What age is my 1gm10 engine? Recommendation for Yanmar dealer and repair shop?

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niallw70

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How do I find out the age of my 1gm10, knowing only the engine number 09713. I don't see anything on the Yanmar website to help
On a side note, can anyone recommend a good Yanmar dealer/ repair shop for servicing and ordering spare parts? Hopefully with shop in Central Scotland?
 
The 1GM10 started in 1983 but whether they started at 00001 I have no idea.
For spares/repairs Ferry Marine (were Port Edgar, now Livingston) have their detractors, Swordfish at Holy Loch Marina have, in rumours but not my experience, a better reputation. Spares are most easily bought via the internet from Barrus or elsewhere, neither the above hold much stock, with delivery the next working day. Consumables like filters are cheaper from eBay, exhaust bend try searching this site for a much improved SS version.
 
When I had a 1GM10 the cheapest mail order place I found for genuine service parts was the chandlers in Douglas IoM. They sell through eBay. I also used French Marine, who were fine. For spares - I had to change my head - I bought the parts in the US and got a friend to bring them across. Yanmar parts are around half the price there, but Yanmar won't let dealers sell outside a narrow area, so we can't buy cheap bits direct.

By the way, the original Yanmar exhaust elbow is stainless, so there is no need to replace it because of the material. The pattern ones from www.exhaustelbow.com are excellent and much cheaper.
 
awol said:
The 1GM10 started in 1983 but whether they started at 00001 I have no idea.
For spares/repairs Ferry Marine (were Port Edgar, now Livingston) have their detractors, Swordfish at Holy Loch Marina have, in rumours but not my experience, a better reputation. Spares are most easily bought via the internet from Barrus or elsewhere, neither the above hold much stock, with delivery the next working day. Consumables like filters are cheaper from eBay, exhaust bend try searching this site for a much improved SS version.
Click to expand...
It's worth bearing in mind that service parts such as filters, impellers and belts aren't made by engine manufacturers, and that equivalent or even identical parts are usually available at much cheaper prices through the motor trade. I long since found out the equivalents for the Volvo 2003 (they're on here, somewhere), and I'm sure someone else has posted the equivalents for Yanmar engines. I also happen to be in the fortunate position of having a daughter in the trade, so I can get them at trade price!
 
Hi again, thankyou to all the contributors to my post, I was most surprised when I logged in just now. So I spent much of my day removing the cylinder head from my problematic 1gm10. I had two main reasons for doing this;
1. Check exhaust outlet not sooted up.... fine a little bit crustiness but nothing serious.
 
Hi again, thankyou to all the contributors to my post, I was most surprised when I logged in just now. So I spent much of my day removing the cylinder head from my problematic 1gm10. I had 3 main reasons for doing this;
1. Check exhaust outlet not sooted up.... fine a little bit crustiness but nothing serious.
2. Check the valve seats and cylinder bore for leaks/ soot/ anything else... all looked fine to my untrained eye.
3. Check pre-combustion chamber, i failed on this last one.

with a lot of cursing at the engine manual which does not elaborate on how to remove this precision engineered small circular component from the injector bore, I gave up. I did eventually get the heat shield out, so did sort of get to inspect the inside of the pre combustion chamber. Eventually if it ain't broke why fix mentality, I decided this was not the cause of my engine woes.
My main issue is very poor compression, I'm pinning my hopes that a new gasket for the rocker arm cover will give airtight seal to make negative pressure in crankcase on the compression stroke, this apparently helps the piston rings to seal against the bore during compression.

I had a look at the Toad marine website that coopec mentioned, nice website but I'm still none the wiser about the age, only that built anytime between 1983 and 2009! Not that it matters a great deal, but suppose I was looking into finding a reason to ditch Yanmar and go for a Beta marine engine which I've heard good stuff about!
 
niallw70 said:
2. Check the valve seats and cylinder bore for leaks/ soot/ anything else... all looked fine to my untrained eye.

My main issue is very poor compression, I'm pinning my hopes that a new gasket for the rocker arm cover will give airtight seal to make negative pressure in crankcase on the compression stroke, this apparently helps the piston rings to seal against the bore during compression.
Click to expand...
The hope that a new rocker-box gasket will improve compression is a forlorn one.
Poor compression is most likely due to ring / bore wear (or possibly gummed up rings) or poorly seated valves. Since you appear to have removed the valves to look at the seats, it could be worthwhile to now give them a light grinding-in.
 
Hi earlybird, thanks for the reply. I think that means taking the head to a good machining shop, I wouldn't have the presicion tools or expertise to tackle this.
Or howabout just giving the valves and valve seats a clean with fine emery cloth. If i tried to do this evenly all round the valve seat shoudn't damage seal?? (Yr thoughts)
A bit of history, i did have this engine professionally overhauled about 9 years ago, since then it went back in water once for one summer, engine ran fine, but following year non starting with compression problem. My only gauge of compression is manual cranking with handle while decompression lever off ie down position. Boats now been out the water 8 years now, basically havent had time until now (furloughed) to pay any attention to it! I'm loath to spend much more money on this engine when its had so little running time since last service. I know lying unused probably worst thing for an engine, but i have tried to hand crank regularly to keep some oil going round and topup with antifreeze for anticorrosive properties.
Sorry very wordy reply.
 
