Winter 2007/2008 in Canaries/Cape Verde - any experiences?

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looly

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Hi

We are now on the countdown to our departure. We moved onto our boat in Oct 2005 and have been living aboard ever since - now I can see the light (and hopefully sun) at the end of the tunnel and would love to learn from any experiences and if anyone else is doing something similar this year, it would be great to hook up somewhere along the way.

The plan - this changes constantly, but I think at least the part to Spain is likely to stay the same now.
We are planning to have a leisurely sail from Poole to Falmouth starting mid May(ish) and then wait there for a weather window to cross Biscay (heading for La Coruna or similar).
This should hopefully mean we get to the North coast of Spain in June sometime. The plan is then to cruise the rias etc and then head down the coast of Spain and Portugal. We are in no rush but will probably end up in the Canaries by October.

We had originally planned to winter in Malta, however as we will only have just set off, I like the idea of continuing to sail over winter so thought that the Canaries / Cape Verde islands would be a good choice. Has anyone else done this, or does everyone hop across the pond straight away?

I have also read a lot of increasingly negative feeback on the med - is it still worth / possible exploring the med in summer when on a limited budget (ie anchoring etc). Or would you recommend we explore the carribean instead.
We only have a few years of cruising, before we will need to head back to land and become responsible citizens again (I'm only 33, so unfortunately this isn't a retirement option).

Any info/advice would be greatly appreciated
Cheers & heres to 2007 /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
We left Scotland in August on a 27ft boat and are currently cruising in the Canaries for the Winter, then planning to head back up to the Azores in Spring.

We spent Christmas and New Year on La Gomera, then sailed from there to La Palma yesterday. We were swimming on New Year's Day and sailing in the open sea in just shorts yesterday. The marina here is costing us six euros a night and includes free electricity and the use of the Club Nautico facilities (including wifi)

You can read more on our blog at http://www.znoy8.co.uk

Nick
 
If you want to come to the med Great!! the more the better!The med port wise in summers quite full but you will alway find a place to park and shop??

In larger ports anyway such as Antibes where you can stay long enough to reach Geoferrys (ill post a link with good spelling if you want) to buy your frey bentos meat pies and tins of green British potatoes!

The more the better becouse the bays are becomeing so full jet and water ski boats cant go!! Safty in numbers!

On the down side if you dont come to the med now it might be to late later as many mayors are fed up with their veiw of the bays being "ruined" by anchord boats!!

I suspect extra banns are a way off but bays have been bouyed off since the 1996 saint Maxim where i would spend April the only boat at anchor for two weeks!! I met several woman that swim in the morning!

Come to the med its great! Full but fun!! You have to spend a year or two hear practice for the carabean???? (never been there should i go there??)
 
Head for the Canaries. Give the Med a miss. Overpriced, Overcrowded and Overrated. We have done the lot over the last 20 years and presently getting ready to leave for other parts. Canaries and then S. America. Unless you really want to go to Antibes for a Fray Bentos Pie !!!!!!!!
 
"I have also read a lot of increasingly negative feeback on the med"


We have cruised the Med for 6 years and have not much to complain about.

You indicate being on a low budget? Forget the Carribbean, unless you intend to go to Cuba or other South American destinations.

Sardenia, the north, Corsica, Elba, and not to forget Greece. Take a look at http://www.home.online.no/~pernoll/ and you will understand why.

Some Norwegians tended to go around in Spain and on Crete asking for "kjøttboller" their National dish. Boats flying the Red/Blue ensign seem to have a similar idea of their intake.

Come to Corfu and you will find all the baked been you want. Stop in Gibraltar to get UK grown potatoes as well as genuine UK produced eggs (at the double price of what you can get on the othe side of "La Ligna").

