Which wood to use?

Perplexed

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I want to install a chartplotter onto my cockpit bulkhead. Now ,that bit is the simple bit!!

The installation instructions say to cut a ( for me!) huge hole in the fibreglass ..... and I do not like cutting holes through my boat. Any hole is a possibilty/attraction for the pasage of water.

My thinking is to put a wooden "plate" behind the chart plotter, where the larger hole can be, and then I only need smaller holes in the bulkead to pass the cables through. A happier situation I think!

So, I am left with either using a solid "plate" 300mm wide x 170mm high, or making a wooden frame and installing the plotter on that - with the obvious problem of joints being open to the elements.

What would you advise? How to make it- frame or solid? Which wood to use? Or can you think of another way around it, such as stealing my wife's thick plastic chopping board, and getting her a new one?

And , before you ask the question....yes the chartplotter did come with a stand, but in my small cockpit it would be extremely vulnerable to being knocked - and that could end up being a very sad/expensive outcome. I really cannot use the frame, I need to screw the plotter to the bulkhead, and keep it tight in.

I look forward to hearing what you think. Many thanks. Perplexed
 
I think I would make the rectangular frame, in teak, and mitre the corner joints. Using epoxy as an adhesive.

It is not a strong joint on its own but, as the frame is to be screwed or bolted to the bulkhead, it doesn't need to be.
 
I have several huge holes in my boat, some let me and the crew in, others let light and air in others are even under the water, but they can all be sealed. This is the trick with your new chartplotter make sure the huge hole is well sealed.
 
I would make a hinged swing out bracket,as I don't like cutting holes in the boat and wouldn't want the chart plotter permanently outside,ruined by uv.
 
Teak, Iroko or Mahogany are the usual choices - but it probably doesn't matter for this application, as it's not load bearing. I'd avoid oak, as it discolours easily, but otherwise I don't suppose it matters as long as it's sealed carefully. I'd go look at your local hardwood supplier and see what they've got! I like the hinged bracket idea, too.
 
I think I would make the rectangular frame, in teak, and mitre the corner joints. Using epoxy as an adhesive.

It is not a strong joint on its own but, as the frame is to be screwed or bolted to the bulkhead, it doesn't need to be.
This would be my choice as well because you would have no exposed end grain which you would get with a solid piece of wood. Actual species not really important if you use a durable coating on the exposed bits. However, my first choice is to cut the hole as that way not only do you get the instrument as flush as possible, but all the vulnerable bits are inside the boat in the warm and dry. Just about to do the same job with 2 instrument heads and a chart plotter. No qualms at all about cutting the holes - just make sure you get them in the right place.
 
Does your cabin bulkhead lend itself to being lounged against? Lumpy instruments can ruin this. I'd mould up a box in GRP or have one made up from acrylic of an appropriate colour to match the cabin, but then I hate varnishing.
 
My Chart plotter is on a swing arm. It actually sticks further into the cockpit than photo shows as the arm is semi circular. It can be angled to be visible on either tack. It can be dismounted from the cradle but still connected to wires in the evening and sat on the table while new ideas are explored and courses plotted for the morning. When the boat is unattended it is inside and safe from weather and from view. Why would you want to bulkhead mount?


20210207_120410.jpg
 
I'm another for a swing arm while underway and it tucks neatly away once you are back on the mooring. I've also got one of those bendy arm mobile phone stand/clip things I use clamped on next to it for the phone/speakers etc also so I can use if needs be and any unforeseen activities/movements mean the phone drops into the cabin and not the big blue!!
 
My Chart plotter is on a swing arm. It actually sticks further into the cockpit than photo shows as the arm is semi circular. It can be angled to be visible on either tack. It can be dismounted from the cradle but still connected to wires in the evening and sat on the table while new ideas are explored and courses plotted for the morning. When the boat is unattended it is inside and safe from weather and from view. Why would you want to bulkhead mount?


View attachment 128924
OK if you have a wide companionway like yours, but not so practical for most boats. I have just removed the swinging arm on the boat I have bought because it makes access below impossible. There is no one solution - you choose the one that suits you, your boat and style of sailing. So bulkhead mounted for me.
 
Well, Thank you all for your thoughts and ideas. Such a welter of different appoaches....and to some degree I am still perplexed!! Sorry!!

I can understand all the arguments for cutting the bulkhead, but the hole will have to be 283mm wide by 165mm high. I know we have to have many holes through the hull as Sandy said - but they are absolutely necessary - whereas there is choice here. And what do I do if I want to change the chart plotter in years to come....it might not be the replaced by one the same size. Maybe not change the plotter, but change the boat!

