VP anti-freeze

Only if OAT is recommended for your engine and if it is already using OAT.

Generally the two types should not be mixed although there are antifreezezs on the market which it is claimed can be mixed with either type.

Maybe a thorough flush will be sufficient if you want to change
That is bad advice, to say the least. Do Not use OAT in these engines.
but be aware that Volvo Penta recommend, or at least did recommend, a chemical clean. An expensive procedure if carried out by a VP agent.

Volvo recommendations are irrelevant here, the question asked related to Ford Sabre engines.
 
I freely admit that I don't know what antifreeze that you need for VP engines, however a word of caution is offered.
On a John Deere tractor,who recommend using their own AF which has specific anti corrosion additive. I strayed from this and the wet liners corroded thus resulting in an engine rebuild. Water and oil do mix.
 
I freely admit that I don't know what antifreeze that you need for VP engines, however a word of caution is offered.
On a John Deere tractor,who recommend using their own AF which has specific anti corrosion additive. I strayed from this and the wet liners corroded thus resulting in an engine rebuild. Water and oil do mix.
I dont know if this applies to your John Deere tractor but OAT coolant is specified for some / many higher performance diesel engines to prevent cavitation erosion of the cylinder liners.
 
Brands and their specs !! I love 'em ....

Some years ago - I bought a reasonable respected brand of gasoline powered Strimmer or Weed Whacker as our US cousins sometimes call them.

Within a few months - a coupling sheered and I took it back under warranty.....

Days passed and nothing heard - so I called them .... "hows about that strimmer ?"

Rejected Warranty claim ... you can collect as is or pay us to do repair.

WHAT ?????? I'm straight in car and drive to see what is going on.

Service guy has rejected Warranty because I did not use the Brand of 2t oil in the manual. Note BRAND - not quality or specification... actual BRAND NAME.
I laughed - it was so stupid !! He based the decision on the colour of the Petroil mix being different to when Brand X 2t is used.

I asked him to produce the Brand X 2t oil - as I could only see 'other usual' brands on his shelf. He found ONE part bottle ... put on counter. I asked him to wait a minute or so .... I walked across the road to the Gasoline Station ... found the 2t I was looking for ... bought the bottle and walked back.
Put the two bottles side by side and told him to read the Specification labels with all the data ... IDENTICAL rating.
Of course - still not accepted .... still refusing to repair the item - EVEN THOUGH he admitted that the part broken had ZERO to do with 2t oil used !!

I tried but he would not budge ... so I picked up the gear - put in car and gave it to my mate who runs the local Husqvarna dealers ... he fixed it for a few euros instead of the much larger bill other guy tried to stiff me with !!
 
What are the reasons, ( technical) why OAT must not be used in these engines ?
There are, or could be, parts in the installation that are affected by OAT, which is why it's not recommended for older engines.
The same will apply to any make of engine
VP dream up their own recommendations, i most certainly would not apply them to any and all other makes.
 
I dont know if this applies to your John Deere tractor but OAT coolant is specified for some / many higher performance diesel engines to prevent cavitation erosion of the cylinder liners.
It's hardly high performance. Three cylinders of Manheim's best agricultural engineering. This was rusted through.
 
It's hardly high performance. Three cylinders of Manheim's best agricultural engineering. This was rusted through.
Not higher performance in the sense you assume.

Diesel engines with wet sleeve liners, in applications with high loading, are prone to cavitation pitting of the sleeve. That diesel "clatter" we all know, causes a ringing of the liner. It can be controlled EITHER with OAT coolants with high OAT concentrations, NOAT coolants, which include nitrate, or conventional coolants with molybdate and nitrite added. These formulation differences are what make it a heavy duty, high performance coolant. I've run these tests--pretty amazing to see the difference minor formulation changes make.

It was discovered, almost by accident, that OATs based on 2-ethylhexanoic acid gave good anti-cavitation pitting performance.

What to use? What did the OEM suggest? In fact, many engine manufactures give the buyer several choices, with NOAT and conventional options. What did the last owner use? Hard to tell, but if you can make a good guess, and it is not 100% wrong, it's generally safer to stay with it, for reasons that go beyond sludge formation (the protection mechanism is very different and they can compete). If it was conventional, just make sure you use an HD conventional with nitrite and moly.

And follow the change recommendation, which is normally every year, because of the risk of salt contamination (which is FAR worse than anything the wrong coolant can do).

Liner-Cavitation.jpg
 
Not higher performance in the sense you assume.

Diesel engines with wet sleeve liners, in applications with high loading, are prone to cavitation pitting of the sleeve. That diesel "clatter" we all know, causes a ringing of the liner. It can be controlled EITHER with OAT coolants with high OAT concentrations, NOAT coolants, which include nitrate, or conventional coolants with molybdate and nitrite added. These formulation differences are what make it a heavy duty, high performance coolant. I've run these tests--pretty amazing to see the difference minor formulation changes make.

It was discovered, almost by accident, that OATs based on 2-ethylhexanoic acid gave good anti-cavitation pitting performance.

What to use? What did the OEM suggest? In fact, many engine manufactures give the buyer several choices, with NOAT and conventional options. What did the last owner use? Hard to tell, but if you can make a good guess, and it is not 100% wrong, it's generally safer to stay with it, for reasons that go beyond sludge formation (the protection mechanism is very different and they can compete). If it was conventional, just make sure you use an HD conventional with nitrite and moly.

And follow the change recommendation, which is normally every year, because of the risk of salt contamination (which is FAR worse than anything the wrong coolant can do).

Liner-Cavitation.jpg
Thank you, very educational.
 
I have always used Prestone, green stuff in any car van bus boat that I have owned...they say it can go in any engine, never had any problems...I have seen old blue stuff turn to sludge in my Volvo engine shortly after I had bought it...

That Prestone in large containers is surprisingly cheap in the motor factors...
 
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