Last year we sailed The Ionian (March - mid October) only availing ourselves to marinas a few days. Be aware that you need a good supply of solar panels if you want to stay at anchor most of the time. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
You could do worse than try Caleta Del Salbo at La Gomera in the NW Canaries, just off Lanzarote. We stopped there a couple of months ago and paid 6 euros a night, free at the weekends! I dont know why it was free at the weekends but the customs/immigration/harbour master/maintennace man one man band show who runs it said that was the way it was.
There isnt any electricity or water on the pontoons but water is available from a hose that runs from the office wall to the side of marina, just a quick hop in the dingy or a stroll if you feel like carrying the water back.
There are a couple of supermarkets, a butcher who sells great steaks and friendly locals. There are a quite a few boats staying a few months or longer.
I wouldnt recommend the Cape Verdes just yet. We stopped in Mindelo in November and although pleasant enough I wouldnt want to be there for any real length of time. There are few stories about muggings and what have you coming out but we found it ok during the day and got back to the boat before it got dark.
The caribbean is ok, but proving a bit expensive. We tend to buy food at the supermarkets and stay at anchor to try and keep the costs down rather than going into marinas.
I would second the comment about the solar panels. Solar may not be all useful in the UK apart from the summer months but in sunnier climates its definately the way to go. We have 100 watts of solar panel but I wish I had at least double that!
cheers,
Ben
 
Excellent

Thanks for all your replies and links - that gives me lots to think about. La Gomera certainly sounds like a good option for winter, and there is enough cruising area if we want to give the cape verdes a miss.
We are just in the process of sorting out energy generation and are looking at at Rutland 916 + solar panels. My other half is sorting out the techie stuff, but I'll push for more than 100 watts.

Thanks again. I am sure I'll be asking more questions before we go /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
Its a few years since I was in La Gomera in the winter. I seem to remember two ports - one that the ferry comes into and one further south - I was in the further south one for a couple of week - pretty small town and not a lot to do - got a feeling it has a bit of a marina in there now... Got bored and decided to head up to the island Las Palma.. Broke the journey by stopping in the ferry port...

That night the wind came up with a vengeance.. I had two anchors out as the holding seemed soft.. In no time I was dragging and in the end decided to up anchor and get out... Not so easy in the darkness in a fairly crowded anchorage full of mooring buoys -- anyway got into the channel between the two islands and lay a hull in 9 -10 - big steel boat so no problem -- there was a power failure on both islands - all the lights out - very dark and I had to rely on GPS and radar to keep me clear of bumping into things. With dawn got into the southern harbour again and spent the next 5 or 6 days trying to look after my boat in horrid conditions... couple of other beat up yachts also struggled in... Several boats in Tenerife harbour dragged and went ashore during that time

Only telling the story to remind you the Canaries are not that benign a place always in winter.. Some of the holding in the harbours is not that good so if it really does blow up - getting out into open sea is sometimes the only option..

The marinas are fine I think -pretty well protected.

Michael
 
Others have spoken about the joys of the Med and the Caribbean, FWIW here's my perspective.

Regarding destinations, I'd say that it depends upon your outlook as to which destinations you'd like. The Canaries, Med and Caribbean have most of the facilities that you'd find in mainland Europe whereas the Cape Verdes and NE Brazil and surrounds are definitely areas where you have to be self sufficient and comfortable with what that means.

When we set off, we didn't have a predetermined view as to what were looking for and discovered that we are, much to our surprise, happiest in the wilder, less inhabited areas. So we loved the Verdes and Brazil, whilst I know that others find them a bit too far off the beaten track.
 
hi there, do many people live full time on their boats? are they retired people,,, im 31 and considering taking a year or two off to do some sailing round canaries/med..
 
Dont miss the med!

There are quite a few liveing on their boats,not sure for how long though?? Youll meet more locals,liveaboards tend to look at your boat then perhaps ask you aboard for a drink and to sniff at you before they move on!!The few longer term might ask if you have books to swap?

The med is really interesting,although the eec is trying to destroy it and wining!
But still In France you will find great matkets such as in Sete,Marseille,Toulon,Cannes,Menton those are the biggest and least expensive for fresh veg and flowers &perhaps fish.

