jamescf
New member
Hi Has anyone any experience of reverse flushing the raw water (salt water) cooling system on their VP KAD42 or any other engines. Thanks
Water alone is unlikely to have any affect on the salt and other mineral deposits. Did mine (TAMD42) by pumping Rydlyme through it for 3 hours.Hi Has anyone any experience of reverse flushing the raw water (salt water) cooling system on their VP KAD42 or any other engines. Thanks
It does have some affect as I did that earlier this year as I couldn't get hold of the rydlyme stuff, the engine temp dropped by about 2c, not much but did help. Obviously best to do it with Rydlyme for best results.Water alone is unlikely to have any affect on the salt and other mineral deposits. Did mine (TAMD42) by pumping Rydlyme through it for 3 hours.
www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
Presumably you took the seawater pipe off the exhaust elbow to return the Rydlyme to a container? Also presumably the exhaust doesn’t overheat?Water alone is unlikely to have any affect on the salt and other mineral deposits. Did mine (TAMD42) by pumping Rydlyme through it for 3 hours.
www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
Here is a video of my setup 20200827_102120_1.mp4Presumably you took the seawater pipe off the exhaust elbow to return the Rydlyme to a container? Also presumably the exhaust doesn’t overheat?
Just found the method online, to use a separate pump to circulate the mix.
Nice set up, thanks First thing I do when the boat comes out is flush for an hour with fresh water so no salt left in the system.Here is a video of my setup 20200827_102120_1.mp4
Remove the impeller and put the cover back on.
I used a 20mm port bilge pump same as this Whale Orca Bilge Pump | Force 4 Chandlery
Initially pump through fresh water with the output going overboard so you start with no salt water.
Then add your 50:50 mix of Rydlyme to the reservoir and pump for 3 hours.
www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
Nice set up, thanks First thing I do when the boat comes out is flush for an hour with fresh water so no salt left in the system.
Doing mine today, I use a ctek battery charger (because I have one) set to 12v power supply mode, or simply use crocodile clips to the boat battery with a fuse inline and at the same time switch on your battery charger, my pump is rated 2.5amps (not much of a drain for 3hrs).This is useful stuff - I keep meaning to flush and clean my TAMD41P but wasn't entirely sure how to tackle it. Much clearer with the videos!
What size battery do you use for the little pumps to run for 3hrs or have you wired up a cig lighter plug/shorepower adapter?
Yep, it takes that long for the engine to get to temperature at 1000rpm then I drain the engine oil.An hour ?
Isn't that a bit risky leaving some fresh water in the heat exchangers over winter? Or do you rely on an enginebay heater?First thing I do when the boat comes out is flush for an hour with fresh water so no salt left in the system.
Change the oil after going for a good run. I did a 30 mile run (bringing the boat to winter storage) and used an electric pump (into a 20l drum) - made it a doddle!!Yep, it takes that long for the engine to get to temperature at 1000rpm then I drain the engine oil.
I presume once they flush with fresh water, everything is then drained?Isn't that a bit risky leaving some fresh water in the heat exchangers over winter? Or do you rely on an enginebay heater?
www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
Engine bay heater, dehumidifier and this year will be a fan heater in the saloon with the engine hatch open. Last year there was barely a frost here, I’m at the boat every day so no risk of freezing anything.Isn't that a bit risky leaving some fresh water in the heat exchangers over winter? Or do you rely on an enginebay heater?
www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
Well, you know for next year!
The boats going to sit there for 6 months, why interrupt good boating time with oil based drudgery ?Well, you know for next year!