I installed a 4kw Planar on our 9.5m boat and because of some routing problems for the vents it it overheated and I changed it for the 2kw version. A massive improvement as it was noticeably quieter. When the 4 kWh was working (only when the conditions were very cold) it was on a minimal setting...
As others have said, you would need to put some work in to ensure an LFP back-up starter battery remained in good health. For a long life it would need to be only charged to mid-range but you also need to ensure that self-discharge - especially if stored in hot conditions - doesn't take it to...
The best thing to do with a lead acid backup battery is to keep it fully charged. Storage at full charge is however the WORST thing you can do with an LFP.
My 1986 Blake's are badly pitted but Blake's own seacock grease is so thick and glutinous, it compensates for the pits. I've never had a problem and I don't expect to change them.
State of charge depends on an accurate measure of capacity of the pack, an accurate enough measure of power in and out (Coulomb counting), and a monitor that has been synchronised regularly enough to 100% when the battery is fully charged (based on tail current at target voltage). LFP has a...
For fractional C rates which are typical of marine usage the use of voltage as any kind of guide is only meaningful at the upper and lower knees on the charging curve.
You might come to know about it if the elderly FLA battery developed an internal short and turned into a 10 volt battery. A nice full LFP in parallel will pump a lot of juice into the dying FLA to attempt to equalise and all that heat has to go somewhere. Stand well back!
I don't recall the exact amperage interrupt figures but for small systems the MRBF fuses are significantly better than ANL or MEGA fuses but as you say, Class T is best. I wouldn't go lower than MRBF.