wire splices

[Jack B]

Hi,
I was wondering how easily you can put eye splices into 5mm steel wire for shrouds. I can compently splice in rope, so i was wondering how easy it would be to do it with just a marlinspike and fid and therefore getting no new and expensive equiment.
thanks,
jack

 

[mikefleetwood]

I have seen local fishermen splice an eye in the end of a cable by opening up the cable with a spike, folding the end of the cable round and poking the entire end through the hole, then open a second hole a bit futher along and poke the tail through again. Tidy up the end by wrapping with gaffer tape.

I expect you will want something that looks a bit tidier, though.

Easiest, for small cables is to loop th eye round a former, then clamp 2 or 3 times - looks fairly tidy, and as strong as any other method.

 

[prv]

I've been meaning to learn how to splice wire, but at this point it still seems like a bit of a black art to me, the kind of thing you hunt out a wizened old bosun to learn from . I know it involves a specialised vise, but that might just be for bigger sizes.

Alternatives would be bulldog grips as Mike suggests, or several racking seizings made with smaller wire. The latter is what's used on Stavros's wire-work, painted in contrasting colours.

Pete

 

[nigel1]

Liverpool eye splice
http://www.flickr.com/photos/squarerigger/sets/72157600183894973/

Practise first, there is a technique to using the spike, lots of novices make the mistake of using the spike to open the wire up too close to the eye. Trick is to open the wire a good distance from the eye, make the tuck, and use the spike to wind the tuck down to the eye

 

[prv]

Liverpool eye splice
http://www.flickr.com/photos/squarerigger/sets/72157600183894973/

Brilliant - thanks!

Pete

 

[afterpegassus]

If the wire is normal six stranded steel wire then a splice is relatively straightforward with your first tucks going the opposite way to which you would tuck a rope and then rather than under and over as you would a rope, each strand is then run up around the same strand it was first tucked under. Set it (pound)with a mallet and dress the ends.
If however you are talking about 1 x 19 stainless as is the norm for shrouds, then I cannot help as I have never done one but I would think it would be a lot less straightforward with a good chance of having lots of deformed strands.

 

[philip_stevens]

If the wire is normal six stranded steel wire then a splice is relatively straightforward with your first tucks going the opposite way to which you would tuck a rope and then rather than under and over as you would a rope, each strand is then run up around the same strand it was first tucked under. Set it (pound)with a mallet and dress the ends.
If however you are talking about 1 x 19 stainless as is the norm for shrouds, then I cannot help as I have never done one but I would think it would be a lot less straightforward with a good chance of having lots of deformed strands.

This was the old method that is now not allowed in the MN. I think this was the Liverpool method, but wire spliced should now be worked like a rope splice.

 

[prv]

This was the old method that is now not allowed in the MN. I think this was the Liverpool method, but wire spliced should now be worked like a rope splice.

Any idea why the change?

Pete

 

[AndrewF]

A Liverpool splice should be ok for standing rigging, however it does have a habit of opening up if it spins with a weight on it. Therefore the best one to use is a bullivent which After the first set of tucks the strands go over 2 under 1. Also remember that you will have to remove the core which in rigging wire is also wire. To make it really neat after 3 full tucks reduce the size of the strands and do 2 more tucks.
I would also like to point out that there is a correct way of using bulldog grips. Incorrectly fitted bulldog grips holding strength is greatly reduced and at times can be worthless.

 

[nigel1]

A Liverpool splice should be ok for standing rigging, however it does have a habit of opening up if it spins with a weight on it. Therefore the best one to use is a bullivent which After the first set of tucks the strands go over 2 under 1. Also remember that you will have to remove the core which in rigging wire is also wire. To make it really neat after 3 full tucks reduce the size of the strands and do 2 more tucks.
I would also like to point out that there is a correct way of using bulldog grips. Incorrectly fitted bulldog grips holding strength is greatly reduced and at times can be worthless.

The Bullivent splice was used for such things as cargo derrick runners, wires that would rotate in use. It incorporates a locking tuck in the first round, i.e. one wire is tucked under a strand, and the next wire is tucked under the same strand in the opposite direction. The wires are laid up against the lay. In my mind, its a safe and reliable splice, but looks a bit messy.
My own preferred method is a combination of a Flemish eye, and finished with a Liverpool type splice, with the wires being tucked with the lay, rather than against.

Largest wire that I've done this with was 64mm, many years ago on an old salvage tug, needed to make up a towing pennant quickly, proof was it held up for a tow from Bangladesh to Singapore

 

[2Tizwoz]

A Liverpool splice should be ok for standing rigging, however it does have a habit of opening up if it spins with a weight on it.

This youtube video shows the problem http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SirC9QmHSnI

 

[Bilgediver]

The Bullivent splice was used for such things as cargo derrick runners, wires that would rotate in use. It incorporates a locking tuck in the first round, i.e. one wire is tucked under a strand, and the next wire is tucked under the same strand in the opposite direction. The wires are laid up against the lay. In my mind, its a safe and reliable splice, but looks a bit messy.
My own preferred method is a combination of a Flemish eye, and finished with a Liverpool type splice, with the wires being tucked with the lay, rather than against.

Largest wire that I've done this with was 64mm, many years ago on an old salvage tug, needed to make up a towing pennant quickly, proof was it held up for a tow from Bangladesh to Singapore

We used flemish eyes on the rigs and when testing different ones at the mining test centre at Bretby we included a test of a 3" Flemish eye with the loose ends untucked beyond the eye.. It held and the wire broke though only secured with whipping.

 

[afterpegassus]

We used flemish eyes on the rigs and when testing different ones at the mining test centre at Bretby we included a test of a 3" Flemish eye with the loose ends untucked beyond the eye.. It held and the wire broke though only secured with whipping.

The best thing about a Flemish eye is the speed with which it can be formed.
Still don't know which wire the OP wants to splice.

 

[Deleted member 36384]

..... I would also like to point out that there is a correct way of using bulldog grips. Incorrectly fitted bulldog grips holding strength is greatly reduced and at times can be worthless.

Bulldog clips are fitted such that the U bolt part is on the dead (bitter) end and the saddle is on the standing part of the wire. The phrase "never saddle a dead horse" can be used to remember the correct orientation. When joining two lengths its best to make two loops around thimbles and join with a shackle if using bulldog clips as in an emergency repair.

You can buy alternatives to bulldog clips that dont have the U Bold / Saddle issue.

 

[wklein]

Why bother?

Splicing standing rigging on boats has died except on classic yachts when it is done for authenticity. It is very difficult to splice 1x19 wire and 7x7 stretches too much for modern yachts. You never know how well the splice has been done and how evenly the strands are taking the load, you also significantly work harden stainless steel wire by bending it to splice.

If your looking to save money its 5mm wire is pretty easy to talaurit and my local riggers will do it for under 4 pound an end if you bring it in. otherwise look at doing stalok terminals, very easy as long as you follow the rules very reliable and can be recycled when you change the wire or if there is a problem.