KevO
Well-Known Member
So, having had winter maintainance plans foreshortened for the last 2 years I am finally hoping to get several jobs done with the engine twixt now and Apr on my Hustler 30.
Situation:
The diesel tank is located in the port aft cockpit locker. It is only 20L and to top it up at sea is a bit of a drama as you have to lift and secure the locker lid then juggle a fuel can around the cockpit obstructions such as the tiller and the main sheet etc. It's not ideal, especially in anything other than flat calm, and even more of a PITA when solo. I want more capacity to avoid having to do this at sea.
The fuel line runs down by gravity from the bottom of the tank through a CAV filter which is situated low down behind the engine. The fuel line then runs to the front of the engine, up through the integral fine filter (drawn by the fuel lift pump?) and into the engine.
Anyone with a Hustler 30 will appreciate that the only way to get to the back of the engine is to lift the floor which in my case means lifting out the large teak gratings then removing 8 x bolts that hold the floor hatch in place and watertight. Even then one has to climb into the stbd forelocker and then go head first down the floor hatch to reach the darned filter. It is a pig of a job and is again really not something I want to be doing at sea, especially in a drama situation. I would much rather be able to access the fuel filter from the front of the engine by lifting out the steps. Sooo much easier.
I also want to fit a diesel heater system this winter and replace the 2 rear engine mounts which are pretty rusty following a floor leak before I rebuilt the hatch a couple of years ago.
So, I have a general plan but there are a couple of associated questions that need answering before I can proceed.
I want more fuel capacity so rather than rip out that perfectly serviceable 20L stainless tank I could just earmark that as the heater tank alone and remove all fuel connections to the engine including the CAV.
Then install another larger plastic tek tank job in the bottom of the port fwd locker. I could then take a fuel line through the bulkhead into the engine bay, refit the CAV in a more convenient spot and run the fuel lines to/from the engine as before. A question arises here. The supply from the old tank has a 'head' of about 24" down to the filter. Given that the new tank would be at pretty much the same level as the CAV would the fuel lift pump on the engine alone have sufficient draw to lift fuel from the tank (through a top feed fitting) through the CAV and then up to the engine? Or will an additional fuel pump likely be required?
Further, I'm gonna lift the engine into the saloon so that I can get all the jobs done with more space, draw the prop shaft and replace the cutless bearing and the PSS seal at the same time. Paint out the bay then remount the engine etc. Can I just replace the 2 rear mounts with alternatives rather than the Yanmar branded gold plated and diamond encrusted ones (they must be so to justify the price!). I believe R&D (?) make suitable replacements that although different should still fit without too much fettling? Can I keep the Yanmars on the front and just replace the rear ones do you think?
Open to suggestions folks....
Kev
Situation:
The diesel tank is located in the port aft cockpit locker. It is only 20L and to top it up at sea is a bit of a drama as you have to lift and secure the locker lid then juggle a fuel can around the cockpit obstructions such as the tiller and the main sheet etc. It's not ideal, especially in anything other than flat calm, and even more of a PITA when solo. I want more capacity to avoid having to do this at sea.
The fuel line runs down by gravity from the bottom of the tank through a CAV filter which is situated low down behind the engine. The fuel line then runs to the front of the engine, up through the integral fine filter (drawn by the fuel lift pump?) and into the engine.
Anyone with a Hustler 30 will appreciate that the only way to get to the back of the engine is to lift the floor which in my case means lifting out the large teak gratings then removing 8 x bolts that hold the floor hatch in place and watertight. Even then one has to climb into the stbd forelocker and then go head first down the floor hatch to reach the darned filter. It is a pig of a job and is again really not something I want to be doing at sea, especially in a drama situation. I would much rather be able to access the fuel filter from the front of the engine by lifting out the steps. Sooo much easier.
I also want to fit a diesel heater system this winter and replace the 2 rear engine mounts which are pretty rusty following a floor leak before I rebuilt the hatch a couple of years ago.
So, I have a general plan but there are a couple of associated questions that need answering before I can proceed.
I want more fuel capacity so rather than rip out that perfectly serviceable 20L stainless tank I could just earmark that as the heater tank alone and remove all fuel connections to the engine including the CAV.
Then install another larger plastic tek tank job in the bottom of the port fwd locker. I could then take a fuel line through the bulkhead into the engine bay, refit the CAV in a more convenient spot and run the fuel lines to/from the engine as before. A question arises here. The supply from the old tank has a 'head' of about 24" down to the filter. Given that the new tank would be at pretty much the same level as the CAV would the fuel lift pump on the engine alone have sufficient draw to lift fuel from the tank (through a top feed fitting) through the CAV and then up to the engine? Or will an additional fuel pump likely be required?
Further, I'm gonna lift the engine into the saloon so that I can get all the jobs done with more space, draw the prop shaft and replace the cutless bearing and the PSS seal at the same time. Paint out the bay then remount the engine etc. Can I just replace the 2 rear mounts with alternatives rather than the Yanmar branded gold plated and diamond encrusted ones (they must be so to justify the price!). I believe R&D (?) make suitable replacements that although different should still fit without too much fettling? Can I keep the Yanmars on the front and just replace the rear ones do you think?
Open to suggestions folks....
Kev