Arrive at the tiny port of Bordighera on a sunday and be invited to a BBQ hear you enter Italy the land of really friendly wonderful people(except the ones driving RIBS jet skis or fast mobos!! Though even their great once safely in a port with engins off!!)

In Italy when you stay more than a day or two expect free fish(learn to salt it!)bottles of wine "from the grandparents grapes"dry tomatoes in olive oil both tomatoes and oil from the family!!

Vistit amazing "piratical"towns with names like Lerice finarly ligure receo varrazza and cinq terra (becareful if theres a swell you need to be 5 meters off the key at least) Ive never seen so many tourist and tourist shops as there arethere! Have to visit

Next Corsica arrive at macinaggio i can never understand why the people there are just soooo nice! They really welcome you and its not that expensive a really good place to begin with Corsica!Eat in the port of Bastia foods still ok but great to eat on a terrase not far from your boat!

Dont forget Capraia the small island? Then off around Corsica lots of bays to anchor on the south and west coasts then Elba again lots of bays and piratical villages such as rio marina when musalinis daughter has a cafe which sells the worst wine in Italy!!Unless your lucky!

So much head down to Rome Naples both have free moorings Naples has lots but lots of Rats as well!!!!They can swim!!!I dident know that.

Salerno is the port i use to explore Napels (good train service) and is one of the better places to come out if you need to antifoul large "city" but still sleepy and pleasent to wander about and drink coffee or fizzy wine!

Palermo great! There you will be served with a half liter glass of fizzy green wine and something from a grill in real intestines!!ummm but its great to eat after your second glass go back aboard before you fall asleep!! Then later explors the town its quite safe if yournot wearing gold rolex etc

So it goes on and on the med is a wealth of great places and people Italy and the islands is perhaps the best area, but then Corfus great and it just goes on! Expect to stay about 20 years in the med before getting to Greece Turkey----

The meds sadly with the eecs "euro" expensive but it dosent have to be.I manage and ive almost no money!Allyou will have to buy is milk tea flour oil spaggetti and wine, fruit and veg is free fish as well!!And a liter of two of petrol for the engine.

You will need about £100 to come in/out for antifouling then money for paint repairs perhaps about £400 for the winter 6 months?? Even thats an option!There are stillplaces in Elba for free but a bit very rough with the wrong wind at times!!!!

Dont miss the med.Dont eat Frey bentos there very expensive!!!
 
thanks for the info, it must be amazing, to have the freedom of the seas...
i have only started thinking about selling up and going off sailing but the fear of jumping off the cliff scares me. ie

leaving a good job ( no chance of a career break so only way is to resign)

the only way ill get the cash is to sell the house, which means i will be no longer on the property ladder, for what its worth..

also if have thought about different boats, ie beneteau clipper 323, read the review in a yacht magazine, which scuppers my thoughts on that boat,

my favourite so far is the southerly 110 115 but savage money...

any other recommendations on a boat would be appreciated,
i am kinda shying away from buying an old boat as more often than not , something major needs fixing....


i had thought of a first 27.7, but after thoughts on power, stowage, and other requirements, not to mention headroom , seemed to make it not a sensible choice for a boat..


it will be only me on her most of the time and single handed sailing, so a boat thats easy to handle is a must, and also one that can take the weather...

search goes on
 
Thanks for all the info Trouville

Also Oceanventure, we did exactly the same. We sold the house in 2005 and have been living aboard ever since. We also leave our jobs at the end of April. (I'm 33, husband is 37) We still have some of the house equity in a bank ready to invest in a new house when we stop cruising. We plan to cruise for 2-3 years (until our other savings run out).
To be honest, sometimes it is very scary, but it depends what you want out of life - it will obviously effect you pension savings etc. We thought it was worth the risk. The great thing about it is that once you have jumped off the cliff - everything seems more possible and the skys the limit.

