Clean and re paint engine in situ
- Thread starter fishfoxey
- Start date
burgundyben
Well-known member
I'd hook it out. You'll get a much better result and be able to clean and paint bilge, check engine mounts etc.
Paint with 2 from rattle cans , car paint shop can mix up any colour you like.
Paint with 2 from rattle cans , car paint shop can mix up any colour you like.
Plum
Well-known member
Remove the heat exchangers, manifolds, hoses, the alternator and the pullies. Tape over all the holes. Degrease with gunk (in a spray can from car spares shop) then wash off with water from a pump-up garden sprayer (you can squiry into all the crevices with this without using excesdive quantity of water. Use a range of different wire brushes in a cordless drill to abrade all surfaces. Degrease and wash again. Paint using Hammerite Rust Beater primer by brush then two coats of Hammerite smooth paint by brush. This worked for me and still looks good after 16 years. Obviously, you will get to more areas if you take the engine out. Do the heat exchangers, etc, at home but use the Hammerite special metals primer on anything aluminium.
Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
oldgit
Well-known member
Looks like one of pair. ?
Degrease and jetwash in situ. You can get to the nooks and crannies with a stiff brush and elbow grease. Plenty of access round the sides.
You can buy brushing enamel at a fraction of the price of aerosol cans.
If engine is in good working condition and does not require any work , why on earth you would go to the time and expence of pulling it to bits to merely make it look pretty ?
The cost of gasket sets and other bits and pieces are going to be expensive, not forgetting stripping threads on those alloy coolers and other little challenges when stripping down.
Looks like a working engine in working boat , leave well alone.
Degrease and jetwash in situ. You can get to the nooks and crannies with a stiff brush and elbow grease. Plenty of access round the sides.
You can buy brushing enamel at a fraction of the price of aerosol cans.
If engine is in good working condition and does not require any work , why on earth you would go to the time and expence of pulling it to bits to merely make it look pretty ?
The cost of gasket sets and other bits and pieces are going to be expensive, not forgetting stripping threads on those alloy coolers and other little challenges when stripping down.
Looks like a working engine in working boat , leave well alone.
superheat6k
Well-known member
When I rebuilt my Stbd engine recently a key part was the cleaning down and fulll re-paint of al lthe parts whilst loose, and all the difficult to get to areas.
I thought about painting the port in situ, but decided a shabby chic look is likely better received than a top coat that can appear to be covering things over.
When I was buying my Corvette I looked at one which had had one engine painted following a reported rebuild ~5 years previously. The paint job had overblown the visible side of the fuel filter cartridge, immediately telling me this 'well maintained' craft had not had its fuel filter changed for five years. I later learnt that the engine failed on sea trial for the would be buyers and this cost the seller 50% of his sale rebuilding it again.
I thought about painting the port in situ, but decided a shabby chic look is likely better received than a top coat that can appear to be covering things over.
When I was buying my Corvette I looked at one which had had one engine painted following a reported rebuild ~5 years previously. The paint job had overblown the visible side of the fuel filter cartridge, immediately telling me this 'well maintained' craft had not had its fuel filter changed for five years. I later learnt that the engine failed on sea trial for the would be buyers and this cost the seller 50% of his sale rebuilding it again.
Rappey
Well-known member
I painted my engine 28 years ago when it was last out.. now its got flakey paint but i dont care as it does not affect the engine and there are other things that would be of greater benefit for my time..
As for paint, after painting a 1946 ship 3 times over the past 25 years ive had plenty of testing with various metal coatings (single pack)
I did 6 rusty patches with 6 different treatments.. Por15, hammerite, fertan, rustoleum and i cant remember the other two.. Was amazed at what totally outdid the other 5.. Will sell you my research for £10.. lol
Believe it or not the hammerite completely outperformed everything else ! But that was years ago. Now many say hammerite no longer contains the magical ingredients it used to have..
I painted my sl seatiger windlass with hammerite special metals primer, then white hammerite some 25 years ago.. today around 40% of the hammerite has flaked off but the red special metals primer is at least 90% still there..
I have since discovered a magical paint that is even better than the original hammerite , zinssers all coat exterior oil based (the water based is not as good)
Amazing stuff, touch dry within 15 mins, overcoatable after one hr, no primers needed as this stuff is primer, undercoat and topcat.. It can be used on most things, aluminuim, galvanised, bitumen, wood, steel, glass, pvc etc...
