Aluminium fabrication

[sails_02]

I'm looking to get a CAD design fabricated.

Will involve cutting (plasma?), bending and some minor machining, anodised finish.
I don't think CNC would be cost effective. Does anyone have any experience or suggestions for getting this done?
Looking at plate aluminium, about 600mm x 300mm x 5mm, probably a one off,.

Presuming I could get a machine shop with some patience, or a prototyping shop.

Thanks

 

[rotrax]

Sounds like a band saw and a usefull metalworker unless it is a precision part.

One offs are notriously pricey

 

[Laminar Flow]

For what its worth, aluminium can be worked with regular wood working tools i.e. a jigsaw, easily shaped on a sander and drilled without too much fuss. For the anodizing you will need a specialized and most likely separate outfit.

 

[penfold]

laser or waterjet is better than plasma for aluminium, depending on your desires in terms of tolerance and finish either could be left untrimmed. We need to know more about it to judge further, a sketch would help.

 

[Bouba]

I can’t recommend these guys highly enough
LaserMaster UK Homepage - Laser Cutting and Metal Folding LaserMaser Ltd
They did some amazing stainless work for me so they probably could do your aluminum work with a butter knife.
I’m sure my machined finished product cost less than I could get the steel for

 

[sails_02]

I can’t recommend these guys highly enough
LaserMaster UK Homepage - Laser Cutting and Metal Folding LaserMaser Ltd
They did some amazing stainless work for me so they probably could do your aluminum work with a butter knife.
I’m sure my machined finished product cost less than I could get the steel for

This looks spot on. Thanks all.

Sketch attached, it is actually 3D, which might not be obvious, but the bottom base if flat, the leg is vertical and the top bit is flat again.
It won't be load bearing but needs to be firm, so perhaps stringer or buttress of sorts along the back of the vertical element, or a fold of sorts.
(no measurements of yet, still to be determined before being sent to a friend with CAD while I mock something up)

I wasn't aware that a jigsaw would go through aluminium, so that is probably my first call, followed by the LaserMaster chaps in cornwall.

 

[Laminar Flow]

This looks spot on. Thanks all.

Sketch attached, it is actually 3D, which might not be obvious, but the bottom base if flat, the leg is vertical and the top bit is flat again.
It won't be load bearing but needs to be firm, so perhaps stringer or buttress of sorts along the back of the vertical element, or a fold of sorts.
(no measurements of yet, still to be determined before being sent to a friend with CAD while I mock something up)

I wasn't aware that a jigsaw would go through aluminium, so that is probably my first call, followed by the LaserMaster chaps in cornwall.

With the right blade a jigsaw will cut through steel plate and I have often done so.
If your project is orientated as you show in your picture, the stringer would have to be welded to the front and bottom of the spine to be effectual.
Also, if you are bending 90 degr angles at the top and the bottom it is worthwhile to remember that aluminium can be only stretched 10% - 15% to the point of failure (steel is 22%). This means, and since you are choosing plate with a fairly substantial cross section (5mm), that your bending radius can accommodate this.

 

[thinwater]

This strikes me like a case of trying to use tech to solve a simple problem. In fact, it is an example of trying to make something simple complicated.

Any metal worker could knock this out long before you explained it to you CAD friend. Hole saw, band saw, drills, and a little clean up. Just make a good tracing. The result will be as accurate as your base measurements, which I gather are approximate. CAD won't change that.

 

[Neeves]

I agree with Thinwater.

I work 6 and 7 series aluminium, max plate thickness 25mm, and 800 MPa steel, 12mm plate thickness, with an angle grinder and decent bench drill. I use the very thin blades that are designated for cutting stainless steel and come in packs of 10. I have decent high tensile drill bits, like hole saws for wood, my max diameter is 27mm. I have a set of rasps for finer work and curves and I use a hefty polisher to which I attach coarse and increasingly finer, abrasive discs to finish off.

One advantage of making the first prototypes yourself is - you find out what might be wrong with your design before you spend much money.

If you go to someone with a plasma or water cutter - they are geared up for multiple units all the same - not one offs.

When I had made my prototypes and identified all the issues I had the pieces drawn up professionally (daughter is a graphic designer in the UK) I had some prototypes made by 2 different companies in China (some in Duplex some in 7 series aluminium, but its much, much easier if you speak Chinese. it was very cheap, excellent work (still with a few translational problems) and quick.

If I need any welding I go to a welder with some beer. But I make up the pieces in a wooden frame so that all that is needed is the welding. Galvanising, I have one who will do it for free, and anodising I now do myself though if it was a big piece I'd need to experiment.

On aluminium - it merits note - Fortress are built from extruded components (they own the dies), no bending, no welding. They do do some machining. Their anodising is completed by a subcontractor.

Jonathan

 

[sails_02]

Thanks, first draft was always going to be jigsawed marine ply, screws etc to get the dimensions, this I'm very familiar with, second version would be what you describe, and then third if we get there would be getting it drawn up with the learnings from one and two.

 

[Bouba]

Make the first out of thin aluminum. Easy to cut and bend and will give you a feel if you want to make it yourself