One thing I would say though, is if you can avoid it, don't live aboard in the UK whilst you are still working - the last year has been hard - especially winters!
With regard to a boat, you won't really know what YOU like until you live aboard. We have an old 39ft steel ketch - its very seaworthy and has lots of space.
Cheers
Looly
 
[ QUOTE ]
thanks for the info, it must be amazing, to have the freedom of the seas...
i have only started thinking about selling up and going off sailing but the fear of jumping off the cliff scares me. ie



[/ QUOTE ]

I know how you feel. We too have been on that emotional roller coaster ride. The bottom line is do you want the experience or do you want the money? Whether you love being a liveaboard or hate it - you won't know till you have done it.

What is the worst that can happen if you hate it? Well you will have to get back into the rat race and on the property ladder again - which thousands of people have to do every year following redundancies, business failure, divorce or similar set backs. So it’s not really the end of the world is it?

We have just bought our boat and plan to start living aboard in 3 months time. Its getting exciting now as we are getting to the good bits - choosing and equipping the boat, planning our early itineries and soaking up the comments and experience of those already doing it. We are so close we can almost taste it!

In the early days of planning this someone on this forum said to me that the toughest bit was the road out of town i.e. severing the things that bind us to our current life.

….and it WAS tough selling the house that we had worked so hard and long for, moving into tiny rented accommodation, disposing of a houseful of belongings and working for a year knowing that we were going to jack it all in. Once I pack this job in I am fairly confident that I would not be able to get another one as well paid. In going now I will severely damage my pension and income in later life. So what - it has to be worth the risk!

There are always reasons not to go - kids, parents, money, risk, and so on. For us the spur that kicked us into action was losing some close friends who died very prematurely and unexpectedly in their late 40’s. It really drove home the fact none of us know how long we have got.

SWMBO and I are older than you – in our mid fifties – and it came as a bit of a shock to realise that we had almost left to late. Strength and physical fitness don’t last forever. We are going to go for it and frankly regret we didn’t decide sooner!
 
[ QUOTE ]

….and it WAS tough selling the house that we had worked so hard and long for, moving into tiny rented accommodation, disposing of a houseful of belongings and working for a year knowing that we were going to jack it all in. Once I pack this job in I am fairly confident that I would not be able to get another one as well paid. In going now I will severely damage my pension and income in later life. So what - it has to be worth the risk!
[ QUOTE ]


Spooky or what - we are currently in tiny rented accomodation and I am about to pluck up courage to tell my company that I'm off. Luckily I have a pension but SWMBO is now as keen as I am saying that if we don't try this we will never forgive ourselves.

We are going straight to the Caribbean the reason being that we don't want to sever all links with UK - kids etc. But the one place I don't want to be from October to April is the UK so we want somewhere were the seasons are effectively reversed. We did consider the Med, but as an ex matelot I am well aware how rough it can be in the winter months. I'm all for Easterly(ish)winds blue sea, blue sky 85-90 degrees etc etc and then come home for few months when the leaves are back on the trees - of course we may never actually come back..............
 
i see your points... i have been aboard a beneteau oceanis 323 at lunch time and it seemed a little small to be home for a year or longer, it was windy in the marina and the boat was bouncing a bit... im waiting to have a look at a oceanis 343 to see the difference in that boat, over the 323 size wise.

do i need the ICC cert to go into marinas in france / spain?

thanks for all the advice
 
We're going this year. Boat is bought, house will go up for sale in the spring. Leaving and not coming back - my wife is Canadian and we'll settle there. I'm 35 and we've decided that 2 years together as a family (kids 5 and 3) are worth more than any amount of income, pension etc so we're doing it now before formal schooling is unavoidable.

Yes, it's scary, yes, it might not work out as planned (almost certainly won't be exactly as planned) but one way or another we'll have a lot of time living aboard and end up in Canada. Ask me again in two years time....

nick
 
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