Windlass maintenance

[richardh10]

I have decided that its time to give my Lofrans Cayman windlass a little bit of love. I see they do a maintenance kit - at £80 - but its going to be difficult to get hold of one of those as I'm abroad for the forseeable.

So what bits am I likely to need as I will be able to get bearings etc individually. As an aside, I haven't done anything with it since installation about 5 years ago, and its used almost daily. So any tips will be well received.

 

[Neeves]

You may need nothing - so short term save your money. You should service annually - many are never serviced. They are amazingly robust. Theoretically you can service in situ but commonly the device is simply inaccessible and its easier if you remove and work on it in some comfort. Have the installation manual handy - as you will be reversing the order of instruction.

Most windlass are installed without any protection for dissimilar metals so be prepared for a struggle releasing any bolts that hold the windlass to the yacht. But when you re-assemble have some Duralac handy.

You need to check the oil in the gear box, clean and grease the shaft. These are the most common causes of issues with windlass.

If you are lucky you will need nothing else. Clean the windlass and check the terminals for any corrosion.

It is probably too late to 'save' the motor casing. The casings are commonly mild steel and really need to be protected from new (adding an extra coat of paint is a good start, even better something that resists the marine environment).

Jonathan

 

[sailaboutvic]

If you pull it apart you going to need new seals ,
I suggest you remove it then empty the oil and then refill with new oil .
Check for any bits in the oil , unless you have any reason to strip any further ie bearing,
then just do as Jonathan suggested above in posting #2 .
Do not reassemble without given the bolts /studs a good coating of Duralac,
Try and wash with fresh water offen .

 

[richardh10]

Thanks guys

 

[Bobc]

Change the carbon brushes while it's apart too. They are a common cause of problems as they wear.

 

[Neeves]

I note you use the windlass almost daily......?

I also know if you live aboard fresh water is a scarce commodity -if you wash the decks down when you have access to freshwater, marina, fuel dock, rain - take the opportunity to wash down the anchor locker (her rid of the salt on the surfaces and wash down the windlass (with the same fresh water). Nothing corrodes more quickly than mild steel when smothered in damp salt.

The rode left in your locker, that bit that you seldom use, is also covered in salt - look after it and it will not corrode into a solid lump. Fresh water, no fresh - rain will suffice, will do it good - as will airing the locker whenever you can.

Finally - make sure the drain holes are clear in the base of the locker - a puddle of salt water (or worse) will evaporate, condense on your windlass and chain ....

These are new yachts at boat shows - if the drainage holes block that easily.....??




Jonathan

 

[CJ13]

I looked at the service recommendations for my Cayman winch recently. I was (pleasantly) surprised that there’s no mention of changing the gearbox oil. There’s actually no way of doing this without removing the windlass and inverting it.

 

[sailaboutvic]

I looked at the service recommendations for my Cayman winch recently. I was (pleasantly) surprised that there’s no mention of changing the gearbox oil. There’s actually no way of doing this without removing the windlass and inverting it.

Yea your correct but by do so you not only changing the oil at the same time you an see it there any wear by what comes out , also which is as more important you can check the state of the bottom of the windlass ,
Were the bolts/stud goes can get eaten away .

 

[johnalison]

I have never given any attention to the motor of my 22yr old Lofrans winch but I was told that it is sealed for life. To be honest, it has only had light, though regular, use, and I don’t see it as being at risk of failure. The gypsy bits I dismantle most years and give them a clean and grease the appropriate part since there is a risk of salt corroding the clutch.

 

[Graham376]

My Kobra has lasted 19 years so far with no servicing but, it lives under the anchor locker lid so not exposed to elements most of the time.

 

[colind3782]

+1 to Duralac on the bolts. I had a mare of a time getting mine undone as it probably hadn’t moved in 30 years. Trying to use a breaker bar, upside down in an anchor locker, isn’t an activity I would recommend. The next time I change the oil, I plan to try a suction device rather than remove the whole windlass because it’s bloody heavy! If you do take the motor cover off, give the motor case some corrosion protection. I wiped mine over with ACF50 because that’s what I had available. I couldn’t find any Duralac in Empuriabrava so I used silicone grease temporarily until I find some.

 

[vyv_cox]

If you do take the motor cover off, give the motor case some corrosion protection. I wiped mine over with ACF50 because that’s what I had available. I couldn’t find any Duralac in Empuriabrava so I used silicone grease temporarily until I find some.

I painted the motor of my Maxwell windlass with Hammerite, with only limited success. Upon finding rust after not very long I wrapped it in Denso tape, a wonderful product for protecting steel from corrosion, albeit one of the nastiest to handle. To overcome that I wrapped the tape in polythene and Duck tape. This year I inspected the motor casing and found it in pristine condition after around 12 years of exposure to seawater