Warn cabin sole boards

A couple of coats of 'Le Tonk' and you will be good to go.

I did a test section last winter and will be completing the whole floor over the winter. Brilliant stuff. The boat was built in 1986.
 
Did the black spots come out after you sanded? I think they are stone punctures (trapped in shoes) through the original finish and then water has penetrated
 
jaminb said:
Did the black spots come out after you sanded? I think they are stone punctures (trapped in shoes) through the original finish and then water has penetrated
Click to expand...
I'm no expert in varnish, but think that might be water getting under the varnish.

All I did was a light sand and apply Le Tonk and it came up like new. Ask me again in a year when I complete the sole. BTW strict rule on my boat, no land shoes on in the cabin.
 
I can't quite see the problem...

Seriously if you spend some time, a lot of time, rubbing back to bare wood (OK veneer) removing the old finish and then rebuild it with your choice of varnish or lacquer, it will look fantastic again, apart from the dents which give a bit of character.

The sole I have looked much worse than yours before I did this, but I didn't do such a thorough job where the finish was still OK, and wish I had. But it's not really noticeable underfoot.
 
Remove the varnish with chemical paint stripper rather than sand. Treat the spots first with diluted bleach which might shift the black or oxalid acid if they are more stubborn. Then light sand to get it all the same colour and coat with Ronseal floor varnish. Tough slightly matt finish non slip and very durable - better than conventional varnishes and much easier to apply to get a good finish.
 
Last edited:
Tranona said:
Remove the varnish with chemical paint stripper rather than sand. Treat the spots first with diluted bleach which might shift the black or oxalid acid if they are more stubborn. Then light sand to get it all the same colour and coar with Ronseal floor varnish. Tough slightly matt finish non slip and very durable - better than conventional varnishes and much easier to apply to get a good finish.
Click to expand...
Exactly what I have done in the past. Brought back floor panels far worse than the OP's ?.
 
Tranona said:
Remove the varnish with chemical paint stripper rather than sand. Treat the spots first with diluted bleach which might shift the black or oxalid acid if they are more stubborn. Then light sand to get it all the same colour and coat with Ronseal floor varnish. Tough slightly matt finish non slip and very durable - better than conventional varnishes and much easier to apply to get a good finish.
Click to expand...

I tried that last year. I couldn't get any paint stripper to have much effect. All the ones available to the public have been completely emasculated by the change in legislation in what we are allowed to use. In the end I stuck fake teak and holly veneer down from Robbins directly on top of the old surface, and it looks like new again. I used 3M double sided adhesive sheets which are strong and waterproof, but you only get one chance to put it down. The 8x4 sheet of fake veneer was about £250 and the adhesive £50. I bought some cheap vinyl flooring to make a template - about another£20 - because my floor is all one piece, not separate boards. The fake veneer is tough stuff to cut. I found new dressmakers scissors the best.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20210910_103030002.jpg
    IMG_20210910_103030002.jpg
    443 KB · Views: 76
  • IMG_20210910_103039386.jpg
    IMG_20210910_103039386.jpg
    430 KB · Views: 77
Last edited:
jaminb said:
Do you think there is any hope of refurbishing these to there former glory?

Looks like 3 mm of veneer ?

https://imgur.com/a/tKilfsh

Thanks
Click to expand...
With 3mm you stand a chance of getting rid of those black marks. Not a lot to loose in trying to sand off a mm to see what happens. I have the same marks and have noticed that in the summer the marks are a lot lighter in colour so my plan is to sand off 1mm at home and keep them indoors in the warm for a week before deciding to add new varnish. If the marks are still present my plan B is to bleach to get rid of the marks.

www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
 
AngusMcDoon said:
I tried that last year. I couldn't get any paint stripper to have much effect. All the ones available to the public have been completely emasculated by the change in legislation in what we are allowed to use. In the end I stuck fake teak and holly veneer down from Robbins directly on top of the old surface, and it looks like new again. I used 3M double sided adhesive sheets which are strong and waterproof, but you only get one chance to put it down. The 8x4 sheet of fake veneer was about £250 and the adhesive £50. I bought some cheap vinyl flooring to make a template - about another£20 - because my floor is all one piece, not separate boards. The fake veneer is tough stuff to cut. I found new dressmakers scissors the best.
Click to expand...
Have you tried Paint Panther? It works like Nitromors did before they neutered it.
 
Do we have a no-shoes rule in our car? You may even have a no-shoe rule in your house, but your house does not move. We do no-shoes some of the time, but if a person feels shoes are important to their safety, I would never say anything about it. I won't ask them to change into boat-only shoes because I don't. Many people require all workmen to board the boat in socks. I'll be damned if I'll slip-slide around in socks or kick cleats and step on sharp bits with bare feet.

A boat is a tool to get you places and to have adventures. If it gets some wear in the process...

"Some people try to turn back their odometers. Not me, I want people to know “why” I look this way. I’ve traveled a long way and some of the roads weren’t paved." Will Rogers

I think the OP's floor looks fine, nothing a little sanding and varnish won't put right. But I wouldn't try to get deep marks out. You can damage the wood, and it's just "character."
 
Concerto your boards came up amazingly. I assume they are veneer? If so how thick? Did you feel the dents?

No external shoes down below will be the new rule if I can get the boards anything back to Concerto’s level of finish
 
thinwater said:
Do we have a no-shoes rule in our car? You may even have a no-shoe rule in your house, but your house does not move. We do no-shoes some of the time, but if a person feels shoes are important to their safety, I would never say anything about it. I won't ask them to change into boat-only shoes because I don't. Many people require all workmen to board the boat in socks. I'll be damned if I'll slip-slide around in socks or kick cleats and step on sharp bits with bare feet.

A boat is a tool to get you places and to have adventures. If it gets some wear in the process...

"Some people try to turn back their odometers. Not me, I want people to know “why” I look this way. I’ve traveled a long way and some of the roads weren’t paved." Will Rogers

I think the OP's floor looks fine, nothing a little sanding and varnish won't put right. But I wouldn't try to get deep marks out. You can damage the wood, and it's just "character."
Click to expand...
I sort of agree with this.
I'd give it light sand and some 'diamond hard' satin varnish.
A pristine cabin sole can look quite naff in an old boat.
Why is everyone stuck with the striped teak/holly Ikea look?
 
jaminb said:
Concerto your boards came up amazingly. I assume they are veneer? If so how thick? Did you feel the dents?

No external shoes down below will be the new rule if I can get the boards anything back to Concerto’s level of finish
Click to expand...
The veneer was probably 2mm, I hardly touched the veneer the way I prepared them. Yes I did feel the dents, but did not fill them. An old trick to reduce the dent is to prick the dent multiple times with a fine needle and then add some drops of water. This will swell the dent to close to original, so will be less apparent and leave to dry overnight. The varnish fills the miniscule needle holes.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Other threads that may be of interest

johnphilip
Self tappers spinning in fibreglass hollow sections
2
Replies
32
Views
711
mikegunn
M
C
Being offered a free Mystere 26
Replies
17
Views
713
Concerto
Concerto
Halo
Cuuting a 115mm hole for Wema tank hatch
Replies
9
Views
368
pete
pete

Share this page

Top