A short cruise to Corsica (pics)

jimmy_the_builder

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After a pleasant day in Villefranche on Saturday, we were up early on Sunday morning, and largely on a whim decided to head for Corsica. We knew that forumite EME was in Calvi, so we thought it might be funny to pop over to say hello.

So, four hours later, we arrived at Calvi (it's about 95nm south east of Antibes). This is the citadel that historically protected the port:

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I think it was Wiggo that said that the absence of planning means that failure comes as no surprise (or words to that effect). Once we'd arrived we discovered that the port was full, and the capitanerie were reluctant to do anything helpful, like allowing us to put our name down for a berth in case one became available. The wind had picked up in the last part of our crossing, and by now it was blowing a hard F5 straight into the bay where the port is. Given that there was no space at the inn, we took a buoy outside the port entrance. It was pretty bouncy, and in the two hours it took us to have lunch, one of the bow lines holding us to the buoy had chafed through the gel coat near the fairlead, so it was pretty clear that we couldn't stay there.

This turned out to be a blessing in disguise - we just went round the corner, and found a titchy cove up in the nw corner of Corsica, and tucked in there. Although the wind was still gusting around a bit, we were fairly well sheltered and much more comfortable than Calvi. It was so lovely that we decided to stay the night. There were only four other boats in the anchorage, loads of space, blissful.

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With no particular plan in mind, we decided to continue south. The scenery in this part of Corsica is just awesome, it's just so other-worldly in places.

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As you get into the Scandola national park there is a well-known but squeaky-tight shortcut, this is the Gargalu passage. The almanac suggested that there was 3m depth - but it didn't mention that there's only about 6m width between the submerged rocks, which you find out once you are right in it. The local ribs blast through at planing speed, I'm afraid I wasn't quite so brave...

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Once we were through, the sea flattened right off.

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We were heading for Girolata. As we turned into the bay, we saw this poking out of the cliffs:

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A bit closer. They've tucked this right into the shore, as we went past they were organising shorelines to the rocks:

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This is Girolata. The (unprotected) port is tucked round behind the headland.

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This was a nice setup - fore-and-aft buoys in about 2m of crystal-clear water. Very helpful guys in ribs zipping around organising everything, and a modest €37 for the night.

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After a fab dinner at a restaurant up on the headland overlooking the anchorage, we had another early start to head back home to Antibes:

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(to be continued in part 2 due to the annoying IPC policy of only allowing 20 images in a post)
 
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jimmy_the_builder

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Sunrise as we left Corsica:

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Then, about 15nm off Corsica on track to Antibes, in about 2600m of water, we saw these:

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The photos don't really do this justice. This is a pair of fin whales, and they were just massive, bigger than the boat. We've got about 200 photos, most of which are rubbish cos we were just going 'OMG' the whole time in that 'I want to get closer but they are REALLY big' kind of way.

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We hung around for 20mins or so just watching in awe. I've only ever seen a whale once before, a Minke whale in Lyme bay a few years ago. These were huge by comparison, swimming around on the surface, accompanied by some dolphins.

Anyway, after that, the rest of the run back home was straightforward enough, we got back into Port Vauban at about 1030 yesterday morning, and saw this on the IYCA - this is Venus, the late Steve Jobs's yacht.

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And that was it! A very pleasant way to spend a couple of days.

Cheers
Jimmy
 
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henryf

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I never thought I would say this to you Jimmy but I'm jealous :)

That looks absolutely top banana.

A big old lump tucked into a tight spot. Someone either knows their onions or we've just seen the start of this summers YouTube viral "Girolata fail" sensation :)


H.
 
