/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Then let's hope they are taking a long holiday....... /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
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"Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity" sailroom <span style="color:red">The place to auction your previously loved boatie bits</span>
When it digs in - as yet unseen - it has been safe. But every time in Turkey, anchoring stern to having tried all the techniques above - it was ALWAYS on its side. I therfore presume this is its set position.
I now use a Manson Supreme - goes in first time every time.
CQR now a garden ornament.
I wish you CQR lovers would just give a new style anchor a try.
Apologies for not replying sooner, but we've been busy anchoring around remote places in the Aegean!
So, to reply to the question "did we drag".....we did of sorts!
After a long motor/sail from Datca to Bitez we arrived in Bitez last night at 11pm. We chose this place as a night-time anchorage because of its easy holding (mud and weed).
We attempted to anchor FIVE times, but every time we did the anchor dragged and Liz had to spend 5 minutes each time cleaning the pick of huge clumps of vegetation. We finally held, dubiously, and went ashore for a late drink and went to bed tired but relaxed. This morning Liz woke me up to tell me the anchor had dragged! We weighed anchor and this time, with the advantage of actually seeing the seabed (2-4m depth), we could locate the odd sandy spot in amongst all the weed. I am now writing this post with the confidence that we are holding in 15kn of wind but this is only because we were able to find a spot in amongst all that weed.
Bitez is normally an easy place to anchor but this recent experience is proof that the conditions of the sea bed are very important.
To Pye-End's question.....most of the time we manage to set immediately. Occasionally we have to try two times and last night was the first time we had to try a number of times, but that was entirely down to the sea bed. As KellysEye says, you can tell straight away if the anchor has bitten, it's quite obvious. When in reverse the chain 'pings' taut horizontal and the boat is pulled forwards. If it doesn't bite the chain goes horizontal, then drops, and the boat continues to move backwards (use your transits to check this). As you continue to move backwards the chain will appear to bite (goes horizontal) but then drops vertical again, which means it's biting occasionally but still dragging.
Another tip, which happens to us by accident because of Esper's inability to reverse in a straight line, is to reverse not in a straight line but to swing round slightly. If the anchor bites then as you reverse the boat will straighten up.
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I can only assume that they (anchor salesmen) are away on holiday, I just can't believe that they have given up!
[/ QUOTE ] Liz suggests that their anchors are probably dragging and are too busy resetting them to reply /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
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I wish you CQR lovers would just give a new style anchor a try.
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Like I said, this isn't a thread about comparisons of anchors. This is about anchoring with a CQR. If you want a response to this comment, however, I would suggest it's your technique.
It's easy to say 'try a new design' but unless you lend me the few hundred quid to buy me a new anchor I don't have the budget to do this. I have a CQR, it works and that's it.
My experience is that the CQR is a real pig to get it to set, but once it does it seems to be more or less reliable.
When I have trouble setting the CQR I sometimes give up and switch to Bruce, which bites straight away. I can well believe, indeed would expect, that more modern designs are MUCH better at biting than the CQR, but for budget reasons and 'cos it fits the bow roller, I'll stick with the CQR for the foreseeable future.
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My experience is that the CQR is a real pig to get it to set, but once it does it seems to be more or less reliable.
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Pretty much my experience as well. The key for me has been to do everything very slowly...wait 'till boat has stopped, lower anchor until it's on the bottom, wait for wind to move it backwards (not the engine), pay out required scope "feeling" the chain for dragging, have a cup of tea, put the engine into reverse tick-over (finish tea), add a few revs (wash tea cup), add few more revs, feel the anchor chain again, if all OK gradually work-up to full rpm. Check if chain is bar tight, switch off engine and set anchor watch on GPS. Make second cup of tea. I actually use this this same technique whatever the anchor type, but it is more necessary with CQR and Bruce types IMHO.
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wait for wind to move it backwards (not the engine)
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I've tried this a few times but I have a problem with both the wind blowing the bows sideways and Esper not reversing in a straight line very well. I'm constantly battling with the helm to keep her in a straight line. Just my inexperience I guess...I'm getting better each time we anchor. However, like I said above, sometimes reversing in an arc can be a good way to see if the anchor has set correctly, but that's just me trying to justify not being able to reverse in a straight line /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
How many cups of tea do you get through when anchoring????
One is usually enough /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif except a few weeks back when a neighbouring boat "drifted" back on me. My fault really..I hadn't noticed that he was lying to the tide with the wind aft, so he was in fact over or in front of his anchor. As the wind dropped he came back on his scope. So up all chain and anchor and do it all again (with tea of course!)
>I have a problem with both the wind blowing the bows sideways and Esper not reversing in a straight line very well.
We do the same and it's good news rather than bad - we drift back sideways and if the anchor digs in the bows come up into wind, making it very obvious that it has set.
Yes, I was just thinking what I've done when on boats that tend to blow off. I think paying the chain out slowly helps because even if the anchor is not fully set it provides enough resistance to snub the bow and bring her back up to the wind. I'm sure there are situations when the engine is best, but if can use the wind I do. Probably comes from my early days when the RYA courses taught us to anchor under sail.
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The key for me has been to do everything very slowly...wait 'till boat has stopped, lower anchor until it's on the bottom, wait for wind to move it backwards (not the engine), pay out required scope "feeling" the chain for dragging, have a cup of tea, put the engine into reverse tick-over (finish tea), add a few revs (wash tea cup), add few more revs, feel the anchor chain again, if all OK gradually work-up to full rpm. Check if chain is bar tight, switch off engine and set anchor watch on GPS. Make second cup of tea. I actually use this this same technique whatever the anchor type, but it is more necessary with CQR and Bruce types IMHO. That pretty much exactly describes what I do too. With the CQR especially you have to be gentle, increase the pull gradually and use a decent scope while setting it or it gets offended.
A wiki is an encyclopaedia that anyone can update. In this instance it's a boating/sailing encyclopaedia that you can add to or update/change on anything sailing related. For example you can go to the section on anchorages in Turkey and add new details on an anchorage you have visited. Or if you have just done some work on your engine you may wish to add an essay on what work you did.
The idea of a wiki is that you can add/edit pages on any sailing related subject that you feel you can contribute to, thus sharing your information/knowledge on subjects that other sailors may find interesting or useful.
With the FTB Wiki you don't have to subscribe or sign up or anything. Just find a page or a section and add or edit your own experiences/information. It's just a way of sharing information and storing it in a place that anyone can access. The problem with forums is that information on sailing is often repeated and contradicted - with a wiki you can add to the library of information and edit a page over and over again until a general consensus is found.
Use the link in my signature and take a look. It's early days but you can see how easy it is to update/change or create a new page within a section like 'boat maintenance'. Create a new essay on 'changing an oil filter', for example, and other visitors can come along and 'improve' or change the essay if they feel they can better the information. You can upload images too.
A wiki is just a way of sharing information that anyone can edit/add to or change, without the complication of signing up or subscribing to. Give it a go, it's really easy!
My boat doesn't have any power when under motor going backwards so I just throw the pick ('pick' is a generic anchor term by the way) over and let the boat blow back on it. It is easy to feel the rode sliding over the seabed and then the anchor starting to bite. Once I feel the bite I cleat off and all is done.
If it's looking at going bad (30kts plus or waves) I'll throw whatever little horsepower at it just to make sure the pick is heading down and leave it at that.
I sail at anchor like you wouldn't believe so that sets the pick well and truely.
No problems to date. Currently not using a CQR but did the same when I was. The key to CQR's is back slowly, very slowly until you feel the bite then apply motor a bit.