Volvo Penta MD2 23hp

[Atlantis]

Any info, spec, characteristics, output, consumption, comments about this engine? It was made in 1980 and I have no info about it at all. Thanks.

 

[bedouin]

The Volvo MD series were probably the most popular engines fitted to auxillary yachts during the 1970s - the MD2 being the two cylinder version. I have a 1972 MD2B (more correctly MDIIB) - but I suspect that a 1980 model will be the MD2C.

They are very reliable engines that will last forever if properly maintained. By modern standards they are very "agricultural"; service parts are readily available and reasonably priced. Major components are available but are prohibitively expensive, so a major rebuild is unlikely to be viable.

 

[Atlantis]

Thanks Bedouin.. it's good to know it's a reliable engine.. I've just bought a motorsailer fitted with that engine (subject to succesful sea trials in 2 weeks).. the current owner has assured me that the engine is in a very good condition but I want to give it a few running tests.

I have had a look at Volvo Penta's website and found that if I ever wanted to fit a new engine, the most adequate ones are the MD2020 or MD2030 (MD 2040 too?), but I still have to check if the size of the engine compartment in my boat is big enough to accommodate any of those (according to her documentation I can fit engines up to 44hp).. in any case, if the MD2 eventually doesn't run well I might also look for a recently refurbished similar engine.

I don't know about prices for the new MD2020, 2030, 2040, but I guess they must be terribly expensive, and probably not worth installing them on an already 22 year old boat.

Best regards.. Atlantis

 

[bedouin]

If you are looking to replace the engine then there are a number of alternatives - you should consider Beta, Yanmar and the like as well as Volvo. I think that modern engines tend to be more compact (and smoother running!) than the older ones - so fitting should not be a problem.

It is common to replace engines in older boats - the total cost is quite high (not sure how much, I would guess £5,000) but if the old engine is beyond economic repair then there isn't much option. Fitting a reconditioned engine is unlikely to be an option since the cost of reconditioning is so high (otherwise you might as well recondition the one you've got).

If it is not too late I would recommend getting a marine engineer to survey the engine - given the cost of replacement you don't want to buy a boat with an engine that is on it's last legs.

 

[norseman]

I am in much the same position at present, my motorsailer has a Md11c/110s fitted. The engine starts and runs fine, but the more you push it the more grey/white smoke it pumps out. The approach to these old engines is I believe, not to spend a lot of money on parts, as its the corrosion and cooling problems you will experience which will finally determine when you have to re engine.My thoughts are that, nobody will be able to tell you the internal condition of the engine and If you are buying a boat with an engine that age you should consider in the price the cost of a new engine. Volvo 2030 27Hp £5900 +vat, but you can asually get the Vat value knocked off. It also comes with adapter brackets which make fitting quite easy. When you consider that it is £350 for a recon starter, and £400 for a cyl head it doesnt look quite as bad.

 

[Kurrawong_Kid]

I have an MD2B in my boat-it is 30 years old! It has generally proved to be very reliable, including motoring virtually all the way from the Baltic to the East Coast last year with very little wind BUT we had an engine survey before we bought the boat 11 years ago and Starey Marine of Salcombe reckoned the compressions were low and re ringed it, replaced the engine mounts and reground the valves etc.
I was able to get the price of the boat reduced by half the cost of the repairs to the engine-best money I have spent on the boat since the engine has given little serious trouble since.
However I have been very careful to winterise it properly every year, to change the oil and filter every 40 hours running and keep a very close look out for fuel line leaks.
The faults that have occurred were compounded by me not knowing the idiosyncracies of the breed. First carefully watch the engine mount under the fuel filter. If the filter drips then the engine mount disintegrates with alarming rapidity. I have changed it at least 5 times in 11 years! Similarly the bleed screw on the injector pump sometimes vibrates loose and more fuel drips out onto, you've guessed it, the mount under the filter! I put copper washers on these bleed screws-it was only when Keyparts of Watford supplied fibre washers that things markedly improved. Second watch for leaks from the hole in the waterpump housing. If water dribbles from there it means the seals have gone and failure to renew them will lead to the engine flooding with sea water. Third, make absolutely certain the oil filter and dip stick are screwed down firmly. If you don't then you may lose oil pressure because an air lock is caused which is very difficult to eliminate because you have to take the oil pump off and fill it with oil to prime it. Another thing to watch is the type of gearbox fitted. If it's an RS then the prop shaft has to be free to move backwards and forwards about 1/4 of an inch . If its the Monoshift type then there is a seperate oil filler point and I think water cooling.
The MD2B has a capacity of 1120cm3, bore 88.9mm, stroke 90mm compression ratio 17.5 to 1, torque 7.2 kpm at 2000 revs (max) and 25 hp. at 2500 revs.I get about 1/3 to 1/2 a gallon an hour at cruising revs, but only about 1 gallon an hour at full revs. Hope this is useful.

