Tranona
Well-Known Member
Going offshore.
Not sure that makes much difference! The probability of damage such that a powerful pump like that would be useful is very low wherever you are. Yachts - even old wooden ones are really difficult to sink!
Going offshore.
It looks like the re-engine is going to go ahead with a Beta either 14 with a 12 inch prop or 16 with a 13 inch. We don’t need hot water – but it can be retro fitted.
We are considering an engine driven bilge pump. This is a factory fit option and cannot easily be retro fitted. However, it adds about £700 to the job.
We have decent manual and electric pumps and of course the engine can charge the battery to keep the eletric pump running.
Paean is a 51 year old wooden boat. We do get a bit of water in (about 1/3 bucket every day). But we are in the habit of manually pumping every couple of hours – just to keep her dry. Sailing will be channel / coastal but you never know, one day we may go further.
What does the forum think, is it worth the extra to go with a third pump or would you save the money for somthing else?
Hull tight below the waterline, but dried out and leaking slightly above it?
Pete
Yes, and the amount of water it chucks out the exhaust is pretty feeble. Mine is, anyway.
Pete
You'd think that but I'm always amazed how quickly it sucks up a bucket full of antifreeze when I'm doing a winter lay up and that is only at tick over.
You'd think that but I'm always amazed how quickly it sucks up a bucket full of antifreeze when I'm doing a winter lay up and that is only at tick over.
If you have real emerency you already have an engine driven pump it's the cooling intake pump, just take the cooling water feed hose off the stop valve and fix it as low down in the bige as possible
Or you can have a permanent arrangement by incorporating a Y valve, separate length of hose and strum box to divert water intake from the sea to the bilge.