VP TMD41a oil cooler leak

snowbird30ds said:
Hi All
I have a raw water leak around the front of one of my oil coolers between the cooler housing and the end cap, I can see how the back comes apart from the parts list but not how to deal with the front cap, any ideas?
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There is no front cap and what you have is the old version , I'm afraid that is scrap , I've just done same job for a client, new cooler I'm afraid, comes as a kit as new style cooler isn't quite the same .
 
snowbird30ds said:
Go on Paul frighten me with a cooler price....
Thanks for the info.

So is what looks like a front cap part of the tubestack itself and does it all draw out through the rear cover Paul? Any idea what material it's made of?
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It pushes out the rear but the tubestsck ends up corroded in the alloy housing .
As the cooler is under constant oil pressure I wouldn't try a repair .
Try a dealer for a price .
 
Why on earth VP use shitmetal alloy with seawater amazes me. If it is the gearbox cooler changing to a Bowman is straightforward and massively cheaper. But as this looks like it is the on-engine cooler standby to bend over and have something expensive extracted.

When my gearbox oil cooler leaked on my TAMD60C VP wanted £1,600 for a new cooler. I bought two Bowman with all necessary fittings for ~ £200.
 
superheat6k said:
When my gearbox oil cooler leaked on my TAMD60C VP wanted £1,600 for a new cooler. I bought two Bowman with all necessary fittings for ~ £200.
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Lancing Marine ?
They have a reputation second to none for producing sensibly priced after market solutions to some common problems which help older diesels soldier on for a few more decades.
In addition have always found them a friendly and involved bunch of enthusiasts .
 
I sold a spare one to a friend a couple of years ago that I had bought as a replacement but did not need it.
I also had one that leaked and had this repaired corroded metal ground away and built back up with tig welding, Remachined and oversized O rings installed £40 from memory mind you yhat was 15 years ago and still in use now.
Letme know if you are intersted in the one friend had and I will contact to see if he still has it
 
Thanks Plum that's pretty much how I thought it might come apart, I'll probably cover the holes and gently bead-blast around the end cap where the salt build up is to remove any corrosion and soak with duck oil for a while before giving the ali housing a bit of gentle heat to make it come out easier then see about soldering it.
I should be able to pressure test the oil side once done to make sure no oil and water mixes, a minor drip outside isn't that drastic as it's probably been doing it for a couple of years anyway.
Thanks everyone for the input, I guess these things must be hand crafted from a mermaids ovaries going by the prices.
 
superheat6k said:
Why on earth VP use shitmetal alloy .
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Hang on a mo .....surely everyone is aware that all boaters replace the method of propulsion in their boats every few years as matter of course.Hence no need to worry about the 2nd owner let alone the sixth and tenth.
Why else are they virtually impossible to service without articulated arms and installed in locations making it difficult without eyes on stalks to see any vital bits. ?
 
oldgit said:
Hang on a mo .....surely everyone is aware that all boaters replace the method of propulsion in their boats every few years as matter of course.Hence no need to worry about the 2nd owner let alone the sixth and tenth.
Why else are they virtually impossible to service without articulated arms and installed in locations making it difficult without eyes on stalks to see any vital bits. ?
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If you get a leak then fix it before it causes further damage, don’t leave it, if repaired in time the casting would still be serviceable, you can’t blame VP if the boat builders don’t leave enough room to work on engine
 
I did wonder if I was going to get it to move without destroying the core, a weekend soak in duck oil and plenty of heat got it moving with the help of a band of steel strip in the groove and a press.
The housing will be fine with a good clean out of the o-ring grooves and a couple of fresh rings, I can knock up a pressure tester for the oil side easy enough, it looks as though it's been leaking where the cap is joined on.
Gotta hide it away for the rest of the week now as we have an audit going on at work, once they sod off I'll be back at it.
 
Boat2016 said:
If you get a leak then fix it before it causes further damage, don’t leave it, if repaired in time the casting would still be serviceable, you can’t blame VP if the boat builders don’t leave enough room to work on engine
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So basically its fault of the customer for being far more interested in
A. The size of the decals announcing the hull length
B.The shape of the saloon windows,
C How cool is the Nav system
D. The interior furnishings
Than the mysterious world under the floor boards.
Perhaps we get exactly what we desire from the current crop of boat builders. ?
It appears that access has got steadily worse as interior designers have eclipsed engineers, shaft drive boats being the biggest losers.
 
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snowbird30ds said:
Tubestack soldered and housing cleaned with new o-rings, oil side air pressure tested to 95psi no problems, water side air pressure tested to 30psi no problems, no leaks so re-paint tomorrow and refit.
Cost so far £0.00, I like that price.
Thats a few beers worth saved. :)
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Nice one, and thanks for the feedback.
 
Difficult one to call sometimes, get new one and fix it fast or pull it to bits at leisure and at least see if the situation is as bad as it looks, it normally is. :).
For some poverty stricken tightwads , like me, the decision is a lot easier.
It also helps if you have a good working knowledge of the local metal bashing outfits who can solder/alloy weld/ braise/ knock out a bit of lathe work in the lunch hour or repair the odd hydraulic ram with their eyes shut,.
Unfortunately most areas no longer boast such skills locally.
An outfit that can work magic with bent props right on your doorstep is neat as well.
 
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oldgit said:
Difficult one to call sometimes, get new one and fix it fast or pull it to bits at leisure and at least see if the situation is as bad as it looks, it normally is. :).
For some poverty stricken tightwads , like me, the decision is a lot easier.
It also helps if you have a good working knowledge of the local metal bashing outfits who can solder/alloy weld/ braise/ knock out a bit of lathe work in the lunch hour or repair the odd hydraulic ram with their eyes shut,.
Unfortunately most areas no longer boast such skills locally.
An outfit that can work magic with bent props right on your doorstep is neat as well.
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We repaired our oil cooler a couple of months ago. Helps to have a boat partner who owns an engineering business!
 
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