Anchor Capstan Seized

noswellplease

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After completing the Spring list of maintenance jobs I discovered that the manual capstan is seized. The boat is nearly 40 y.o. and the capstan looks to be the original one. There is no name that I could make out which of course does not help much. There are two drums one for the anchor chain and another for mooring lines or whatever I guess. I tried spraying WD40 in wherever I could and hoped this would free things up a bit but without success. I'm wondering what my next plan might be? should it be possible to prize off the anchor chain drum to have a look inside and hopefully spot the problem. The boat is a Trintella 11 so perhaps some forumite might be familiar with the capstan on these boats. If all else fails then I shall use the old method, pull by hand. Any advice much appreciated.
 
a manual capstan can seize in the internal gearbox as well as in the axle bearings. Have you located a filler plug and taken it off ? If so, what's the state of the oil inside ?
 
When mine did that,I put it in a bucket of diesel and left it to soak for a cuple of weeks, came apart easy after that.
It was an old simpson-lawrence, so getting parts was impossible, but by carefull dismantling every thing went back together ok.
 
Could not see any filler plug or grease nipple. Will be on the boat next Friday so will look over it again. Perhaps if I manage to remove the unit completely I will soak it in a bucket of diesel and see it that helps.
 
Mine is solid too, not high on my list of priorities at the moment but I found this,
[image]http://www.slspares.co.uk/Hyspeed%20510.pdf[/image]
Bugger, that didn't work, copy and paste into a new window.

It looks like part 33 is what I need, it's all rusted solid on mine.

Actually, mine will work OK in recovery mode, the clutch won't dissengage to let chain out.
 
(That's cos pdf files aren't images /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif )

To the OP, if it's a SL Hyspeed, then corrosion etc on the shaft can seize it. Take the nut off the end, unwind the clutch wheel and get the cone clutch off (that will probably require a lot of tapping and levering, but be careful if it is made of tuffnol)

Judicious scraping and abrading of the shaft did the business when I had to do it last year, after buying a secondhand one in St Helier and sorting and fitting it while crossing the Channel /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
aug08_09_windlass.jpg
 
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