My cabin/cocpit bulkhead is double skinned, with space up the middle - but I do not think the space is wide enough to take the depth of the plugs. The frame idea would allow a little more space for the plugs to sit between the two layers of the bulkhead.

John The Kiwi's idea of the swing arm is a really good one, and offers so many benefits. There would be a difficulty here because at both sides of my cockpit hatch there is a substantial vertical hand-rail, so I would need to mount the fixings for the swing arm onto a block to bring them out from the interior bulkhead to clear the hand rall.

The advices about the different types of wood have been really helpful.

So......where do I go? I am not sure yet, but something will come, and it seems as though given the many constraints, I will have to select the "least worst"!!:)

Oh Why is there never a straight forward answer when boats are involved????:):):):)

Once again,Thank you all again for your efforts. Your input is really much appreciated. Perplexed.
 
Well, Thank you all for your thoughts and ideas. Such a welter of different appoaches....and to some degree I am still perplexed!! Sorry!!

I can understand all the arguments for cutting the bulkhead, but the hole will have to be 283mm wide by 165mm high. I know we have to have many holes through the hull as Sandy said - but they are absolutely necessary - whereas there is choice here. And what do I do if I want to change the chart plotter in years to come....it might not be the replaced by one the same size. Maybe not change the plotter, but change the boat!

My cabin/cocpit bulkhead is double skinned, with space up the middle - but I do not think the space is wide enough to take the depth of the plugs. The frame idea would allow a little more space for the plugs to sit between the two layers of the bulkhead.

John The Kiwi's idea of the swing arm is a really good one, and offers so many benefits. There would be a difficulty here because at both sides of my cockpit hatch there is a substantial vertical hand-rail, so I would need to mount the fixings for the swing arm onto a block to bring them out from the interior bulkhead to clear the hand rall.

The advices about the different types of wood have been really helpful.

So......where do I go? I am not sure yet, but something will come, and it seems as though given the many constraints, I will have to select the "least worst"!!:)

Oh Why is there never a straight forward answer when boats are involved????:):):):)

Once again,Thank you all again for your efforts. Your input is really much appreciated. Perplexed.
This is the problem when you seek advice here! Too many different solutions.

Although most are well-meant and have their merits, you end up deciding for yourself.
 
Well, Thank you all for your thoughts and ideas. Such a welter of different appoaches....and to some degree I am still perplexed!! Sorry!!

I can understand all the arguments for cutting the bulkhead, but the hole will have to be 283mm wide by 165mm high. I know we have to have many holes through the hull as Sandy said - but they are absolutely necessary - whereas there is choice here. And what do I do if I want to change the chart plotter in years to come....it might not be the replaced by one the same size. Maybe not change the plotter, but change the boat!

My cabin/cocpit bulkhead is double skinned, with space up the middle - but I do not think the space is wide enough to take the depth of the plugs. The frame idea would allow a little more space for the plugs to sit between the two layers of the bulkhead.

John The Kiwi's idea of the swing arm is a really good one, and offers so many benefits. There would be a difficulty here because at both sides of my cockpit hatch there is a substantial vertical hand-rail, so I would need to mount the fixings for the swing arm onto a block to bring them out from the interior bulkhead to clear the hand rall.

The advices about the different types of wood have been really helpful.

So......where do I go? I am not sure yet, but something will come, and it seems as though given the many constraints, I will have to select the "least worst"!!:)

Oh Why is there never a straight forward answer when boats are involved????:):):):)

Once again,Thank you all again for your efforts. Your input is really much appreciated. Perplexed.



In my view you frequently regret making a hole in the topsides of a small boat or, if you escape it, the next owner does.

My plotter is above the companionway where it is reasonably protected by the sprayhood and easy to read in the dusk there. The flying leads comes via the void in the cabin and the edge of the sliding hatch. The plotter lives below when not in use.
However on some boats I appreciate this is a bit too busy an area and you may not have the space on a smaller boat.

.
 
Personally I would use layers of exterior ply to get the correct thickness, then cut the aperture. Then sand smooth and cover with epoxy resin and cloth, then fill and fair and paint with two-pack. Lightly sand to remove any brush marks then compound and polish. Time consuming but you will have a professional finish that will last for years.
 
Here is how I mounted my swing out depth sounder on a wood system.
I could be the same but would need to be beefier for a chartplotter.
gary
 
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