Volvo Penta smoke/steam problems

Doryjohn

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I was having white smoke/steam problems with Volvo Penta TAMD41. I spent over £3000 with the experts trying to solve the problem - injectors and high pressure fuel pump serviced and a brand new water pump at £750 plus all the usual system checks and cleaning etc etc.

I eventually identified the problem. A small split in the sea water filter allowed air to be sucked into the cooling system. This reduced the amount of sea cooling water but was just enough to keep the engine at the correct temperature. However, the reduced sea water was much hotter than it should have been and when it mixed with the hot exhaust it turned to steam. The faster the boat went the more steam. All fixed with a new filter box for £100.

So if you have smokey steam check your water flow first!
 
I was having white smoke/steam problems with Volvo Penta TAMD41. I spent over £3000 with the experts trying to solve the problem - injectors and high pressure fuel pump serviced and a brand new water pump at £750 plus all the usual system checks and cleaning etc etc.

I eventually identified the problem. A small split in the sea water filter allowed air to be sucked into the cooling system. This reduced the amount of sea cooling water but was just enough to keep the engine at the correct temperature. However, the reduced sea water was much hotter than it should have been and when it mixed with the hot exhaust it turned to steam. The faster the boat went the more steam. All fixed with a new filter box for £100.

So if you have smokey steam check your water flow first!
Did the water start pumping straight away at tickover? Thanks for the post, something I'll ivestigate when next down
 
I’m always shocked in most industries at the absence of diagnostic skills.
Should be built into our educational system.
I‘m pleased that you are eventually sorted.
Unfortunately these days everyone uses a laptop to diagnose faults , if it cannot be found via that it doesn’t get fixed .
The older generation engineers me included learned the hard way , sadly this isn’t being passed down the learning chain .
 
Unfortunately these days everyone uses a laptop to diagnose faults , if it cannot be found via that it doesn’t get fixed .
The older generation engineers me included learned the hard way , sadly this isn’t being passed down the learning chain .
I had this with the ETEC I had on my last boat. Guy plugged the computer in and 5 minutes later told me there wasn’t a problem, computer said “no”. So stalling at tickover was a design feature then……
 
I was having white smoke/steam problems with Volvo Penta TAMD41. I spent over £3000 with the experts trying to solve the problem - injectors and high pressure fuel pump serviced and a brand new water pump at £750 plus all the usual system checks and cleaning etc etc.

I eventually identified the problem. A small split in the sea water filter allowed air to be sucked into the cooling system. This reduced the amount of sea cooling water but was just enough to keep the engine at the correct temperature. However, the reduced sea water was much hotter than it should have been and when it mixed with the hot exhaust it turned to steam. The faster the boat went the more steam. All fixed with a new filter box for £100.

So if you have smokey steam check your water flow first!
How exactly did you find the problem? Did you realise what is was before you fixed it or afterwards?
Fault tracing seems to need clear, logical thought. It seems to elude me!
 
How exactly did you find the problem? Did you realise what is was before you fixed it or afterwards?
Fault tracing seems to need clear, logical thought. It seems to elude me!
I thought the same but then thought of this;
If you turn the seacock off whilst the engine is running then switch off the engine asap, should the sea strainer renain full if there's no leaks?
 
This is good input and I am still trying to get my steam problem sorted on a KAMD300. Thinking about this thread I looked at the hoses from the hull intake and I could see there was a "strain" of air included while on the plane. I wonder how sensitive the system is to a bit of air and if it's actually to be expected while on the plane as there would be some air turbulence under the hull.
 
Hi all. Unfortunately I discovered the fault in the filter after the new pump was fitted so now I have a perfectly good spare pump thats available if anyone wants one. First noticed that the water was not flowing quite as strongly as it should hence the pump suspected. Later noticed a drip in the bottom of the filter bowl on a moulding point then as the engine increased in revs you could see air bubbles in the clear tube from the filter to the engine. The more revs the more air sucked in, therefore less water to cool.

Took the boat for a test after fitting new filter and hey presto no steam!!!. Now there is no steam at all until flat out at 3400 revs or so when there is a bit which can be expected but at least a 90% decrease.
 
If those experts prompted the OP to.....

I spent over £3000 with the experts trying to solve the problem - injectors and high pressure fuel pump serviced and a brand new water pump at £750 plus all the usual system checks and cleaning etc etc.

I would be hopping mad and seeking recourse. I really dont mind spending money for time to solve a problem and if the engineers time is 20 hours then he is due 20 hours. But if it's 20 hours plus misdiagnosed parts and activities then I'd be asking for a refund unless they can be demonstrably showed to be a contributing factor.
This is why I do my own engines and stuff. When I cock up I frikken own it (as you all probably know) and do not pass it on. Why use a professional otherwise? I want a pro not a fitter
 
Hi all. Unfortunately I discovered the fault in the filter after the new pump was fitted so now I have a perfectly good spare pump thats available if anyone wants one. First noticed that the water was not flowing quite as strongly as it should hence the pump suspected. Later noticed a drip in the bottom of the filter bowl on a moulding point then as the engine increased in revs you could see air bubbles in the clear tube from the filter to the engine. The more revs the more air sucked in, therefore less water to cool.

Took the boat for a test after fitting new filter and hey presto no steam!!!. Now there is no steam at all until flat out at 3400 revs or so when there is a bit which can be expected but at least a 90% decrease.

