Would you fit engine driven bilge pump?

It looks like the re-engine is going to go ahead with a Beta either 14 with a 12 inch prop or 16 with a 13 inch. We don’t need hot water – but it can be retro fitted.

We are considering an engine driven bilge pump. This is a factory fit option and cannot easily be retro fitted. However, it adds about £700 to the job.

We have decent manual and electric pumps and of course the engine can charge the battery to keep the eletric pump running.

Paean is a 51 year old wooden boat. We do get a bit of water in (about 1/3 bucket every day). But we are in the habit of manually pumping every couple of hours – just to keep her dry. Sailing will be channel / coastal but you never know, one day we may go further.

What does the forum think, is it worth the extra to go with a third pump or would you save the money for somthing else?

Yes. keep your existing pumps as well. you hopefully will nevere need it. If you do you will be glad you have it.
 
Hull tight below the waterline, but dried out and leaking slightly above it?

Pete

That would explain it but I cannot find any evidence. I have been over every part of her sanding, checking etc both inside and out - no luck so far.

After a year of looking, my money is on a water leak from the engine - its old, rusty and one difference between the pontoon and at sea is that the engine sea cock is open. But I guess I have to wait and see if the new engine makes a difference.


Re cracked frames, I have not had a professional survey yet but the shipwrights have been all over her as well and cannot find anything.

Thanks again for everyones help and advice and paitence. It really does make a difference.
 
Yes, and the amount of water it chucks out the exhaust is pretty feeble. Mine is, anyway.

Pete

You'd think that but I'm always amazed how quickly it sucks up a bucket full of antifreeze when I'm doing a winter lay up and that is only at tick over.
 
You'd think that but I'm always amazed how quickly it sucks up a bucket full of antifreeze when I'm doing a winter lay up and that is only at tick over.

Your engine must be thirstier than mine, then. It takes quite a while to get through a bucketful (admittedly it's a big bucket).

Pete
 
You'd think that but I'm always amazed how quickly it sucks up a bucket full of antifreeze when I'm doing a winter lay up and that is only at tick over.

Engine cooling pumps for heat exchanger systems are sized on the basis of 70 l.p.m per 100 hp - 4,200 litres per hour. For a typical yacht diesel they'll be about half that, say 2,000 litres per hour.

My worry with using the engine cooling pump to evacuate bilge water is the possibility of compromising the engine, adding another problem when you're already dealing with water ingress.
 
If you have real emerency you already have an engine driven pump it's the cooling intake pump, just take the cooling water feed hose off the stop valve and fix it as low down in the bige as possible

Or you can have a permanent arrangement by incorporating a Y valve, separate length of hose and strum box to divert water intake from the sea to the bilge.

I planned to do this on a previous boat. Didn't do it in the end, but discussed with a number of people and it all seemed pretty feasible and simple.
 
Or you can have a permanent arrangement by incorporating a Y valve, separate length of hose and strum box to divert water intake from the sea to the bilge.

The previous owner of my boat did something like this but on the toilet pump.

It's a legitimate thing to do with the big chunky Henderson pump on a Lavac, but this was the normal puny Jabsco. I don't subscribe to the "frightened man with bucket" idea, many bilge pumps are more effective, but the bucket would definitely win here!

It's surprising how much easier it is to get at the seacocks now that all that surplus piping has been removed.

Pete
 
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