jouet950
New Member
Hello Does anyone have a simple check list for winterising a yacht?
<hr width=100% size=1>Hugh
<hr width=100% size=1>Hugh
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Winterising
- Thread starter jouet950
- Start date
petersto
Well-Known Member
Just look back through previous posts. There must be acres on it 'a fountain of knowledge'.
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StephenW
Well-Known Member
Suggest you divide into layup and pre-launch. Depends how far you want to go, but mine is...
LAYUP
Sails/Rigging - strip sails and rigging(leave mouse-lines), carefully inspect and repair sails then store in loft, wash running rigging after clearly identifying colout/length/purpose.
Engine - change engine oil, remove impellor, antifreeze into seawater feed (run engine briefly ashore) to winterise engine. Diesel bug additive to diesel and fill to brim.
Electrics - check instruments, silicone connections where left bare, check fluid and recharge batteries monthly and
Hull- pressure wash old antifouling and clean any stains to hull. Polish. CXheck anode.
Woodwork - clean/brighten and varnish exposed woodwork and any scuffed interior
PRELAUNCH
Engine - New oil/fuel filters at pre-launch. Claen any any water separators/prefilters. Check engine alignment when afloat.
Hull - antifoul close to launch date, including shaft, prop and all inlets (my worst fouling this year was in through hull fittings
Rig - replace running rigging
...not exhaustive but the main bits!
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LAYUP
Sails/Rigging - strip sails and rigging(leave mouse-lines), carefully inspect and repair sails then store in loft, wash running rigging after clearly identifying colout/length/purpose.
Engine - change engine oil, remove impellor, antifreeze into seawater feed (run engine briefly ashore) to winterise engine. Diesel bug additive to diesel and fill to brim.
Electrics - check instruments, silicone connections where left bare, check fluid and recharge batteries monthly and
Hull- pressure wash old antifouling and clean any stains to hull. Polish. CXheck anode.
Woodwork - clean/brighten and varnish exposed woodwork and any scuffed interior
PRELAUNCH
Engine - New oil/fuel filters at pre-launch. Claen any any water separators/prefilters. Check engine alignment when afloat.
Hull - antifoul close to launch date, including shaft, prop and all inlets (my worst fouling this year was in through hull fittings
Rig - replace running rigging
...not exhaustive but the main bits!
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HeadMistress
Well-Known Member
interising Plumbing
Fresh water system
1. Drain the water tanks completely (just turn on all the faucets).
2. Drain water heater. Most have a drain petcock; follow manufacturer’s instructions to find it and use it. Remove both the inlet and outlet hoses, and if necessary use a shop vac to be sure of gettting all the water out of it.
3.Connect water heater inlet and outlet hoses together. Bypass kits for this purpose are available from boat stores and RV supply stores.
4. Add non-toxic antifreeze ("the pink stuff") and pump that through the system until all outlets--hot and cold in the galley, head, shower, and any deck wash--run only antifreeze. Leave all the faucets open to make sure there is no pressure in the system.
Sanitation system
1. Pump holding tank out, then rinse thoroughly by completely filling with fresh water and 1 gallon of white vinegar twice.
2. Close toilet intake through-hull, disconnect inlet hose and stick it in a gallon of non-toxic ("the pink stuff") antifreeze. Pump the whole gallon through the system into the holding tank. Do not reconnect head intake hose to the through-hull.
3. Pump the head 50 times to get as much fluid out of the system as possible.
4. After the boat comes out of the water, open all the sea cocks to drain any trapped water.
Do not use antifreeze in a Lectra/San or PuraSan. Follow manufacturers instructions to winterize all Type I and II MSDs.
<hr width=100% size=1>Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Fresh water system
1. Drain the water tanks completely (just turn on all the faucets).
2. Drain water heater. Most have a drain petcock; follow manufacturer’s instructions to find it and use it. Remove both the inlet and outlet hoses, and if necessary use a shop vac to be sure of gettting all the water out of it.
3.Connect water heater inlet and outlet hoses together. Bypass kits for this purpose are available from boat stores and RV supply stores.
4. Add non-toxic antifreeze ("the pink stuff") and pump that through the system until all outlets--hot and cold in the galley, head, shower, and any deck wash--run only antifreeze. Leave all the faucets open to make sure there is no pressure in the system.
Sanitation system
1. Pump holding tank out, then rinse thoroughly by completely filling with fresh water and 1 gallon of white vinegar twice.
2. Close toilet intake through-hull, disconnect inlet hose and stick it in a gallon of non-toxic ("the pink stuff") antifreeze. Pump the whole gallon through the system into the holding tank. Do not reconnect head intake hose to the through-hull.
3. Pump the head 50 times to get as much fluid out of the system as possible.
4. After the boat comes out of the water, open all the sea cocks to drain any trapped water.
Do not use antifreeze in a Lectra/San or PuraSan. Follow manufacturers instructions to winterize all Type I and II MSDs.
<hr width=100% size=1>Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
HeadMistress
Well-Known Member
Winterizing a sailboat
Also found this far more complete list in my files. How much of it you consider necessary is up to you:
Winterizing Your Boat
Whether the boat is under a cover or not, There are a number of things you
should do:
1. On sailboats, strip and clean winches. This gets rid of the salt residue
that could combine with the winch grease to clog the gears next season.