niallw70 said:
Hi earlybird, thanks for the reply. I think that means taking the head to a good machining shop, I wouldn't have the presicion tools or expertise to tackle this.
Or howabout just giving the valves and valve seats a clean with fine emery cloth. If i tried to do this evenly all round the valve seat shoudn't damage seal?? (Yr thoughts)
A bit of history, i did have this engine professionally overhauled about 9 years ago, since then it went back in water once for one summer, engine ran fine, but following year non starting with compression problem. My only gauge of compression is manual cranking with handle while decompression lever off ie down position. Boats now been out the water 8 years now, basically havent had time until now (furloughed) to pay any attention to it! I'm loath to spend much more money on this engine when its had so little running time since last service. I know lying unused probably worst thing for an engine, but i have tried to hand crank regularly to keep some oil going round and topup with antifreeze for anticorrosive properties.
Sorry very wordy reply.
Click to expand...
From memory going back to my teens (just after the asteroid that killed the dinosaurs), grinding valves is actually quite easy. You do it in-situ with the head off - dismantle the valve gear, and for each valve, use some valve-grinding paste and a sucker thing on a stick (both should be available from Halfords or whatever motoring shop you like ). Put paste lightly round the mating area of the valve, and then use the sucker thing to rotate the valve on its seat. Stop when the ground area is even round the valve and seat. Clean off the paste. Repeat for each valve.
 
Ebay has lots of head gaskets ranging from £24 to over £80 for ostensibly the same part. Good luck! Rocker box gasket is unlikely to solve your compression problem - I seem to remember a breather pipe to the inlet. Valve grind just needs a bit of carborundum paste - getting the springs off can be done with a couple of screwdrivers and, ideally, a helper to remove the collets but a spring compressor is designed for the job. A sucker is designed for the job but a hand drill on the valve stem alternated cw/ccw will do. As the engine has been idle for a long time stuck rings are possible - easiest cure is an "Italian tune-up" i.e. a high load, high speed run but you need to have faith to reassemble it. If you put paraffin (or diesel) in the bore, does it drain past the rings and how quickly?
 
awol said:
Ebay has lots of head gaskets ranging from £24 to over £80 for ostensibly the same part. Good luck! Rocker box gasket is unlikely to solve your compression problem - I seem to remember a breather pipe to the inlet. Valve grind just needs a bit of carborundum paste - getting the springs off can be done with a couple of screwdrivers and, ideally, a helper to remove the collets but a spring compressor is designed for the job. A sucker is designed for the job but a hand drill on the valve stem alternated cw/ccw will do. As the engine has been idle for a long time stuck rings are possible - easiest cure is an "Italian tune-up" i.e. a high load, high speed run but you need to have faith to reassemble it. If you put paraffin (or diesel) in the bore, does it drain past the rings and how quickly?
Click to expand...
as you say ,, but , for the uninitiated , a valve spring removal tool is required for refitting the valve collets , seating the valves with a drill is a bit dodgey , all very good if you are experienced.
 
I was looking into finding a reason to ditch Yanmar and go for a Beta marine engine which I've heard good stuff about!
DON'T

My main issue is very poor compression,
Engines in much worse condition than yours are being reconditioned everyday.
Do the job carefully and you will have a new, reliable engine.
Here is a video of a bloke doing it in situ with the minimum of tools.
He admits his lack of knowledge.
what this part? Rod? I don't know!
But will end up with a near new reliable engine for a fraction of the cost of a new replacement.
gary
 
garymalmgren said:
I was looking into finding a reason to ditch Yanmar and go for a Beta marine engine which I've heard good stuff about!
DON'T

My main issue is very poor compression,
Engines in much worse condition than yours are being reconditioned everyday.
Do the job carefully and you will have a new, reliable engine.
Here is a video of a bloke doing it in situ with the minimum of tools.
He admits his lack of knowledge.
what this part? Rod? I don't know!
But will end up with a near new reliable engine for a fraction of the cost of a new replacement.
gary
Click to expand...
watched that the other nite ,, looking forward to those valve collets going back in !!!! however , good on him ,,,,,, few bob in parts on that there table !!
 
earlybird said:
Poor compression is most likely due to ring / bore wear (or possibly gummed up rings) or poorly seated valves. Since you appear to have removed the valves to look at the seats, it could be worthwhile to now give them a light grinding-in.
Click to expand...
1GM10s are notorious for cracking by the valve seats. The machine shop chap I took mine to said he had never seen one without cracks. It's theoretically possible to insert seats, but I gather that in practice they are normally too corroded inside.

New heads are horrifyingly expensive - £704.68 from French Marine, £649 from the Douglas IoM chandler. When I bought mine from the US it was half the UK price.
awol said:
Ebay has lots of head gaskets ranging from £24 to over £80 for ostensibly the same part. Good luck!
Click to expand...
Some of the head gaskets available - including the genuine Yanmar one I bought from the US - don't have the word "TOP" on them as the Yanmar manual expects. Since they are almost but not quite symmetrical, it matters which way round they go, so it's worth noting which was round the original one was. Position of a small copper ring insert, iirc.
 
just checking the other day , parts are very expensive ,, water pump eg ,, 250 £ !!! used 2 nd hand 110£ !!! elbows etc !!!! ( glad mine are both good (y) )
 
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