It does have a very powerfull acetone type smell which is a little powerfull used in a confined space .
As for paint, after painting a 1946 ship 3 times over the past 25 years ive had plenty of testing with various metal coatings (single pack)
I did 6 rusty patches with 6 different treatments.. Por15, hammerite, fertan, rustoleum and i cant remember the other two.. Was amazed at what totally outdid the other 5.. Will sell you my research for £10.. lol
Believe it or not the hammerite completely outperformed everything else ! But that was years ago. Now many say hammerite no longer contains the magical ingredients it used to have..
I painted my sl seatiger windlass with hammerite special metals primer, then white hammerite some 25 years ago.. today around 40% of the hammerite has flaked off but the red special metals primer is at least 90% still there..
I have since discovered a magical paint that is even better than the original hammerite , zinssers all coat exterior oil based (the water based is not as good)
Amazing stuff, touch dry within 15 mins, overcoatable after one hr, no primers needed as this stuff is primer, undercoat and topcat.. It can be used on most things, aluminuim, galvanised, bitumen, wood, steel, glass, pvc etc...
It does have a very powerfull acetone type smell which is a little powerfull used in a confined space .
Jim@sea
Well-known member
I had a BMC Thorneycroft Diesel engine and the paintwork looked the 35 years old I degreased it with Gunk.
Then I cleaned it with Acetone. Then painted it Smooth Hammerite White with a brush.
Acetone is a very good thinner for Hammerite and cheaper than Hammerite Thinners.
Then I cleaned it with Acetone. Then painted it Smooth Hammerite White with a brush.
Acetone is a very good thinner for Hammerite and cheaper than Hammerite Thinners.
Caraway
Well-known member
I notice many of the people suggesting Hammerite used it some while ago. It is, in it's newer incarnations, pretty rubbish.
Rustoleum paints are very good. Hand brushing is easier and (with Rustoleum) gives a superb finish.
I wouldn't try to do it in-situ unless removal is a real problem. As has been said, it gives an opportunity to do all the little bits around the engine that need attention.
The point made about corroded bolts and such actually work in favour of the idea of stripping ancilliaries from the motor. Would you rather have to drill out a snapped bolt or install a helicoil with the engine on a bench with plenty of time, or do it in the engine bay with time pressures in play?
Preventative maintenance will always give you an easier life.
Rustoleum paints are very good. Hand brushing is easier and (with Rustoleum) gives a superb finish.
I wouldn't try to do it in-situ unless removal is a real problem. As has been said, it gives an opportunity to do all the little bits around the engine that need attention.
The point made about corroded bolts and such actually work in favour of the idea of stripping ancilliaries from the motor. Would you rather have to drill out a snapped bolt or install a helicoil with the engine on a bench with plenty of time, or do it in the engine bay with time pressures in play?
Preventative maintenance will always give you an easier life.
Eyore
Well-known member
Did one of mine in situ last autumn, de greased ,power wire brushed it and two coats of tractor enamel made a great job. Have tried car aerosols in the past but its not possible to get adequate build up,
Megs20Burt!
Active member
My engine(s) clean is scheduled for March, C-19 willing!!!
I have reasonable access to all sides and will sacrifice a bag or two of microfibre cloths to degrease and clean the engines. Then touch up where needed using VP green.
The entire engine bay is getting a good clean as the previous owners obviously were not concerned about having a clean engine room, It will be a good exercise for me to have a good and close-up look at everything whilst doing it...??
I have reasonable access to all sides and will sacrifice a bag or two of microfibre cloths to degrease and clean the engines. Then touch up where needed using VP green.
The entire engine bay is getting a good clean as the previous owners obviously were not concerned about having a clean engine room, It will be a good exercise for me to have a good and close-up look at everything whilst doing it...??
bowler
Active member
What is the cleaning product of choice?
rich
Well-known member
Be very careful, some degrease,s are petroleum based!and you don’t want that in your bilge.
burgundyben
Well-known member
Good point. Caution with any flammable solvent that does have a way to drain.
Anthony
Active member
You also don't want them on some rubber parts like oil seals otherwise you may find your new paint gets very dirty when you run the engine and oil leaks out of places it didn't before.
