Anchoring

[benjenbav]

I think Bret was the name of a storm so probably the same as Brett above.

Thanks. I asked the question in genuine innocence, only to feel terribly guilty shortly afterwards in case it was an euphemism for the ‘B’ word that dare not speak its name in these parts.

 

[Supertramp]

Most the ingredients of successful anchoring are mentioned in other posts. A few additional points.

I have found understanding your own anchor, rode and boat is important. I recently changed from a CQR to Lewmar Epsilon and had more dragging in a few months than in a decade. I think it's because the CQR was happy chucked over and didn't need digging in whereas the Lewmar needs a reverse to set. So worth exploring your own technique with respect to your anchor and not rely on generalisations.

A bridle is a good idea and I always use an on board anchor alarm. I sleep well, except if it's very windy and I'm not convinced of the holding.

 

[14K478]

We use our boat to go to the "places ye cannae go in the bus", so spend a lot of time at anchor, and lots of time ashore. You'll find that you'll gradually become more confident, the more you anchor. Assuming that you have decent anchoring equipment, and choose sensible anchorages for the expected weather, you won't have any bother. Beware of weed on the bottom. Weed can give the impression of giving a good grip, and then fail when the winds gets up. Ideally you want to be on clean mud or sand. I use the Fishfinder facility on my plotter to give me a clear picture of the bottom.

I have left boats anchored, unattended, for periods of up to four weeks at a time, in Shetland and the Outer Isles, but admittedly that was always with two anchors in a "Bahamian Moor".
Most people now "set" their anchor using the engine, but if there's wind, it can just as easily be done under sail, and the anchor won't know the difference.

Anchoring gives you so much more choice, than moorings or pontoons. There is a lot of useful information in, for example, the CCC Sailing Directions. Highly recommended.

I agree with this answer. Particularly the bits that I have put in bold.

 

[14K478]

Most the ingredients of successful anchoring are mentioned in other posts. A few additional points.

I have found understanding your own anchor, rode and boat is important. I recently changed from a CQR to Lewmar Epsilon and had more dragging in a few months than in a decade. I think it's because the CQR was happy chucked over and didn't need digging in whereas the Lewmar needs a reverse to set. So worth exploring your own technique with respect to your anchor and not rely on generalisations.

A bridle is a good idea and I always use an on board anchor alarm. I sleep well, except if it's very windy and I'm not convinced of the holding.

Also a very good post. Explains why some of us troglodytes still carry a CQR.
The correct procedure with a CQR is "drop the anchor, drop plenty of chain, stow mainsail, make tea!"

 

[FairweatherDave]

I’m not quite sure whether you are or are not in favour of a hard reverse.

I always use hard reverse after slowly building up the throttle but never to set the anchor it’s always to test the seabed is right if a squall comes up.

I’ve been held firm just by a small rock and by an inch of sand over a rocky plateau and only had reverse revealed the weakness.

Yes, I am in favour of a hard reverse if there's any chance of the wind picking up. In the 6 out of 9 dragging night we were in Poole harbour where I believed the holding should be good. Mud I assumed but maybe quite solid mud with weed on top. Only a force 5.
(My hard reverse is only after slowly paying out the rode and later on building up the revs).

 

[david_bagshaw]

Do you set a watch? No , but sit and observe for half hour. Also rib down and depthsound the full swinging scope for shallow spots.
Are alarms useful? never found one so but never say never.
How often do you check the set of the anchor? once it is down and I am happy, never try it .
How often do you take a fix? only an eye ball fix, whenever up in the wheelhouse.
Do you leave your boat unattended, not untill at least an hour has passed.
out of sight, for how long? 3 hours for a run ashore

Oh…..and do you get any sleep? Yup sleep like a baby, I like nights at anch, best views , and so quiet , nobody else's mast noises etc.

my tips...

5 x depth of water min chain length.
places with a good stream are very good places as current holds boat steady.
if single handed, think about the getaway tomorrow , when choosing the drop point...
small compass by bed
have a plan in mind if conditions become untenable
choose your point dont be lead by the huddle of boats at anch as you come in.
do the min depth calcs carefully, as frequently the further in you can get leads to a quieter overnight..

 

[wonkywinch]

My technique is to always drop 2x depth, then run the boat slowly astern to bed the anchor then as the chain tensions, play out to the scope I want (usually 5x). I use all chain and very pleased with the make (anagram of acorn) that I've had on the last 3 boats. Without tempting fate, 100% success rate including the time the anchor dug in so nicely the boat jerked to a gentle halt, remainder of scope paid out. Only when it was time to leave did I discover I'd hooked a power cable. The signs on the shore were obscured by tree foliage and I hadn't eyeballed the chart well enough.

Ever since then, I always use a trip line with marker buoy and always allow for full fall of tide even on a short stay, you never know how long you might be stuck. Also replaced the junior hacksaw in the toolkit with a 12" one with 32tpi blade in case it ever happened again.

 

[ctva]

Adding to the info previously given, seeing as you are up here and assuming you are in the Clyde or west coast, get Antares Charts as a first step. They give confidence as to seabed, location of rock / weed and give very accurate depths.

On top of that:

New generation anchor and all chain rode - probably the biggest reason we sleep soundly at anchor and have gone cycling round Coll, Tiree and Barra as examples. Look at the anchors that are used (we got our boat at 5yo and the price ticket was still on the Delta) in the marina where you are

Circle round your point to confirm depth with any change of wind direction.

Take your time to set the anchor. I drift back (tickover if needed), pay out the chain slowly to avoid a heap. Only slowly raise the reves once set, I go to 2000rpm which is the equivelent of a F6.