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MapisM

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A very pleasant way to spend a couple of days.
Geez, you can say that again!
Those whales must have been quite an experience, in the Med I only saw one once after all these years...
...and it was at quite some distance and in a rough sea, so barely visible.
Your spotting is WAY better, I can imagine how nice the real view must have been. :)

Out of curiosity, what sort of water temperature did you have during your trip?
Here in southern sardinia, the water is still around 20/21 degrees, which might be not bad by UK standards but is actually bloody cold here, at this time of the year.
Global warming my @rse... Aaarumph!
 

jimmy_the_builder

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Geez, you can say that again!
Those whales must have been quite an experience, in the Med I only saw one once after all these years...
...and it was at quite some distance and in a rough sea, so barely visible.
Your spotting is WAY better, I can imagine how nice the real view must have been. :)

Out of curiosity, what sort of water temperature did you have during your trip?
Here in southern sardinia, the water is still around 20/21 degrees, which might be not bad by UK standards but is actually bloody cold here, at this time of the year.
Global warming my @rse... Aaarumph!

I don't know the answer to that, sorry, I don't have water temp on the boat. However, Riviera Radio said this morning that the sea temp here (Cote d'Azur) is 24c.

Cheers
Jimmy
 

taz

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Not jealous.........really.


Looks superb and those whales.............how cool is that.
 

MapisM

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Riviera Radio said this morning that the sea temp here (Cote d'Azur) is 24c.
Grrr... How come I'm some 250+ NM further south, and get colder water?
Oh, well. I guess it has something to see with currents, and extremely deep seabed all around the coast.
Can't complain anyway, swimming in 20° water is still better than a day at work... :D
 

Nick_H

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Nice write up Jimmy, and great photos as always from your resident photographer.

I'm almost certain we saw some whales on the same crossing a couple of years ago, but being a bit dim I mistook the spray from their spouts as fish jumping, and didn't investigate. My charter client has some amazing video from last year of a whale just a few feet away from the boat, slamming its tail on the water to stun fish then scooping them up in its mouth. That was half a mile off St Tropez.
 

rafiki_

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Jimmy,

Many thanks. Fantastic pics and write-up. Stunning scenary, and love the whales. We have done the watching bit a couple of times in the States, and they are glorious creatures, so serene. I dream of witnessing something like this off my own boat.

Makes the view from my office, the back side of Ikea, a little less interesting. :)

MM, you can have some heat from my office, if you can ship it there. 34C at the moment. Now, no comments about hot air please, I've heard them all. :D
 

MapisM

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MM, you can have some heat from my office, if you can ship it there.
LOL, thanks, but actually air temperature is rather hot also around here.
In fact, the cooling constant breeze is more than welcome in this respect.
It's just the sea water temp that is unusually low, for some reason...
 

jfm

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Fantastic post and pictures Jimmy. Great to see Vega spreading wings as Hurricane said and getting big mileage under her belt. I haven't been to Corsica since last summer but it is nice to be reminded of the stunning scenery. And fantastic to see the whales. I know i post on here (as do you and others) "put your boat on a lorry and take it to the Med for a few months" and I hope these pictures prove why

The beautifully parked superyacht was Quinta Essentia, a new Heesen launch. It's a super fast thing, all alloy, does 20++ knots and has a fabulous interior. Applause and respect to the captain and owner for finding such an adventurous spot for lunch!

Feel free to post some more pics Jimmy :D
 
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kashurst

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quality pics and a great trip. Corsica's on our list of destinations after some of JFMs pics, yours have sealed it. I need to take a big brave pill to go from Menorca to Sardinia first though or go the long way around...
 

jfm

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quality pics and a great trip. Corsica's on our list of destinations after some of JFMs pics, yours have sealed it. I need to take a big brave pill to go from Menorca to Sardinia first though or go the long way around...
Go for it K. Mahon staight to top left corner of Sardinia is a goer in your machine - just study the weather for a week beforehand, but prevailing wind is behind you. Then refuel, and you have all of Lavezzi, Madellena /islands, Bonifacio, Rondinara in easy range. That would be a very grand cruise. If you wish, you could returrn the long way - N Corsica to Antibes, then Barcelona or Palamos, then Balearics
 
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