What is the best way to hold floor-boards in place?

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coopec

coopec

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I've yet to secure the floor boards in place. I know there are purpose made fasteners but they are far too expensive.
I'm thinking of using these - screw the female part into the floor bearer and then use countersunk bolt to secure the floor board. (I've got about X7 floor pieces and I'd use X2 bolts per board) Screenshot 2021-08-19 at 17-32-24 M4 m5 m6 m8 m10 Furniture pre embedded Insert nut,fastener w...pngScreenshot 2021-08-19 at 17-33-57 M8 x 1 25p Metric Coarse Stainless A2-70 G304 Countersunk He...png
 

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You clearly want them to be semi permanent (otherwise you would spend the money on something like those in post#2) so why not just use stainless selftappers for those you don't need to lift regularly and proper latches for any where you need regular quick and easy access. These are the ones I used force4.co.uk/item/Force-4/Flush-Latch-Ring-Catch/TER

No right, wrong or best way - just a range of alternatives to be chosen as you think appropriate.
 
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Ours came from the factory attached the way you propose in post #1, and works fine. Couple of small lifting panels over bilge sump and log impeller are inset into main boards

Kind of depends on whether going to stow wine, food cans etc below floorboards, or only need access once a year or so
 
If you notice an ingress of water you will need to be able to lift the sole boards quickly.
In my view, for the kind of coastal sailing that I do, unattached boards are fine.
Offshore sailing is more likely to bring lockdowns, but also the possibility of "hitting a cathedral", so consideration needs to be give to how quickly the boards can be lifted.
 
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Tranona said:
You clearly want them to be semi permanent (otherwise you would spend the money on something like those in post#2) so why not just use stainless selftappers for those you don't need to lift regularly and proper latches for any where you need regular quick and easy access. These are the ones I used force4.co.uk/item/Force-4/Flush-Latch-Ring-Catch/TER

No right, wrong or best way - just a range of alternatives to be chosen as you think appropriate.
Click to expand...

Yes, those latches look quite appropriate. I like the idea of an "in place latch" so in an emergency you are not looking around for a Phillips head screwdriver or an Allen key
 
Spirit (of Glenans) said:
If you notice an ingress ofwater you wil need to be able to lift the sole boards quickly.
In my view, for the kind of coastal sailing that I do, unattached boards are fine.
Offshore sailing is more likely to bring lockdowns, but also the possibility of "hitting a cathedral", so consideration needs to be give to how quickly the boards can be lifted.
Click to expand...

Absolutely! A chap I know lost his yacht because he couldn't work out where the water was gushing in.

Hopefully my yacht will be able to handle a knockdown as every cupboard/locker has over center latches. And every locker has a removable botton so I can get to the hull in an emergency.

Maybe I could make over center latches work? I could have small removable "hatch" in the floor to get access to the latch. I still have quite a number left over- I'll do a count in the morning.

Thanks



Screenshot 2021-08-19 at 19-24-14 AS-CS-1113 Stainless steel draw latch .png
 
coopec said:
I've yet to secure the floor boards in place. I know there are purpose made fasteners but they are far too expensive.
I'm thinking of using these - screw the female part into the floor bearer and then use countersunk bolt to secure the floor board. (I've got about X7 floor pieces and I'd use X2 bolts per board) View attachment 120945View attachment 120946
Click to expand...
I tried them but corrosion happened between differing material & the screws stuck slightly in the fitting & it just unscrewed itself. In the end it was a waste of time. Furthermore , a screwdriver is better for the holding down screw, as one has to find a ball end allen key where the fitting is against an obstruction. One cannot turn a normal allen key a full turn in that situation, thus taking ages to undo the screw.
 
My cabin boards are cut to be an interference fit with no screws or hold-downs ... They have small cut-outs so I can get hand in to lift ... the first part is tight and needs a good pull but once moving lifts easily. Makes it easy job if I ever have to get under ..

I've had all sorts of events .. broached to near mast level - but boards stayed in place.

The only 'board' I have that is screwed down is the cockpit sole because that sits on a raised area to create water gulley either side to the drains.
 
Boater Sam said:
Traditionally 2.5" floorboard nails with a lost head are used, oh, never on a boat though.

Have you considered neodymium magnets? they are incredibly strong and cheap.
Click to expand...
9mm th ply deck of the Stella class, built by Tucker Brown was always fixed with galvanised lost heads, as was a number of other timber components around the gunwhale etc. I spent some time pulling apart the rotten deck & surprisingly enough 50% of the nails still held fast. If it had not been for the canvass covering & then the ply failing the nails would have been OK. I used SS lost heads to fit the new deck, but glassed over the deck in 300 grm epoxy mat. Much quicker than screwing.

As for magnets - Not so sure I would like too many of those on a boat.

May i suggest that if they can be fitted in positions that one would not stub one's toes there is an alternative. Fit some vertical studs. These can be coarse thread screws ( such as those used on large rawl fixings etc) set into the GRP or wood bearers. Set vertically with the head removed & cut to a suitable length ( The non threaded part exposed) they can be suitably rounded. This forms a vertical stud & a hole needs to be drilled in the floor panel to drop over it. A 3mm hole drilled through at right angles & an R clip inserted over a washer placed over the stud will retain it. It can be released in an instant.
But they have to be placed where the big toes will not hit them for obvious reasons :eek:
 
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If you don't want to spend much, just screw them down with stainless screws. It's a once-in-a-lifetime (or less) chance that you'll ever suffer a hull leak other than at an existing seacock, etc, which should already be accessible. If you do have such a leak, it's likely to be the result of serious damage and unlikely that you'll be able to do much about it. In these circumstances, spending one or two minutes unscrewing a few screws in order to lift boards won't make much difference to the situation.
 
Dzus fasteners are the way to go. :DI think I like the first ones with a ring.
Two per floor board should locate them OK :unsure:
I know when I checked the price some time ago they were hideously expensive (I think I must have been looking for SS)

Screenshot 2021-08-20 at 06-25-12 dzus fasteners eBay.png
 
coopec said:
I've yet to secure the floor boards in place. I know there are purpose made fasteners but they are far too expensive.
I'm thinking of using these - screw the female part into the floor bearer and then use countersunk bolt to secure the floor board. (I've got about X7 floor pieces and I'd use X2 bolts per board) View attachment 120945View attachment 120946
Click to expand...
You can get stainless threaded inserts. I have used them. If you get the pilot hole right they will self-tap into wood with a bit of araldite.

Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
 
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