A Williams Jet Rib Guide

[BenMorgan]

Sat the jet pump in a bucket of Calcium, Lime & Rust remover and gave it a light scrub this morning. Managed to get the drive shaft out of the impeller, which was rusted in solid. Next will be to remove the stator cone, to try and undo the impeller shaft. If I am successful, I will then be able to tap the shaft and impeller out of the housing.

 

[BenMorgan]

Some photos of the unit after soaking in CLR. Am now disassembling the unit to components, however, because the stainless wear ring has deformed due to dissimilar metal corrosion, the impeller is seized and going nowhere. Need to do some more thinking. My understanding is that the impeller unscrews off the shaft that is retained within the Jet Pump. My concern is that the impeller blades will be damaged unscrewing it as they will be forced over the top of the bulge in the stainless wear ring. But, I see virtually no alternative.

 

[jrudge]

Calcium remover is hcl. Be warned that also dissolves aluminium. I would not use it.

Good luck with the rest of it

 

[BenMorgan]

A very mild mix, so not aggressive on the base aluminum.

 

[BenMorgan]

Hopefully a fellow Williams TurboJet owner can help me out.... what does the 2 pole plug to the right of the drivers seat do? Number #4 in the diagram below.

 

[jrudge]

it is external power. I have never used it and I doubt anyone else has either. It was I believe deleted on more recent models.

 

[Peterlewis321]

Hopefully a fellow Williams TurboJet owner can help me out.... what does the 2 pole plug to the right of the drivers seat do? Number #4 in the diagram below.

Battery charger socket.

 

[geo_dav]

Some photos of the unit after soaking in CLR. Am now disassembling the unit to components, however, because the stainless wear ring has deformed due to dissimilar metal corrosion, the impeller is seized and going nowhere. Need to do some more thinking. My understanding is that the impeller unscrews off the shaft that is retained within the Jet Pump. My concern is that the impeller blades will be damaged unscrewing it as they will be forced over the top of the bulge in the stainless wear ring. But, I see virtually no alternative.

Wow, yeah, I agree ... however, there is this alternative: https://weberpower.com/weber-jet-propulsion-2004-2013-propulsion.html

 

[geo_dav]

Hi All ... a recent 2007 285 owner (kind of inherited) ... which requires a lot of resto work - was taken off a boat and put under a cover in a garage for some years .... with a bilge still full of water!!
Tubes have mildew ingrained now, but seem OK and I managed to crank/start the engine started the other day, so all positive there ... but all gauges are shot, most switches also along with accessories (blower/bilge) which I am in the process of replacing. Even sections of the wiring are gone ... corroded from the condensation that's got into everything!!

Couple of things I'm after help with:
1) REPAIR Manual ... not service or parts, which I have. I know I can buy from Weber, but freight to Australia is 3x the cost of the USD$100 manual, which is loco!! Can anyone assist with this?
2) Cranking Stopped ... even with a good battery and hard short on solenoid contacts, nothing. No Click/No Spark/No Nothing. Did work several times while I was chk'ing for compression/spark/fuel/etc and then running for bit to do oil chk also ... but now it will not crank and I am stumped as to why. Any suggestions? I'm really NOT wanting to remove/test/replace the starter, because that means removing the entire power plant, so am keen to explore all suggestions 1st. Hope there are some?

 

[billskip]

but now it will not crank and I am stumped as to why. Any suggestions?

Starter solenoid? Is it a pre engagement bendix? If so you should hear a click as the solenoid moves the fork . Cable connections? Possibly corroded connections to the solenoid.

 

[geo_dav]

Thanks BillSkip .... it's pre-engagement one, and I have concluded the fault must be inside the starter - turns out that with a lot time, frustration, skun knuckles and tools/bolts now in the bilge and never likely to be seen again the starter can be removed with the engine in situ. Then dismantled and then the problem found.... savage corrosion on the brush plate making them all stuck in place and no longer touching the commutator .... urgh. A lot of clean up to do here!!

 

[billskip]

urgh. A lot of clean up to do here!!

It's all necessary, has to be reliable, unless of course you can walk on water....

 

[ARance]

Hey guys. My 2015 285 came out of the boat garage after a long winter, started on the button, took her for a run in the harbour and was 100% running perfectly. Yesterday went to take it out again, starts first crank, chugged down the river and opened her up, once the revs got to 5000 she started hunting for fuel and the revs dropped back. Felt like fuel starvation. Ended up covering 12 miles, upto 4500 runs perfectly, any more and the revs drop back. It’s last years fuel but with an additive. She’s was sitting at 1/2 a tank so decided to top it up and mix some new fuel in. The Red fault light on the dash sits solid and if pushed to 4500 rpm where the hunting starts then the light flashes. My first thought is fuel filter ? And maybe empty the fuel tank and refill with fresh ? Any suggestions much appreciated: ) also any tips on changing the filter? Guess it’s Will be pressurised how best to release the pressure?? Thx in advance

 

[jrudge]

You say " drops back " so it runs normally to 7500 and then slows to 5000 rpm ?

If that is not correct please clarify.

5000 is the approx limit it will run if the turbo is stuck. If it is stuck it will be with salt and salt means a corroded manifold.

The fuel filter is not pressurise but they mostly have clips that can only be opened with a special tool. Cut them off and replace with jubilee clips.

Old fuel I am sure is possible but mostly falls into the old wives tale category in my view. Fuel starvation is possible but you can do a basic check by pulling the return line. The return flow is huge so check it.

Check engine light is more likely than not sensors. The engine is packed with them. You can either put on a Williams test machine to get the code or change a few and see what happens but first check electrical connections. The temp sensor seems to give more trouble than most. Most sensors are cheap if an equivalent is purchased - quite likely cheaper than getting Williams out.

Is this the 850 engine ?

 

[jfm]

Sounds like the electronics are limiting the engine rpm due to a fault. Limp mode. So you need to find what is causing the fault light to be on. Probably a sensor.

 

[jrudge]

True limp mode is about 2000 and runs on one cylinder only on the textron 750/850 . I have looked before for a definition of its limp modes and what triggers them without success. Overheating causes the 2000 rpm / 1 cylinder one I know for a fact but i don't know if there are other modes.

 

[jrudge]

odd that people ask for advise and don't reply !

 

[itspaul]

Yes frustrating isn't it when you take time to help …. As an aside a friend of mine took delivery of a brand new 285 last week after the first time of using engine management light on and fault code of a misfire … nice to see the reliability is still up there with JLR

 

[jrudge]

To be ( slightly ) fair they are stressed beyond imagination but having issues with a new one is no good. Ground ls for rejection actually! I have just done this with a brand new 911.