2. Remove the compass and stow it in a cool, dry place. If you leave
your compass exposed to the sun, the alcohol could expand and seep out. When
the alcohol cools, a bubble will form at the top of the compass.
3. Remove all electronic instruments from your cockpit or bridge
unless they are bolted down. Exposed instruments may get battered by the
weather and malfunction next year- or they may get stolen.
4. Scrub and oil teak decking and covering boards before covering the boat.
This will help preserve the teak over the winter when cold and dry winds may
desecrate it.
5. Make sure that you have built up several coats of varnish on brightwork.
Many experts we talked to consider seven to nine coats a minimum for a New
England or Florida winter. Without varnish protection, fresh water can
penetrate into cracks and turn wood black. If you build up enough layers of
varnish, you will only have to cut the top layer back before applying a new
layer next year.
6. We recommend that all masts be removed. This helps prevent fatigue damage
to mast fittings and the hull. It also exposes less windage to the might of
winter's gale, making your boat less vulnerable to being blown over. (If you
cannot remove the mast, make sure you tie the halyards away from the mast.
At 4 a.m. on a Winter's morning, clanging halyards are a way of showing
your neighbor's how inconsiderate one may be. Masts are made of several
different types of metals, and corrosion can occur even in winter if they
are not adequately insulated from one another. When the mast has been pulled
from the boat, you should remove the windex, wind instruments and any
masthead antenna. These will be safer at home. Use messenger lines and
remove all the halyards. They should be soaked in warm soapy water to remove
salt and to keep them soft and pliable. Remove the roller furling gear and
store it under cover. Over the winter it should be serviced and cleaned.
Finally, check all the toggles and pins to make sure they are not bent.
Replace any that show signs of stress or bending. Also, check each shroud
and spreader ending for signs of corrosion or wear. If you find problems,
get a qualified Rigger to look the rig over.
7. Pull the anchors and anchor chain from their lockers, power-wash them and
lay them out. Check anchor pins and bow rollerpins and replace bent ones.
This is a good time to mark your chain. Mark it at 1 fathom for the first 10
fathoms and then at 2- or 3-fathom intervals. This way, you'll know how much
of the rode is out. Use a white painted link for one fathom, red for two,
green for three, blue for four, and so forth. Wind a short length of wire
around a link at 10 fathams so you can tell by feel. Paint two links when
you run out of colors. Wind a length of wire around two links at 20 fathoms
and so on . Clean the chain locker( making sure drains are clear) and the
bow roller and get the windlass serviced.
8. Check all the stanchions and lifelines. If a stanchion has been bent
it should be replaced. If a stanchion base has come loose it should be
removed, recaulked and bedded with stronger backing plates.Check
plastic-covered lifelines for nicks and cuts. A cut can let salt water
through the plastic where it can corrode the wire core, rendering the
lifeline useless.
9. At the helm, remove the steering wheel and get the steering gear checked
out. If it Is wire, make sure it is greased and oiled and that all sheaves
have guards and run freely. Check hydraulic steering for leaks and dips.
Make sure that all seals, valves and lines are free of corrosion.
10. Remove all gratings and loose woodwork. These can be taken home and
stored in a dry, warm area where you can work on them over the winter. If
you wish, you can schedule varnishing or oiling while the gear is out of the
boat.
11. Remove dodgers, awnings and biminis. Carefully roll any clear plastic
windows and store them where they won't be damaged. Any service work should
be scheduled over the winter when rates are lower and and time is available.
On a sailboat, remove all sails, take them home and wash them with warm
soapy water. Dry sails carefully, fold them and store them where mice or
vermin cannot get at them, or take them to a sail loft for maintenance. If
you do it yourself, check your sails over carefully. Look for torn stitches
along each seam. Check each corner of the sail for distortion in the "D" or
"O" rings. Look for stress lines and delamination radiating out from the
corner. Also check the luff tape for wear and rips. If you see any of the
above, the sail should go to a sailmaker for repair. Take it in early.
Sailmakers are glad for the work in winter,
and you can probably negotiate a lower rate than during the spring rush.
12. Make sure hatches are dogged down tight and locked. Boats left open
under a winter cover do get better air circulation, but they may also
attract thieves or vagrants.
13. Remove your life raft, life jackets and harnesses. Send the life raft
back for a checkup. Examine your life jackets and harnesses. If the life
jackets are inflatable, have your dealer check them and replace The inflator
mechanisms if needed.
14. If you have a dinghy, take it home.Don't leave it in the dinghy rack all
winter. It may need a little TLC or varnishing. If you regularly leave it in
the water, make sure the bottom is cleaned and anti-fouled. Check the rub
rail and fenders to ensure that no screw heads (that can scratch up your
topsides) are protruding.
<hr width=100% size=1>Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Also found this far more complete list in my files. How much of it you consider necessary is up to you:
Winterizing Your Boat
Whether the boat is under a cover or not, There are a number of things you
should do:
1. On sailboats, strip and clean winches. This gets rid of the salt residue
that could combine with the winch grease to clog the gears next season.
