 21 years old and I am looking at a replacement. He thinks a base plate makes the choice easier. I agree, there’s no straight fit like a LR. The Quick Hector and Lofrans Razza are the likely candidates. He likes Lewmar horizontal as he’s found them very reliable, but the motor overhang makes for too much plastic surgery.
I’ll have a play before letting the cover and gypsy go. I post an update here first for you both.

 

[tomaz_slo]

Third option is also Maxwell HRC10-8.

 

[zikzik]

Third option is also Maxwell HRC10-8.

Thanks. Its a similar price to the Quick Hector, but more powerfull!

 

[Pleinmont]

The one with the red tape and the little black lever on top is the pressure relief valve. I assume the leak is from the little pipe with the red tape. First, check the valve is sealing correctly and there is no crud under the seal. Do this, ideally when you have a tank of hot water, by gently operating that little black leaver to release some pressure and a little water out of the pipe with the red tape around it. Doing this can often dislodge anything stopping the seal inside from sealing perfectly. That pressure relief valve is a safety device to prevent over-pressure. If that does not stop it leaking it may, but unlikely, be faulty, or as you say, the accumulator pressure needs adjusting. I don't have an accumulator so my pressure relief valve does let a little hot water out occasionally through a short flex hose into a half litre plastic bottle. This just means I empty the bottle a few times each year.

Hi Plum and Jake
Sorry delay responding - notifications went to junk Thanks for the advice. I did a bit more investigation.
Yes that accumulator has a bladder according to the manual - I pressed the valve and no water came out (just air) so pumped a little bit more air back in.
Also took the tape off, wiggled the pressure relief lever when the tank was hot and flushed some water through.
I've left a bucket under there to catch any water but since doing the above it's been behaving itself again (2 trips out that fully heated the calorifier tank up, ran the taps and cold water tank full).
So far so good. Might have been crud affecting the relief valve by the looks of it.

One less job to do - esp as the anchor windlass needs attention again red release button works but the black retrieve is now dead.
I replaced both a couple of years ago so hopefully just a dead switch that needs swapping out.

 

[Plum]

Hi Plum and Jake
Sorry delay responding - notifications went to junk Thanks for the advice. I did a bit more investigation.
Yes that accumulator has a bladder according to the manual - I pressed the valve and no water came out (just air) so pumped a little bit more air back in.
Also took the tape off, wiggled the pressure relief lever when the tank was hot and flushed some water through.
I've left a bucket under there to catch any water but since doing the above it's been behaving itself again (2 trips out that fully heated the calorifier tank up, ran the taps and cold water tank full).
So far so good. Might have been crud affecting the relief valve by the looks of it.

One less job to do - esp as the anchor windlass needs attention again red release button works but the black retrieve is now dead.
I replaced both a couple of years ago so hopefully just a dead switch that needs swapping out.

Thanks for the feedback, that was easy. After I put 2 new switches on top of my anchor windlass I made a fabric cover that goes over the whole winch for when I am not using the boat. Keeps the UV off the switches which is what, in my experience, deteriorates the rubbery buttons which then allows water into the microswitch below. Switches are still good after 8 years. Edit: just checked, it was 10 years ago!

 

[Pleinmont]

Yes I probably should get a windlass cover to keep the UV off the buttons.
The old buttons had leaks when I replaced them a couple years ago but being originals were probably better quality than the cheap ebay ones I used.
No doubt the replacements now need replacing again

 

[zikzik]

I promised I would get back to you guys about LR winch parts. Well, I’ve now got all the bits and have been examining it all. The switches are possibly done for, but the pinion is sound and smooth. The motor however was nearly solid, just a bit of shaft movement with a spanner. By chance my son came around while I was cleaning and thought the motor probably had either magnet or brush dislocated, and suggested I take it to the auto electrical company he started working life with.
Examination has determined all eight magnets have come away. The brushes are like new and the rest easily repairable. So its going to be £280 plus vat to do. Which now sounds much better then the £1805 recently quoted for a currently non existent Quick Heckter 700w. Or non existent Razza at a bit less.
Its been suggested I blank the switches off and use a wireless remote?

 

[Plum]

I promised I would get back to you guys about LR winch parts. Well, I’ve now got all the bits and have been examining it all. The switches are possibly done for, but the pinion is sound and smooth. The motor however was nearly solid, just a bit of shaft movement with a spanner. By chance my son came around while I was cleaning and thought the motor probably had either magnet or brush dislocated, and suggested I take it to the auto electrical company he started working life with.
Examination has determined all eight magnets have come away. The brushes are like new and the rest easily repairable. So its going to be £280 plus vat to do. Which now sounds much better then the £1805 recently quoted for a currently non existent Quick Heckter 700w. Or non existent Razza at a bit less.
Its been suggested I blank the switches off and use a wireless remote?

Thanks, good to hear of your solution. Well done. I have had my 760 for nearly 12 years and I have only used those buttons on the top of the casing 2 or 3 times as otherwise I always use the rocker switch at the helm. Having a wireless remote would be good for those few times you may want to operate the winch from the foredeck.

 

[zikzik]

Third option is also Maxwell HRC10-8.

Looks like it would fit, but over £2k to buy!

 

[zikzik]

Thanks, good to hear of your solution. Well done. I have had my 760 for nearly 12 years and I have only used those buttons on the top of the casing 2 or 3 times as otherwise I always use the rocker switch at the helm. Having a wireless remote would be good for those few times you may want to operate the winch from the foredeck.

I’m told a cheap remote off ebay is a good idea in case you drop it!
I don’t have a switch for it at the helm, is that an aftermarket item?

 

[Plum]

I don’t have a switch for it at the helm, is that an aftermarket item?

My helm switch is a simple centre off double throw switch and is wired to the relay box. Hang on, I have a wiring diagram for your LS winch somewhere...... aha here it is. You would connect the wires from the wireless remote base station to the same terminals

 

[zikzik]

Thanks Plum. That’s really useful.

 

[tomaz_slo]

I’m told a cheap remote off ebay is a good idea in case you drop it!
I don’t have a switch for it at the helm, is that an aftermarket item?

It's simple toggle switch on-off-on.