Volvo Penta Raw Water pump Leaking, less than two years old

[scottie]

Pump will have a tell tail hole just where you describe the leak to tell you that one of the shaft seals is leaking!

 

[tribblehunter]

Hi Inspiron

No water filter on your engine if it is a sterndrive installation.

Your leak will be probably from the circulation pump. Coming from behind the pulley in the middle of the front of the engine.

New pump required.

 

[inspiron]

Hi Inspiron

No water filter on your engine if it is a sterndrive installation.

Your leak will be probably from the circulation pump. Coming from behind the pulley in the middle of the front of the engine.

New pump required.

Ok, that explains why I couldn't find it.

Pump will have a tell tail hole just where you describe the leak to tell you that one of the shaft seals is leaking!

That is exactly where I believe it is leaking. Not big leakage, but when spinning - belts send the drops all over the place

Do you believe it is the whole water pump that needs replacement or just some sealing? I guess we will not know until it is taken apart...

Thanks for help!

 

[tribblehunter]

Going to be a new pump. Not repairable.

 

[inspiron]

Ok, will get a new one.

Just for a sanity check - this is a correct one, right?

http://www.iboats.com/Circulating-Water-Pump-Sierra/dm/view_id.171891

 

[DavidJ]

I had a similar problem on a petrol VP raw water pump some years ago. After solving the problem the alternator failed and on inspection the salt water had caused massive damage (even though they are supposed to be marinised) Best to check. Hopefully your alternator positioning is not on the flight path of drips.

 

[inspiron]

I had a similar problem on a petrol VP raw water pump some years ago. After solving the problem the alternator failed and on inspection the salt water had caused massive damage (even though they are supposed to be marinised) Best to check. Hopefully your alternator positioning is not on the flight path of drips.

It does take some of the drips, but not a direct hit. Regardless, the boat is going to be in the water for another 2 weeks or so and then it is more or less end of the season in this part of the world.

Alternator will be replaced anyway in the offseason, since it is an after-fit and wearing out belt as crazy...

 

[tribblehunter]

Yes. That should be the one. Make sure bolt holes in block are good and seal the threads with ptfe or similar.

 

[inspiron]

Hm - wanted to order a new water pump for my AQ225E and according to the original Volvo part no., it should be this one:
http://www.iboats.com/Circulating-Water-Pump-Sierra/dm/view_id.171891

However, when taking a look at my current (leaky) one, it doesn't look like the original one from the picture above but rather like this:

http://s30.postimg.org/b2f2by0hd/2014_09_28_15_11_15.jpg

It kind of looks like it has been changed to a different one? A link to this one on the picture would be appreciated.

 

[tribblehunter]

It seems I was in error.

It would have been the correct pump if your leak was coming from behind the pulley (circulation pump, 4 bolts at top of your picture) but it looks like it is coming from the Salt water pump (6 screws at bottom of your picture).

This is a repairable item and will most likely require bearing replacement as well. (if the leak was form the circulation pump it would be coolant as your engine has closed circuit cooling).

Best option is to get new pump if you cant source the bearings and do the work yourself. http://www.keypart.com/stock/857451

 

[inspiron]

From what I can see, Johnson FS5B-9 pump will fit as well:
http://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Pumps-10-24228-1-F5B-9-Crankshaft/dp/B004Y7JBI2

 

[Raycarroll]

HI 2 Seals are about ten pounds and its an hours labour at the most to repair it, unless the shaft is scored then you will need a full overhaul kit about a hundred quid and 2 hours labour, dont worry!

Hi Volvo Paul. Can I ask please - beneath the crankcase breather and behind the air inlet rubber hose there is a small drilled hole and I have now raw water leaking out this hole. Can you tell me what that’s telling me - is it a tell tale for a bellows leak into the flywheel space maybe?? If so am
I looking at a full strip down? Thank you.

 

[volvopaul]

Hi Volvo Paul. Can I ask please - beneath the crankcase breather and behind the air inlet rubber hose there is a small drilled hole and I have now raw water leaking out this hole. Can you tell me what that’s telling me - is it a tell tale for a bellows leak into the flywheel space maybe?? If so am
I looking at a full strip down? Thank you.

Which engine model ?

 

[Raycarroll]

Sorry it’s a D4-260

 

[volvopaul]

Sorry it’s a D4-260

Possibly water in the bellhousing , difficult to say .

 

[Raycarroll]

Yes. Is this hole on the engine block behind the air inlet rubber hose a tell tale hole for this reason? Or is this hole something else? Also how else would I know without lifting the boat if the outdrive bellows is in fact passing - remove starter motor?? Tks for advice.

 

[oldgit]

Always thought the little gap in the raw water pump body casting where you can see the shaft rotating is to help stop raw cooling water getting into the engine block and causing havoc in the lubricating oil.
You might get away with simply replacing the seal immediatly behind the impellor.
Loads of Youtube videos on the subject.
Perhaps the least scary big job on an engine.
Fancy some DIY ?
Take it off and do it at home or in situ.
On boats with VP 40/41 engines in an emergency have literally removed face plate, removed impellor, dug out old worn seal and tapped in replacement seal with a just the right sized long socket and reassembled.
Easy to check for wear on shaft with your finger.

Appreciate that the water pump on the posters KAD32 engine is different and it would appear that what was a simple job has now been made 10 times more complicated.
Good old VP.

 

[tico]

Just a thought..... something to be aware of on KAD engines.
If the shaft and seals are pressed out, it is important that the shaft is replaced exactly in the same axial position.
If the shaft is pressed in too far, it can bear on the fuel pump, and restrict the flow of fuel.
This reveals itself as a reluctance to achieve full revs under load.

 

[Portofino]

Always thought the little gap in the raw water pump body casting where you can see the shaft rotating is to help stop raw cooling water getting into the engine block and causing havoc in the lubricating oil.
You might get away with simply replacing the seal immediatly behind the impellor.
Loads of Youtube videos on the subject.
Perhaps the least scary big job on an engine.
Fancy some DIY ?
Take it off and do it at home or in situ.
On boats with VP 40/41 engines in an emergency have literally removed face plate, removed impellor, dug out old worn seal and tapped in replacement seal with a just the right sized long socket and reassembled.
Easy to check for wear on shaft with your finger.

Appreciate that the water pump on the posters KAD32 engine is different and it would appear that what was a simple job has now been made 10 times more complicated.
Good old VP.

Agreed - “ little gap ….” On a water pump Is a tell tale hole .When ( not if ) it starts weeping it’s time for rebuild hopefully or replacement .
It supposed to prevent egress of water into the oil .