Hi , really helpful stuff thanks for sharing. Can I ask which strainers you used for £100 and do they have a clear top? I looked at Vetus 38mm pipe ones (but looked much smaller volume than the original year 2003 ones Volvo fitted to my KAMD300 ( in a Prestige 32) so have not done this yet. New type clear top high capacity Volvo strainers are £210 plus two £30 pipe adapters ( as they are 50mm hose size) so £270 per engine. I have had overheating issues and after Rydlyme treatment in situ ( there were blockages ) then taking then off and cleaning the long tube heat exchanger, the oil cooler, exhaust elbows, after-cooler ( only rinsing through as the insert cannot lift out due to boat design - the finned case has to come off the engine ) my next step is to change the 2 per engine coolant thermostats. In dealing with all this if the Vetus or what you used strainers are OK ( enough flow rate ) I may try and mount one after the raw water pump too, so that it catches impeller parts. I have had issues getting water to suck up the sea water standing pipe due to poor fitment of the 'pressure plate' top that fits under the screw down ( black) lid on my old type Volvo strainers.
 
Hi , really helpful stuff thanks for sharing. Can I ask which strainers you used for £100 and do they have a clear top? I looked at Vetus 38mm pipe ones (but looked much smaller volume than the original year 2003 ones Volvo fitted to my KAMD300 ( in a Prestige 32) so have not done this yet. New type clear top high capacity Volvo strainers are £210 plus two £30 pipe adapters ( as they are 50mm hose size) so £270 per engine. I have had overheating issues and after Rydlyme treatment in situ ( there were blockages ) then taking then off and cleaning the long tube heat exchanger, the oil cooler, exhaust elbows, after-cooler ( only rinsing through as the insert cannot lift out due to boat design - the finned case has to come off the engine ) my next step is to change the 2 per engine coolant thermostats. In dealing with all this if the Vetus or what you used strainers are OK ( enough flow rate ) I may try and mount one after the raw water pump too, so that it catches impeller parts. I have had issues getting water to suck up the sea water standing pipe due to poor fitment of the 'pressure plate' top that fits under the screw down ( black) lid on my old type Volvo strainers.
I had problems getting a good seal on the lid of the VP strainer and could not find a replacement that would fit without hose modifications/adaptors so I modified the VP strainer by fitting a clear lid. Has been working well for 5 years.
Raw water strainer with clear lid modification_resize_12.jpg

Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
 
Hi Martin

The strainer fitted was FTR330 cost £101.00 from Volvo dealer . I think it has a clear top the old one had a black top. It could be your pump though. I know some models can be repaired but the price of new ones are horrendous. For cooling issues - I roughly compared the flow timing and power of the exhausted water against a similar boat and mine was down. Changed the filter which stopped the air intake and flow now perfect.
 
Hi Martin

The strainer fitted was FTR330 cost £101.00 from Volvo dealer . I think it has a clear top the old one had a black top. It could be your pump though. I know some models can be repaired but the price of new ones are horrendous. For cooling issues - I roughly compared the flow timing and power of the exhausted water against a similar boat and mine was down. Changed the filter which stopped the air intake and flow now perfect.

Hi ,that's great to hear that I think you have a Vetus filter FTR330/32mm (or 38mm?) fitted and that the flow rate is sufficient , even at high speed. I bought two and they look about 2/3 the size of the Volvo ones so I returned them. I had no specs on the flow rate for the Volvo ones so had no idea if the VetusFTR330 would meet or exceed the Volvo flow rates. I guess the Vetus ones are more efficient for their size and the strainer mesh holes.

For completeness, is this your filter on a KAMD300 or similar size engine ( mine is shaft drive if the cooling circuit is different to stern drive).

Vetus Raw Water Strainer Type 330 Ø32mm (Vetus FTR330/32)
 
I cant see that the size of the filter bowl makes much difference as it is just a holding tank for rubbish, its the suck of the pump that is important. Engine Volvo Penta TAMD 41AP
 
Unfortunately diagnosis by changing until you get to the problem is very expensive but in this case not sure there is way to measure pump output when it is 90%
A discussion with the contractor may be possible and may get a discount or redress
You don’t say if you used a VP dealer or not if so bringing VPUK into discussion may get some leverage but from age of engine warranty is not appropriate
If you have not paid in full this also is an option for negotiation
It all sucks
From an ex dealers point of view in our case the invoices would have been looked at before Presentation and pruned accordingly
 
My raw water pump was leaking so I replaced it with one of these Sea Water Pump for Volvo Penta 31, 32, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 300, Repl: 3583115 - Raw Water Pumps - Cooling System - Parts for Volvo Penta Diesel - Volvo Penta Engines & Sterndrives The original pump will be refurbished and kept on the boat as a spare.
OK thanks will bear in mind and filed. By the way the pumps do throw water out by design ( via the 'slinger washer') from the casing holes when the washers with the spring inside fail due to the springs rusting and breaking their strength to squeeze around the pump shaft. These are a regular service item - but if your pump had a worn body inside its good to replace it.My type does not have a replaceable cam-plate which again is a wear component.When you say refurbish the original do you mean send it away for the inner surface to be re-polished
, or you are going to get a shaft, bearing and seal kit and fit yourself? ( I've done it but you need access to a bench press to get the bearings off the shaft. If the bearings are OK you can do it with normal tools, hammer and a socket the size of the bearings)
 
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