 

[Atlantis]

Mmm I guess I should then have it checked by an expert before/during testing.. and consider the possibility of repairing the most necessary bits.. installing a new engine at that cost is really too much.. if it really needs to be replaced I should buy a different boat or get a substantial reduction of the asking price.. thanks for your advice.. (I do hope the engine is not in too bad a condition because I really like this boat!!!).. Atlantis

 

[max]

I replaced an MD2B with an MD2030 on my 27 year old boat two years ago.

The MD2030 is smaller and lighter than the old engine. It is also much smoother and quieter.

Yes it was expensive but Volvo were doing a very good trade in deal and the yard threw in about £600 of extras at the same time - new stainless fuel tank (old one was painted steel and rotting - de lux control panel, clean and paint engine compartment etc etc. Negotiate hard.

Could have got cheaper - Beta for example, but by the time I added up all the extras and the discount there was not much in it.

The MD2b had pretty much rotted through with water seeping out through the water jacket in a number of places so there seemed little choice but to re-engine. As for whether its worth doing this in an old boat rather depends how long you think you are going to keep it. My 27 year old Westerly pentland does everything I want, and I very much hope will keep me going another 10-20 years!

 

[Atlantis]

Well.. I must say I was not expecting so much info so it's been really great to read all your messages.. all very valuable, and giving plenty different options for me..

I'll start by having the engine thoroughly checked by a mechanic.. if it's in a relatively good condition I'll do nothing else until it fails.. if it needs to be repaired and the cost is not too much I'll have it repaired.. and if it's beyond repair I'll consider buying a new engine, trading in the old one, and claiming a substantial discount off the total price for the boat..

I do like the boat very much.. it's a classic one design, with a very solid structure, and I would really love to have it for a long time, and refurbish and upgrade it with the years.. so I'll keep my fingers crossed.. and hope for the best..

I did check and download the spec of the different new engines which can be fitted on the boat.. including Volvo Penta MD2030 and MD 2040.. as well as the Saildrives manufactured by Yanmar and Sole.. so I'll be ready should I eventually need to fit a new engine..

Thank you very much.. to all of you.. and best regards..

Atlantis

 

[Lofty]

I had my MD2b replaced while I was in Holland this year. If you can get there it is worth considering. The engine was supplied by a Volvo workshop and cost £2441. I could not have bought the bits to recondition the engine myself at this price and these chaps really know what they are doing. They charged £379 for fitting which took them one day. The engine is a beauty and purred all the way back across the north sea.
It is much easier to exchange an engine with an identical one then fit something else. No bearers to change etc. The firm was Aquasport. Bert Droog, Fisser Selland 99c, 1621 AA Hoorn. Tel 0229 21 84 45 E-Mail bert@aquasport.demon.nl
The staff and the boss were very easly to deal with and eager to sort any problems. I met the owner of a Centuar from Dover while I was there who had also had an engine change. He too, was very satisfied. If I can help with any further info please get in touch.

 

[Atlantis]

Hi Lofty.. thanks for your message.. I've spoken to a local expert today who's got a mechanical repairs company (I'm in NW Spain).. he told me not to worry about the engine too much.. he's seen the boat I'm buying and reckons the engine will be ok for a while.. besides, he told me that his guys got a load of experience repairing this type of engines and that spares would not be a problem, so a full engine refit for a reasonable price would be feasible if eventually required..

With regard to a possible engine replacement, he advised me not to think of Yanmar or Sole but to consider fitting a new Volvo Penta.. MD2030 or MD2040.. my boat is a heavy classic motorsailer so, according to him, if I ever replace the engine I should fit a 40ish hp engine by Volvo (max authorized on my boat is 44 hp).. spares and maintenance are more expensive but the engine seems to be of a better quality..

Best regards.. Atlantis

 

[maxi]

A really good comercial engine, but they all die of internal corrosion. Conversion to freshwater cooling is easy and not too expensive, and will extend the life enormously. Mine cost £14 diy, kits are available from about £400. Best thing I ever did - plus domestic hot water for free!!

 

[Lofty]

Can anyone tell me how to convert my MD11 to freshwater cooling for a reasonable price. I sail on the Humber and we have lots of sediment passing through our engines. My last engine was certainly suffering. One cylinder was much hotter that the other and back flushing and various acid treatments did not help.