VP 2002 secondary filter "manifold" problem

[GPS2]

Hi and I hope that someone on the forum might be able to help me identify and solve a problem.

On my Sadler 29 I have the original VP 2002 engine which has been a very reliable workhorse. When doing my checks at the weekend, innoticed a slight fuel leak coming from the top of the secondary fuel filter manifold ( I can't think of the correct term so have attached photo). This small weap of fuel was coming from the separate "bleed screw" to the front top face of the manifold so I tightened it a little, then a bit more and it still weaped - so I tighten a bit more and it loosened off completely with no bite. A small weap then became a steady flow into the bilge so I had to quickly drain the fuel inlet and and disconnect the return fuel pipe.

My question is, what is this screw (attached photo) and what does it do.? The VP manuals indicated the bleedd point to be on top of the manifold where the metal fuel pipe joins, the expanded Volvo diagrams don't seem to identify this separate screw as a part numbervand my initial attempts to identify a replacement suggest it might be an air screw. I hope the pictures publish and hope that forumites might have been here before me and solved the problem I'm facing.

Thank you in advance

 

[eddystone]

My Volvo manual shows that as the bleed screw which is clearly wrong as the correct bleed point is the pipe junction, as you say.

 

[RichardS]

View attachment 60521View attachment 60522

Hi and I hope that someone on the forum might be able to help me identify and solve a problem.

On my Sadler 29 I have the original VP 2002 engine which has been a very reliable workhorse. When doing my checks at the weekend, innoticed a slight fuel leak coming from the top of the secondary fuel filter manifold ( I can't think of the correct term so have attached photo). This small weap of fuel was coming from the separate "bleed screw" to the front top face of the manifold so I tightened it a little, then a bit more and it still weaped - so I tighten a bit more and it loosened off completely with no bite. A small weap then became a steady flow into the bilge so I had to quickly drain the fuel inlet and and disconnect the return fuel pipe.

My question is, what is this screw (attached photo) and what does it do.? The VP manuals indicated the bleedd point to be on top of the manifold where the metal fuel pipe joins, the expanded Volvo diagrams don't seem to identify this separate screw as a part numbervand my initial attempts to identify a replacement suggest it might be an air screw. I hope the pictures publish and hope that forumites might have been here before me and solved the problem I'm facing.

Thank you in advance

I suspect that it is an air bleed screw as it is right at the top of the filter and it has an air slot but, as it's not quite as high as the banjo bolt it's probably been found that the higher bleed point is more successful. It might also be a tapping for a pressure gauge but whatever, it sounds as if the thread in the filter is now stripped. The problem was probably that the washer needed annealing/replacing but that's no help now.

Your alternatives are to re-tap the thread to a larger size and source a new bolt. This will need the cap removal. You could alternatively buy a helicoil insert and retain the original bolt. This might not need cap removal although probably best to remove. The bodger in me would also consider the third option which is cleaning the old thread carefully with meths/white spirit and epoxying in the old bolt - Aradite or similar. If I was sure that I was never going to need to use the tapping I would probably use the epoxy as I could do that it situ in 10 minutes and never have to worry about it again.

Richard

 

[Freebee]

The technical term is probably a filter head casting, I think its a bleed screw and it sounds like you have stripped the thread, rather than bodge it I think you should try and obtain another casting. If you attempt some kind of bodge it will probably fail and allow fuel out or air in!!!

 

[RichardS]

The technical term is probably a filter head casting, I think its a bleed screw and it sounds like you have stripped the thread, rather than bodge it I think you should try and obtain another casting. If you attempt some kind of bodge it will probably fail and allow fuel out or air in!!!

Crikey Freebee ..... replace the entire casting because of a stripped thread that's not even used? That's unholy talk in a Practical Boat Owner thread!

Richard

 

[Steve_N]

A slight alternative to Richard's epoxy idea; spin the filter off and have a look at the underside of head - with luck you may be able to put a drill through the stripped hole and seal it with a nut and bolt and washers.

 

[VicS]

View attachment 60521View attachment 60522

Hi and I hope that someone on the forum might be able to help me identify and solve a problem.



