Working with an electric outboard - advice needed!

[cpedw]

I have succumbed to the attraction of an outboard for the dinghy and chose an Epropulsion Spirit 1+. I tried it out for the first time today and found it quite scary though without any disaster in the end!

I'm inexperienced with any sort of outboard. The rest of the equipment is a 2m round tail 3D tender with an outboard bracket. The boat is a Nordship 35DS which has a small swimming platform in the transom.

I tried to attach the engine to the dinghy separately without the battery fitted, from the dinghy. I reckoned that would make it more manoeuvrable. That worked fairly well but when I tried to attach the battery, I came close to tipping the dinghy bows over stern. That was unnerving. A 20l water tank up front in the dinghy helped. When it came to unshipping the engine, I was sensible enough to secure the dinghy directly under the pulpit and to sit on the swim platform rather than in the dinghy to remove the battery then the engine. That worked better but it still felt insecure even though the conditions were very benign. And I got wet feet as it drained; I hadn't expected that.

I have since seen the thread Outboard hoist which has got me thinking that a strap around the assembled battery+engine might be easier to handle. I'd prefer to avoid a davit if possible; the engine is reasonably light if unwieldy.

What tips can you offer to ease me into motorised dinghying?

Thanks,
Derek

 

[adwuk]

Best tip I can offer is to get a better dinghy. Something at least 2.4m, standard transom, with an air deck would give you a much more stable platform to handle an engine. A round tail with an engine bracket has you reaching too far aft, and will put you off balance, especially in a small 2m tender.

 

[[2574]]

Best tip I can offer is to get a better dinghy. Something at least 2.4m, standard transom, with an air deck would give you a much more stable platform to handle an engine. A round tail with an engine bracket has you reaching too far aft, and will put you off balance, especially in a small 2m tender.

We have an Avon 2.4m Rover dinghy. Sponsons extend probably 300mm aft of the wooden transom which provides plenty of aft end buoyancy for handling the Epropulsion on/off the boat. We always separate battery and drive unit to minimise weight. We generally have a line around each part to avoid any expensive mishaps - though the battery unit does float. As you say it’s about the dinghy.

 

[Boathook]

I have succumbed to the attraction of an outboard for the dinghy and chose an Epropulsion Spirit 1+. I tried it out for the first time today and found it quite scary though without any disaster in the end!

I'm inexperienced with any sort of outboard. The rest of the equipment is a 2m round tail 3D tender with an outboard bracket. The boat is a Nordship 35DS which has a small swimming platform in the transom.

I tried to attach the engine to the dinghy separately without the battery fitted, from the dinghy. I reckoned that would make it more manoeuvrable. That worked fairly well but when I tried to attach the battery, I came close to tipping the dinghy bows over stern. That was unnerving. A 20l water tank up front in the dinghy helped. When it came to unshipping the engine, I was sensible enough to secure the dinghy directly under the pulpit and to sit on the swim platform rather than in the dinghy to remove the battery then the engine. That worked better but it still felt insecure even though the conditions were very benign. And I got wet feet as it drained; I hadn't expected that.

I have since seen the thread Outboard hoist which has got me thinking that a strap around the assembled battery+engine might be easier to handle. I'd prefer to avoid a davit if possible; the engine is reasonably light if unwieldy.

What tips can you offer to ease me into motorised dinghying?

Thanks,
Derek

A few tips in the latest edition (number 678) of PBO. Its in the sketchbook by Dick Everitt on page 90. If it wasn't so recent I might have posted a scan of it.

 

[Tranona]

Agree a round tail 3D particularly a 2m is really not suitable for an outboard as you have found out. Too light, tubes too small and the wrong shape. I have a 2.3m and would not dream of using an outboard on it. Fine for light use and rowing but not for serious use as a motorised tender. As suggested you need a 2.3m+ hard transom preferably airdeck floor for a working tender. Far more stable and buoyancy aft to take the weight of the engine plus you without the bow flipping. Go for the largest tubes preferably 36cm+ diameter on a 2.4m. Plenty of choice around the £5-600 mark for budget brands such as Windward or Seago or £800-1000 for premium brands such as Zodiac or Honwave. If budget is a problem I have a perfectly good Plastimo 2.7m with slatted floor for sale for not a lot - but it is in Poole. PM me if interested and I can send photos - I have listed on the For sale bit of the forum.

 

[cpedw]

Reporting back ...
I persevered with the existing dinghy and invested in an extension cable so the battery can be located under the dinghy seat. That solved the tendency to upend the dinghy.
A sail tie cunningly tied round the top of the motor to form a handle has made it much easier to get on and off the bracket. The battery, though heavier, is much easier to manoeuvre as it's got a built-in handle.
I'm happy with the current arrangement. I just hope I remember the moves needed to get the motor on and off its bracket when next season comes round.

Derek

 

[seajayare]

Just had same experience with a 2.5m round tail 3D and epropulsion spirit. I think the extension and sail tie are genius ideas

 

[FairweatherDave]

But have you seen the price of the 2m extension lead? £140....ouch.

 

[cpedw]

But have you seen the price of the 2m extension lead? £140....ouch.

There's the rub. I got mine for about £100 in July. I thought that was exorbitant.
Judging by the plugs and sockets, it's just 4 heavy wires and 4 light wires. It would be feasible to cut the plug off the motor's flying lead and make up a cable using that plug to connect to the battery socket then choose your own plugs and sockets for the motor end. Wave the warranty goodbye though.