Note mentally some transit checks and you will subconsiously check them from time to time. Drop a pin on the chart plotter and on your phone charts (we use Memory map with Admiralty and Antares charts).

Don't over think it and most importantly we pour a G&T as soon as set.

 

[Mark-1]

The correct procedure with a CQR is "drop the anchor, drop plenty of chain, stow mainsail, make tea!"

Works for battered Danforth copies as well.

 

[srm]

Its interesting how all the responses are very much in agreement, and nothing that I would disagree with.

So can I take the discussion a step further, anchoring when F8 plus is forecast. I have anchored quite a few times in these conditions, including at least three occasions, in Scottish waters, when the mast head anemometer was stuck against the 60kn stop for a few hours.

I carry two full sized anchors, the main one on an all chain scope, the second with a chain and multiplait nylon rode. F8 likely I lay the second anchor, geometry depends on the anchorage but generally the second anchor goes at a shallow angle to the first in the direction of expected wind shift. This is laid from the boat without disturbing the first anchor, and on a longer scope than the first anchor will have when both set. Scope is extended as long as possible within the confines of the anchorage.

The reason for different lengths of scope is due to using rope and to prevent the anchors interfering with each other should one drag. I have had one anchor drag in 60kn plus, but only for a minute or so with the boat beam on to the wind and lee deck almost under. The second anchor held and we swung back head to wind, on recovery we found the dragging anchor had reset firmly.

Having sailed a fair bit on the west coast of Norway I like being close to a steep shore with a shore line secured to windward, rarely possible in UK waters, but it does give extra security. Its worth looking for a suitable anchorage where this is possible in extreme conditions. To my mind far safer than many pontoon berths in these conditions.

 

[wonkywinch]

If anything over F6 is forecast, you will find me anchored in the local pub and the boat in a marina ;-)

 

[lustyd]

I think it's because the CQR was happy chucked over and didn't need digging in whereas the Lewmar needs a reverse to set.

It sounds like you bought the wrong size new anchor to me. Modern anchors absolutely don’t need reversing to dig in, that’s the whole point as they reset when the tide turns.
Suggest you take a long hard look at whether your new one is too large for the boat.

 

[wonkywinch]

It sounds like you bought the wrong size new anchor to me. Modern anchors absolutely don’t need reversing to dig in, that’s the whole point as they reset when the tide turns.
Suggest you take a long hard look at whether your new one is too large for the boat.

That's not what Peter Smith says ..

Drop the anchor with the boat stationary or starting to drift back with the wind or tide. Try to let the rode out consistently as the vessel drifts back,
but avoid snubbing until at least three times the water depth or more has been paid out. Although the Acorn and Spock are designed not to snag
the rode, avoid piling the chain on top of the anchor ... any wind you can just let the bow wipe off to provide the force to set the anchor; in calm conditions motor backward slowly. Be careful – all Acorn anchors set very quickly and if the bottom offers good holding, you risk damage or injury from the sudden take-up.

There are plenty of videos showing the setting procedure, all of which seem to involve a bit of reverse action to dig in. I certainly wouldn't throw everything over at once and leave a galvanised Mr Whippy on the sea bed.

Note : anchor names changed to protect the innocent

 

[14K478]

3...2...1 ... we have a standard issue anchor thread!

No idea who Peter Smith is but Eric Hiscock was quite relaxed about dumping the CQR over followed shortly by a pile of chain and leaving the boat to sort it out. As he pointed out back in 1950 in "Cruising Under Sail", the business about not dropping the chain on top of the anchor dates back to stocked anchors and related to not getting a turn of rode round the stock - the original "fouled anchor".

 

[lustyd]

That's not what Peter Smith says

No idea who that is. When the tide turns how do you reset your anchor? Do you follow the whole procedure again in the other direction?

The anchor is too big for the boat if it’s not setting or resetting. Or does your mate Peter also suggest sizing up “just in case”

 

[wonkywinch]

I was taught that it was the weight of chain that held the boat, not the anchor, the purpose of which is to stop the chain moving. My understanding was the scope on the seabed does the holding whilst the anchor keeps it in position and any turn of the tide just drags a relatively shortish length of the chain around in circles (ie you don't swing the whole length of your chain pivoting around the anchor as some people I've met believe).

Oh no, I'm contributing to one of those threads!

 

[lustyd]

I was taught that it was the weight of chain that held the boat, not the anchor, the purpose of which is to stop the chain moving. My understanding was the scope on the seabed does the holding whilst the anchor keeps it in position and any turn of the tide just drags a relatively shortish length of the chain around in circles (ie you don't swing the whole length of your chain pivoting around the anchor as some people I've met believe).

Oh no, I'm contributing to one of those threads!

Unfortunately what you were taught wasn’t based on science. We know better now so it’s good to update your understanding.

I’m hoping Neeves is ok, thought he’d be here by now!

 

[Supertramp]

It sounds like you bought the wrong size new anchor to me. Modern anchors absolutely don’t need reversing to dig in, that’s the whole point as they reset when the tide turns.
Suggest you take a long hard look at whether your new one is too large for the boat.

You could be right although not done consciously - I followed the sizing guides and went down in size from my CQR. I often use a small CQR for day anchoring and it holds fine.

My point was that you need to find what works for your combination of anchor, rode, boat and conditions. Once the wind gets above 30knts I have never been on a boat where the anchor felt oversized!

 

[lustyd]

Indeed but that’s no good if the boat is on the rocks at the turn of the tide in less than 30 knots!

 

[14K478]

Where's Neeves? Celebrating the World Cup win, perhaps?