My question is, what is this screw (attached photo) and what does it do.? The VP manuals indicated the bleedd point to be on top of the manifold where the metal fuel pipe joins,

Well it is the bleed screw, no doubt about that even if your manual shows in in a slightly different position, The manual I am looking at shows in it the same position as in the photo ( see below)

If you Araldite it in you will not be able to bleed the system other than by slackening the banjo bolt on one of the fuel connections. This may not be ideal.

(FWIW If I where considering "Aralditing" in I would use a metal filled epoxy such as JB Weld http://www.halfords.com/motoring/pa...ives/j-b-weld-original-steel-reinforced-epoxy )

Helicoiling, if possible, would be decent engineering solution, as opposed to a bodge with some epoxy, and should, with care, retain functionality of the bleed screw.

( A new filter assembly is going to cost about £150 )

 

[bigwow]

Have it helicoiled

 

[AntarcticPilot]

Crikey Freebee ..... replace the entire casting because of a stripped thread that's not even used? That's unholy talk in a Practical Boat Owner thread!

Richard

Actually, I use it for its official purpose as a bleed screw. While using the fuel pipe union might be technically "better", the bleed screw is a) convenient and b) works! It is also my experience that fuel pipe unions on the Volvo 2000 series tend to be a devil to make leak proof after they've been loosened. As I've had rather a lot of diesel in my bilges, I avoid undoing fuel pipe unions like the plague.

 

[VicS]

A better bodge perhaps

Find a screw with the same thread as the bleed screw

Drain and remove the filter, Clean and degrease to remove all possible traces of diesel. Clean the remains of the threads in the hole again. It is vital that no traces of oil remain!

Clean the screw but leave the thinnest possible trace of oil on the thread.

Now set this screw in the top of the filter housing using a metal filled epoxy. Warm it if necessary to be sure it flows.
Allow this to set.

When fully cured carefully remove the screw and you should find a perfectly formed threaded hole in the filter housing.

Clean up any surplus epoxy, especially from the joint face .

Refit the original bleed screw with a fibre washer. If necessary run a tap into the hole very gently to ease the thread a little .

 

[GPS2]

Many thanks to all the helpful replies and advice so far, I am pleased that many have help identify VP manual inconsistencies through the years - one sometimes sits there thinking "is it me?" It looked like a bleed screw to me, but my VP manual diagram has the banjo fixing with the spurts of fuel drawn next to the spanner picture as the bleed point!
I cant get down to the boat till Saturday morning so thank you for all the helpful possible options so far and all additional thoughts very welcome. It will be good to have a definite clear plan of attack/defense.

 

[Juggler7823]

Does the bleed screw have an o ring or seal? Is it lost or in good condition?

 

[RichardS]

Does the bleed screw have an o ring or seal? Is it lost or in good condition?

Errrrr ..... see photo?

Richard

 

[philwebb]

Why not get another bolt one size up (Allen key head?) and tap out the hole one size up. File a flat bit on the bolt thread 6 or 7mm down from the top for the air bleed. Use an aluminium or copper washer for sealing. A helicoil is good solution but you might find that the top of the filter housing is not very thick.

 

[GPS2]

A better bodge perhaps

Find a screw with the same thread as the bleed screw

Drain and remove the filter, Clean and degrease to remove all possible traces of diesel. Clean the remains of the threads in the hole again. It is vital that no traces of oil remain!

Clean the screw but leave the thinnest possible trace of oil on the thread.

Now set this screw in the top of the filter housing using a metal filled epoxy. Warm it if necessary to be sure it flows.
Allow this to set.

When fully cured carefully remove the screw and you should find a perfectly formed threaded hole in the filter housing.

Clean up any surplus epoxy, especially from the joint face .

Refit the original bleed screw with a fibre washer. If necessary run a tap into the hole very gently to ease the thread a little .

Many thanks VicS and everyone else- this option looks to be favourite first (and hopefully last) repair and the additional advice re warming and cleaning are most helpful. I have ordered the metal filled epoxy, again thank you for providing the link and suggesting this. I am so much further forward than I would be on my own - what a great bunch of friendly help. I hope the expoxy arrives quickly as it is a delivery only item from Halfords- I will let you know how I get on and thanks to all once again