lustyd
Well-known member
Whether the maths is right or wrong, a longer lever doesn't give you more power.
Not in physics terminology, anyway. But then most people don't distinguish between, for instance, power and energy, or stress and strain...Whether the maths is right or wrong, a longer lever doesn't give you more power.
Agreed, a much better solution with less wear and tear. Especially since many boats don't have room to swing a longer handle through 360 degrees without at least barked knuckles...I sailed on a boat once which had one long winch handle in reserve for windy days. It was about 12 or 14" long and had been made by sawing a shorter handle in half and bolting the halves into the ends of a bit of SS tube. The skipper liked it but I found it awkward to swing. It seemed easier to me to luff a little to take the strain off the sheet, then winch in with a normal handle.
I have considered making a longer version myself but will probably end up upgrading the winches.
We had one of those as well. No locking mechanism so pretty useless for winching , but it made for a very smart and effective basher of lumps of ice . For the G&T of course.I shifted to a 10" very heavy Lewmar chromed handle and it's made a big difference for winding that last 6 ft of mainsail going up. I don't think it's psychological but even if it is I'm happy.
That would only be of use for small adjustments, the main reason why handles are the length they are is ergonomics. Us humans develop maximum power with a 16-20” diameter grind. Too big and you waste energy and force moving your whole body to chase the handle.I’m guessing the reason most winch handles are as they are is because winches are often located close to guardrails or cockpit coamings so the swept path of a longer handle might be too close to these obstructions to allow for comfortable use.
If space is no object it would be easy to mate a star-pattern driver to a torque wrench thereby allowing a greater swept path with the facility to set the torque so as not to strip the winch gears.
No, they are the way they are because it's a convenient length that is reasonably quick to use while providing sufficient leverage. The energy/power used to wind in a given length of rope doesn't change, so as long as the gearing and lever length allow most people to wind it it's good enough. Up to a certain point shorter is better than longer. On a wobbly boat stability is also useful so it's handy that the winch offers some resistance when you lean on it.I’m guessing the reason most winch handles are as they are is because winches are often located close to guardrails
A great idea for fractional rigs with big mains. But leaves masthead rigs with small mains that rely on the foresail a bit short of power.Why not get a self- tacker !
That may depend on the boat. My usual routine is to tension the sheet as best I can by hand while tacking, and then use the ratchet function to get the final tension. It is not often that I have to grind it through 360 degrees, consequently I use a long Lewmar handle for the jib sheets and a short one for the halyard winches on the coachroof.That would only be of use for small adjustments, the main reason why handles are the length they are is ergonomics. Us humans develop maximum power with a 16-20” diameter grind. Too big and you waste energy and force moving your whole body to chase the handle.
If you get the tack right on Chiara, there is no winching, you wrap the sheet on the winch before the tack, pull like crazy and bang it in the cleat, job done. We winch the last couple of metres of mainsail halyard, well, that’s 4 metres of rope as it’s a 2:1 halyard. You want full revolutions to accomplish that in any sensible time frame, plus some low gear tensioning.That may depend on the boat. My usual routine is to tension the sheet as best I can by hand while tacking, and then use the ratchet function to get the final tension. It is not often that I have to grind it through 360 degrees, consequently I use a long Lewmar handle for the jib sheets and a short one for the halyard winches on the coachroof.
As I say, all boats are different. I can get the main up to within a foot of the top or better, so a few turns on the winch suffices. The position of the halyard winch under the sprayhood doesn’t encourage vigorous winching, but the shorter handle can deal with it well enough.If you get the tack right on Chiara, there is no winching, you wrap the sheet on the winch before the tack, pull like crazy and bang it in the cleat, job done. We winch the last couple of metres of mainsail halyard, well, that’s 4 metres of rope as it’s a 2:1 halyard. You want full revolutions to accomplish that in any sensible time frame, plus some low gear tensioning.