Anchor swivel

I'm happy about that. Their test data shows the Osculati Twist failed at 4.39 tonnes, while DIN766 8mm chain must have an Ultimate Tensile Strength of 4.03 tonnes and a SWL of 1 tonne, so my Twist is more than up to the job.

The American Boat and Yacht Council recommendations for a 40' X 14' mobo are 136kgf pull for a lunch hook, 544kgf for a working anchor and 1088kgf for a storm anchor, so on that basis as we're 39' x 12.5' we're nicely set up. That report does make me question the rest of my shackles, however...
 
Personally I dont trust swivels, maybe I am paranoid ?

An interesting thread from another forum brought up http://coxengineering.co.uk/vyv.aspx

On the lowest of the top tool bar scroll along the light blue tool bar for all the bits on anchoring.

Its worth a read.

Thanks for the link
However, the second tab has this comment:-
Many swivels on sale in chandleries are unsafe and should not be used. The best ones, e.g. Kong, Osculati, and others, are as strong as the chain they are used with. Others are not.
I believe that "The Twist" is made by Osculati and as I say above, it looks very robust.

I'm not worried about it failing whilst the anchor is deployed - it seems to me that the load is far greater when recovering the anchor.

Graham - thanks for the comment, I'll see if I've got any more of my little plastic thingies at mark the top of the chain - good idea.
 
I'm happy about that. Their test data shows the Osculati Twist failed at 4.39 tonnes, while DIN766 8mm chain must have an Ultimate Tensile Strength of 4.03 tonnes and a SWL of 1 tonne, so my Twist is more than up to the job.

The American Boat and Yacht Council recommendations for a 40' X 14' mobo are 136kgf pull for a lunch hook, 544kgf for a working anchor and 1088kgf for a storm anchor, so on that basis as we're 39' x 12.5' we're nicely set up. That report does make me question the rest of my shackles, however...

I didnt see that test at first look, Graham
They dont actually call it "The Twist" but I'm sure you are right.
However, the one in the test is for 8mm chain - the smaller one - I bought the larger one - about twice the physical size.

Edit: see here
twist_007_S.jpg


Mike
 
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Found myself with a cool beer in my hand and the wind too strong to go out so it seemed a good time to fit the new swivel.

Here's the result.

DSC02169_Small.jpg


DSC02171_Small.jpg


And then I thought I'd give it a quick test to see if it actually recovered an inverted anchor - it did!!!

 
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And then I thought I'd give it a quick test to see if it actually recovered an inverted anchor - it did!!!
Wow, I'm not a swiwels' fan, but this one looks indeed effective, on such rigging.

As an aside, I can't guess the reason for that lines arrangement...? :)
 
As an aside, I can't guess the reason for that lines arrangement...? :)


You would have to be a UK boater to understand :)

Although we are in the Med, we have UK style (alongside) pontoons - makes us really feel at home!!

I like to double up on lines (I had one fray right through last year) so each bow cleat has a bow line - maybe that makes things a little cleared.
 
Found myself with a cool beer in my hand and the wind too strong to go out so it seemed a good time to fit the new swivel.

Here's the result.

DSC02169_Small.jpg


DSC02171_Small.jpg


And then I thought I'd give it a quick test to see if it actually recovered an inverted anchor - it did!!!



Dusty know. MF's anchor does just as yours in the film. I recon it's cos it's a big old plough, so the heavy end automatically ends up at the bottom. Recon yer twisty thingy is altering the center of gravity, so instead of a posh one, it's been made old fashioned with a heavy bottom that works.:D
 
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You would have to be a UK boater to understand :)

Although we are in the Med, we have UK style (alongside) pontoons - makes us really feel at home!!

I like to double up on lines (I had one fray right through last year) so each bow cleat has a bow line - maybe that makes things a little cleared.
LOL, yeah, I see :) They're the lines you're normally leaving on your pontoon, right?
Though actually It was also the length (just enough) which made me curious.
Together with the number of twists around the cleats... That's according to the "better safe than sorry" rule, I guess! :D
 
LOL, yeah, I see :) They're the lines you're normally leaving on your pontoon, right?
Though actually It was also the length (just enough) which made me curious.
Together with the number of twists around the cleats... That's according to the "better safe than sorry" rule, I guess! :D

:o:o:o - oh yes - the lines are a bit long but they would have to lay on the teak and stain/mark it if we didnt twist the extra lenght of the ends round the cleats. I agree it doesn't look very good seamanship - but its practical and tidy.
 
the lines are a bit long but they would have to lay on the teak and stain/mark it
Geez, with such immaculate lines? It would take decades, I guess...! :)
In principle, I see what you mean of course, but fwiw my boat is now into her 15th season and the much worse ground lines have yet to mark the deck.
I do rinse them a bit after mooring though, whilst you surely don't need that with such tidy lines.
 
I see from the vid that you wont have the probs we have with the anchor smacking the bow plate as it twists, due to your extended bow roller. My Twist is into it's 3rd season now and I dont see any signs of damage or weakness so it seems to be a robust piece of kit
 
Glad the swivel is giving satisfaction. I have one and mostly it works as per your vid. But the one time I took my eye off it it swivelled the anchor only through 90 degrees instead of 180 -probably one fluke was weighted down with mud. This resulted in a jam which required resolution via the tried and trusted system of strong bloke plus large crowbar.
 
Glad the swivel is giving satisfaction. I have one and mostly it works as per your vid. But the one time I took my eye off it it swivelled the anchor only through 90 degrees instead of 180 -probably one fluke was weighted down with mud. This resulted in a jam which required resolution via the tried and trusted system of strong bloke plus large crowbar.

My idiot teenage son managed to get the chain to jump off the bow roller during the Twist process and wedge itself in the channel between the bow roller and the hull, despite me telling him to concentrate on avoiding just this thing happening. My tried and trusted 'resolution' process was to offer some words of advice in the form of what I believe is called industrial language. That fixed it and surprisingly, it hasn't happened since:)
 
A less elegant solution is to stick a screwdriver type of instrument into the chain just above the roller and use that to rotate the chain. It makes it a bit easier and safer, but doesn't eliminate the problem.
 
Hlb - I too have not had any issue with 'cock O bill ' anchors as the Wt on my delta always - up 'till now rights itself before it reaches the bow roller.


Nice rope stopper Hurricane :-)



I wonder if an anchor that can park it's self upside down in the rollers, can also park it's self upside down on the bottom and just drag??
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I wonder if an anchor that can park it's self upside down in the rollers, can also park it's self upside down on the bottom and just drag??
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Thats actually a good point. I like to snorkel after we've dropped the hook and inspect the anchor. More often than not it's on it's side barely dug in, even if I think I've set it by going astern. My belief is that the weight of the chain sitting on the sea bed and its catenary effect does as much to hold the boat as the holding power of the anchor itself
 
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