Wiring a blower

[billyfish]

Hi all , I am installing a heater blower that will be run from the Volvo di30 inboard engines cooling system. I want to take the power for the fan from the ignition switch so it goes off when the engine is off . Anyone know if that is possible and which wire it might be . Cant find a wiring diagram, even if I did I'm not sure I will understand it !

 

[Moodysailor]

The later D1-30 engines use an MDI unit, so I would not advise taking any power from those connections (others here may have more up to date information than me, i've been out of the VP game a few years now).

My suggestion would be to wire a relay to the blower, using the alternator D+ to switch the relay. If you use a 5 pin relay it can be configured for NC or NO (on when live or off when live). The other advantage is that you can take the power from the blower directly from a fuse/breaker, meaning that if it ever short-circuited it wouldn't risk taking out the engine panel or control unit.

 

[VicS]

Hi all , I am installing a heater blower that will be run from the Volvo di30 inboard engines cooling system. I want to take the power for the fan from the ignition switch so it goes off when the engine is off . Anyone know if that is possible and which wire it might be . Cant find a wiring diagram, even if I did I'm not sure I will understand it !

Did you mean a Volvo Penta D1-30 ?

Provided you are not looking at one with the MDI system you will find wiring diagrams in the manual at https://j109.org/docs/volvo_d1-30_workshop_manual.pdf (page 100 et seq )

ITYWF that the terminal on the ignition switch is the one with the red/black wires attached labelled 15b but 15a can also be used Perhaps more sensible to use 15a

Depending on the current your blower requires you may want to control it via a relay

 

[oldmanofthehills]

If it has an ignition switch then that is the easiest place to wire it.

That is what I did for our 12v fridge, though the Yanmar YM30 control panel has a handy output from the switch already provided. You need a cheap multimeter to tell when you have 12v switching as you turn key (or a circuit diagram and confidence). I would go via relay just in case the fan load is greater than the switch unit or its supply is capable - I tried without and on plugging in fridge popped the fuse mid voyage so suddenly unable to stop or start engine until I crawled in bilges and found the fuseholder.

 

[jwfrary]

Often looms have offshoots labelled as 'enable' or something like that for use with electronic control modules for various uses, worth looking. The manual linked above looks like its for the early engines.

You should be able to get your manual with your engine no from the volvo website.

You might consider a thermostat in the circuit that way your blower will turn off at a certain cabin temp! You might also consider isolation valves in case the matrix fails and drops your coolant everywhere!

 

[VicS]

Often looms have offshoots labelled as 'enable' or something like that for use with electronic control modules for various uses, worth looking. The manual linked above looks like its for the early engines.

You should be able to get your manual with your engine no from the volvo website.

You might consider a thermostat in the circuit that way your blower will turn off at a certain cabin temp! You might also consider isolation valves in case the matrix fails and drops your coolant everywhere!

It is indeed and only applies to the "A" series but presumably from the reference to an ignition switch that is what the OP has.

The "B" series onwards have the MDI system.
Here is a link to the manual for the MDI system. https://mantaowners.org/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/VOLVO-PENTA-D1-30B-ELECTRICAL.pdf

Owners manuals are available for free download from VP's website but they do not include wiring diagrams for the more recent engines
Workshop manuals are available for purchase only.

 

[billyfish]

Thank you all, making me nervous. The model is a 2005 D1/30 with a MDI and has the type A switching with looking at the above diagram it looks like there is a option for additional equipment on pin 3 wires red and blue. The blower is , I think , 10 amp. It's going to be located near the battery box so will probably take it straight off the house bank and leave the engine alone.

 

[Moodysailor]

Thank you all, making me nervous. The model is a 2005 D1/30 with a MDI and has the type A switching with looking at the above diagram it looks like there is a option for additional equipment on pin 3 wires red and blue. The blower is , I think , 10 amp. It's going to be located near the battery box so will probably take it straight off the house bank and leave the engine alone.

At 10 amps it will need it's own circuit with fuse/breaker, so you would need to run an independent power source via a switch/relay. Red/Blue could be used for switching a relay, that is the charge warning (same as D+ on the alternator) if it's the early type with conventional panel.

 

[oldmanofthehills]

At 10 amps it will need it's own circuit with fuse/breaker, so you would need to run an independent power source via a switch/relay. Red/Blue could be used for switching a relay, that is the charge warning (same as D+ on the alternator) if it's the early type with conventional panel.

10A would mean a 120VA blower which would noticeably generate some of its own heat. Thats a heck of a big blower. I suspect a sensible blower is more likely 40VA or less, so probably 5A max. I would still go via relay

 

[billyfish]

Thanks. I could well have the amperage wrong. Sounds like it. It's only little. I have a 3 speed switch and a valve for the hot water. Going with a fused circuit from the house batteries. I'll be able to start the engine if I forget to turn it off. Cheers stay sane you'll ?

 

[VicS]

Did you mean a Volvo Penta D1-30 ?

Provided you are not looking at one with the MDI system you will find wiring diagrams in the manual at https://j109.org/docs/volvo_d1-30_workshop_manual.pdf (page 100 et seq )

ITYWF that the terminal on the ignition switch is the one with the red/black wires attached labelled 15b but 15a can also be used Perhaps more sensible to use 15a

Depending on the current your blower requires you may want to control it via a relay

Correction to my earlier post,
it should read red/blue , not red/black