2. Remove the compass and stow it in a cool, dry place. If you leave
your compass exposed to the sun, the alcohol could expand and seep out. When
the alcohol cools, a bubble will form at the top of the compass.
3. Remove all electronic instruments from your cockpit or bridge
unless they are bolted down. Exposed instruments may get battered by the
weather and malfunction next year- or they may get stolen.
4. Scrub and oil teak decking and covering boards before covering the boat.
This will help preserve the teak over the winter when cold and dry winds may
desecrate it.
5. Make sure that you have built up several coats of varnish on brightwork.
Many experts we talked to consider seven to nine coats a minimum for a New
England or Florida winter. Without varnish protection, fresh water can
penetrate into cracks and turn wood black. If you build up enough layers of
varnish, you will only have to cut the top layer back before applying a new
layer next year.
6. We recommend that all masts be removed. This helps prevent fatigue damage
to mast fittings and the hull. It also exposes less windage to the might of
winter's gale, making your boat less vulnerable to being blown over. (If you
cannot remove the mast, make sure you tie the halyards away from the mast.
At 4 a.m. on a Winter's morning, clanging halyards are a way of showing
your neighbor's how inconsiderate one may be. Masts are made of several
different types of metals, and corrosion can occur even in winter if they
are not adequately insulated from one another. When the mast has been pulled
from the boat, you should remove the windex, wind instruments and any
masthead antenna. These will be safer at home. Use messenger lines and
remove all the halyards. They should be soaked in warm soapy water to remove
salt and to keep them soft and pliable. Remove the roller furling gear and
store it under cover. Over the winter it should be serviced and cleaned.
Finally, check all the toggles and pins to make sure they are not bent.
Replace any that show signs of stress or bending. Also, check each shroud
and spreader ending for signs of corrosion or wear. If you find problems,
get a qualified Rigger to look the rig over.
7. Pull the anchors and anchor chain from their lockers, power-wash them and
lay them out. Check anchor pins and bow rollerpins and replace bent ones.
This is a good time to mark your chain. Mark it at 1 fathom for the first 10
fathoms and then at 2- or 3-fathom intervals. This way, you'll know how much
of the rode is out. Use a white painted link for one fathom, red for two,
green for three, blue for four, and so forth. Wind a short length of wire
around a link at 10 fathams so you can tell by feel. Paint two links when
you run out of colors. Wind a length of wire around two links at 20 fathoms
and so on . Clean the chain locker( making sure drains are clear) and the
bow roller and get the windlass serviced.
8. Check all the stanchions and lifelines. If a stanchion has been bent
it should be replaced. If a stanchion base has come loose it should be
removed, recaulked and bedded with stronger backing plates.Check
plastic-covered lifelines for nicks and cuts. A cut can let salt water
through the plastic where it can corrode the wire core, rendering the
lifeline useless.
9. At the helm, remove the steering wheel and get the steering gear checked
out. If it Is wire, make sure it is greased and oiled and that all sheaves
have guards and run freely. Check hydraulic steering for leaks and dips.
Make sure that all seals, valves and lines are free of corrosion.
10. Remove all gratings and loose woodwork. These can be taken home and
stored in a dry, warm area where you can work on them over the winter. If
you wish, you can schedule varnishing or oiling while the gear is out of the
boat.
11. Remove dodgers, awnings and biminis. Carefully roll any clear plastic
windows and store them where they won't be damaged. Any service work should
be scheduled over the winter when rates are lower and and time is available.
On a sailboat, remove all sails, take them home and wash them with warm
soapy water. Dry sails carefully, fold them and store them where mice or
vermin cannot get at them, or take them to a sail loft for maintenance. If
you do it yourself, check your sails over carefully. Look for torn stitches
along each seam. Check each corner of the sail for distortion in the "D" or
"O" rings. Look for stress lines and delamination radiating out from the
corner. Also check the luff tape for wear and rips. If you see any of the
above, the sail should go to a sailmaker for repair. Take it in early.
Sailmakers are glad for the work in winter,
and you can probably negotiate a lower rate than during the spring rush.
12. Make sure hatches are dogged down tight and locked. Boats left open
under a winter cover do get better air circulation, but they may also
attract thieves or vagrants.
13. Remove your life raft, life jackets and harnesses. Send the life raft
back for a checkup. Examine your life jackets and harnesses. If the life
jackets are inflatable, have your dealer check them and replace The inflator
mechanisms if needed.
14. If you have a dinghy, take it home.Don't leave it in the dinghy rack all
winter. It may need a little TLC or varnishing. If you regularly leave it in
the water, make sure the bottom is cleaned and anti-fouled. Check the rub
rail and fenders to ensure that no screw heads (that can scratch up your
topsides) are protruding.
<hr width=100% size=1>Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
StephenW
Well-Known Member
PS Don't forget to service sea cocks - blakes type cone-valves should be removed, cleaned, lubrictaed with seacock grease and replaced, ensuring any electrical cross-bonding is maintained
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jouet950
New Member
Many thanks.
<hr width=100% size=1>Hugh
<hr width=100% size=1>Hugh
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