Yanmar 1GM10 Water Pump leak

[Scubafill]

Gents, once again I am looking for advice from the broad band of knowlage out there.

The water pump on my Yanmar 1GM10 has a very slight leak when the engine is running. From the forum, I know is a problem as other owners have reported that the sea water drips on the oil pipe and corrodes it.

I have replaced the "O" ring between the pump and the block, replaced the impeller, the gaskit and cleaned the outer cover. The leak, about 2 or 3 drips a minute, is coming from a machined hole in the pump casing, which I assume is there to allow water to escape.

In addition I have cleaned and painted the oil pipe below the water pump, split a length of fuel pipe and slipped it over the oil pipe to give some protection from the dripping water. I have left the split in the plastic pipe open to allow air to circulate in case of condensation and fixed each end with a cable tie.

A number of questions:

Can I stop the leak by servicing the water pump shaft and bearings, if so where can I get parts ie ss bearing, seals etc?

Is this leak normal, and should I live with it?

If I have to replace the pump where will I get the best buy?

Any of the usaual forum advice or quips apreciated

Phil

 

[steve6367]

The hole is there as you say so you can see the leak. This normally means you need to give the pump a service - probably the shaft seal on the pump. You should be this quickly before the water has chance to cause any other damage.

You local Yanmar dealer will be able to give you the parts / advise you need.

Not sure where on the south coast you are but I use Purbeck Marine at Cobbs Quay in Poole.

 

[nealeb]

From memory, when I had the same problem on my 1GM, there are two seals. One is in the back of the pump and keeps water out of the engine, and there is one on the engine side that keeps oil in the engine. I suspect that the water seal tends to go first as it has to cope with all sorts of abrasive muck in the water. The hole in the shaft housing is to let you know when the water seal starts leaking before too much damage has occurred.

I bought the bits to rebuild the pump from Marine Power at Bursledon, who also recommended that I change the shaft as well as this tends to also get worn.

 

[boatmike]

Both your memory and conclusions are spot on! There's your problem. Agree change the shaft as well.

 

[steve28]

If you wanted a slightly cheaper approach i have had four seasons extra on the actual shaft of the water pump just by spacing the first seal a little further onto the good bit of shaft. This is with new seals and bearings from Bearing Services. cost of the bearings was 4.80 each, new seals 2 pounds each i think.
If you replace the shaft make sure you do the bearings, im sure you will see the play in the ones you have if you reassemble it without the seals .

steve

 

[lydiamight]

Have a look on yanmarhelp.com and you will find complete instructions as to how you should service a water pump for a 1GM10. All of the other responses are quite correct--you need to replace the lip seals on the water pump shaft. If the shaft is not too worn you can get away with just the new seals rather than replacing the shaft as well. Some experts suggest replacing the metal spring on the lip seals with an equivalent sized rubber "O" ring, saves any problem with rusting.

 

[Scubafill]

Thanks guys

Off to my local Yanmar dealer to order a service kit

Phil

 

[ShipsWoofy]

Do you have a contact handy for the parts please?

 

[fastjedi]

Scubafill, Thank You for raising this. I have exactly the same symtom and have also taken similar early steps to ensure the oil pipes are well protected. I plan to remove the pump this weekend and buy a minimum set of parts from Marine Power (the two lip seals and cover gasket?)

I'll take the pump and the parts home for the rebuild ... and order any extra bits by post if necessary. I am hopeful that I won't need a shaft as I am on 150 hours

Let me know how the job goes, particularly if you get to it before me!

Anyone know if there is a gasket between the block and the pump. There doesn't appear to be on diagrams I have seen?

 

[Scubafill]

There is no gasket between the block and the pump caseing just an O ring.

Phil

 

[Scubafill]

Woof

I use a local company Felton Marine Engineering based in Sovereign Marina at Eastbourne. 01323 470211.

Not the cheapest around but he provides a good service and usally supplies parts not in stock within a couple of days.

I think they get the parts from Barrus, the main agents www.barrus.co.uk

Phil

 

[Scubafill]

Fastjedi

Appologies for not using your name in the previous mail. I have done the same ie ordered the two lip seals and a cover gasket. I have been quoted £45 for a replacement shaft (ouch) so if the shaft is scored when I remove the pump or the bearings are shot I will consider a replacement pump.

Based this on the theory if the parts are going to cost more than 50% of replacing the whole componant - bite the bullet - well its better than a new engine I guess /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

As youself I won't get to this till the weekend (another weekend of lost sailing) so keep in touch

Phil

 

[Gunfleet]

I think you might be surprised at just how much the whole bronze pump will cost. I bought one for a YSE8 a few years ago and it was the over £200!

 

[steve28]

Right you lot, there seems to be no cheap conclusive answers apart from yanmar prices and who wants to pay that much so.

got a pen and paper to write this address and phone number down.

Brookfield Precision Engineering
Unit 2, 12 Penrhyn Ave, Rhos on Sea, Colwyn Bay, County of Conwy, North Wales
01492 543703

They will provide you with:
new bearings, new seals, new shaft, new impeller, new o ring, new circlip, new bolts, new gasket.
£72.35 including postage & packaging (UK)

they will also put the bearings on the stainless 316 shaft for you

ps this is not my company /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

http://www.boatsandoutboards.com/client/BPE001

and this is the link i found at the time

 

[Gunfleet]

Now THAT is going on the favourite threads list!

 

[fastjedi]

Yeep! It goes on my favourites list too ..... a new 1GM10 pump is circa £180

Regards,
Ian

 

[ShipsWoofy]

did you have to take the pump into them Steve?

 

[steve28]

No, they just supplied the bits to put back in.
The pumps are a piece of cake to put together, your best off taking the big circlip out that holds the bearings in, then put the pump somewhere hot but not so hot you cant pick it up. This allows you to just push the old bearings out with your fingers complete on the old shaft.(this assumes you have removed the impeller and cover)
Then knock the old seals out using a bit of wooden dowling. Clean it all up and reassemble using the new bits.

For those of you who like living on th edge i also drilled out the inlet and outlet holes to improve the rough casting, it improved the water flow in the before and after test.

 

[pampas]

From personal experience, Get a Stainless shaft made by your local one man engineering outfit, new seal from BSL Limited and cut new gaskets from old charts.
Your new shaft will outlast any bronze on and the total cost will suprise you,
Happy boating.

 

[corncob]

The cause of the problem is the seal tension spring. Its made out of steel, and corrodes. You don't need a new pump. Go to your local bearing traders with the seal, they should be able to replace the seal with a stainless tension spring. Check for a groove on the shaft, they do go belive me. When installing the seal dont push it all the way into the casting. The lip of the seal will rest in a different position on the shaft, allowing you to get more use out of it.