Which engine oil?

[down...2 greens]

I'm looking to the change the oil in a Volvo Penta MD2030 D, trying to track down something suitable, and confusing myself greatly in the process.

According to the manual the required spec is SAE 15W-40 and VDS-2, ACEA E5, API CH-4. It doesn't specify whether mineral or synthetic is preferred and I've seen VDS-2 grade in both. And it looks like E5 may have been superseded by a newer spec these days (E7?) - I haven't found anything labelled E5 so far.

So: If E5 is obsolete what should I be looking for instead? And synthetic or mineral?

I did spot the offering below which lists E3 in the details but shows a picture with E7 on the label. It's a lot cheaper than the 'official' VP oil - any thoughts?

https://www.autodoc.parts/mannol/15768088

 

[Kwik Decision]

Oil for yacht engines

This is an excellent source of information on oil for yacht engines.

Personally, I use the following in our Yanmar:

Smith & Allan Ultra 15W-40 - Mineral Engine Oil

 

[vyv_cox]

API CI-4 has all the properties we could ask for, along with a modern additive package.

 

[down...2 greens]

Thanks gents. That's a useful resource indeed Andy. Vyv, are you saying that CI-4 is a suitable (or better) alternative to CH-4? And is that an alternative to the ACEA spec, or should I be looking for both?

(And is mineral better for a 21 year old engine?)

Thanks!

 

[VicS]

I'm looking to the change the oil in a Volvo Penta MD2030 D, trying to track down something suitable, and confusing myself greatly in the process.

According to the manual the required spec is SAE 15W-40 and VDS-2, ACEA E5, API CH-4. It doesn't specify whether mineral or synthetic is preferred and I've seen VDS-2 grade in both. And it looks like E5 may have been superseded by a newer spec these days (E7?) - I haven't found anything labelled E5 so far.

So: If E5 is obsolete what should I be looking for instead? And synthetic or mineral?

I did spot the offering below which lists E3 in the details but shows a picture with E7 on the label. It's a lot cheaper than the 'official' VP oil - any thoughts?

https://www.autodoc.parts/mannol/15768088

ITYWF Shell Rimula R4 X 15W-40 meets the specification

.

 

[Tranona]

Thanks gents. That's a useful resource indeed Andy. Vyv, are you saying that CI-4 is a suitable (or better) alternative to CH-4? And is that an alternative to the ACEA spec, or should I be looking for both?

(And is mineral better for a 21 year old engine?)

Thanks!

Don't get too worked up about it. These are very simple unstressed engines and the basic diesel oils that widely available to CF 4 and above (which was the spec when the engine was designed in the 1980s) is fine. The important thing is to change the oil regularly because it is non use - or rather short periods of light use followed by long periods of non use that does the harm.

 

[seeSimon]

Oil for yacht engines

This is an excellent source of information on oil for yacht engines.

Personally, I use the following in our Yanmar:

Smith & Allan Ultra 15W-40 - Mineral Engine Oil

Another vote for the Cox Engineering site!

Personally, I have found Smith and Allen to be excellent lubes, reasonably priced.
I also use their ATF in my Beta/TwinDisc saildrive.

Imho, (As a retired Chartered Marine Engineer... but no "yotting" expert!) It is possible to over-specify oils for these older type small marine engines. As well as being a waste of money, this can damage machines (as per above reference).

Save your high spec synthetic oils for long service interval automotive applications....if you must! I recently ran a couple of new (leased) VW Tiguans for work.
According to VW, and the cars themselves, they did not require an Oil change in the first year/30 000 miles! I would NOT do this with owned vehicles.

 

[Refueler]

Must be about time to change oil in my old Perkins 4-107 ... its been about 5 - 6 yrs !!!!

My Yanmar 2GM will be during layup ... having done 1 season

The VP AQ170 will be same - during layup ... 1 season

What Oil ? The Perkins gets standard 10-40 grade as does the gearbox ... the Yanmar will also get a Multi of the recc'd range .... the VP will get same as the Perkins ...

Yes I know - I should know better in my job !!!

All I say is if you do use a cheap budget oil ... change it more frequently as the cheaper the oil - the more recycled oil is in the blend ... with all sorts of additives to meet the specs. What they cannot do is give the oil back its service life ....

 

[vyv_cox]

Don't get too worked up about it. These are very simple unstressed engines and the basic diesel oils that widely available to CF 4 and above (which was the spec when the engine was designed in the 1980s) is fine. The important thing is to change the oil regularly because it is non use - or rather short periods of light use followed by long periods of non use that does the harm.

That may be true for your style of boat use but in mine in the Aegean we often motor for voyages of many hours. In a good season our engine will run for well in excess of 100 hours, for which a good grade of oil is a worthwhile investment.

API CI-4 was developed in recognition that sulfur levels in fuel are now considerably lower than they were. This oil has a lower TBN than other specifications, which is beneficial for the engine, plus its additive package is excellent.

 

[vyv_cox]

Another vote for the Cox Engineering site!

..............

Save your high spec synthetic oils for long service interval automotive applications....if you must! I recently ran a couple of new (leased) VW Tiguans for work.
According to VW, and the cars themselves, they did not require an Oil change in the first year/30 000 miles! I would NOT do this with owned vehicles.

Thank you for the vote

The big plus for synthetic lubricants is their greatly reduced oxidation rate at high temperatures. Modern high performance automotive engines may see constant temperatures well over 100C, which mineral oils do not cope with well. Water cooled yacht engines should never approach these oil temperatures, making good quality mineral oils perfectly suitable.

 

[doug748]

I ordered 25lts from these people:

15W40 Engine Oil for Kubota Diesel Engines Mineral

Came at under £90 inc VAT and UK delivery.

.

 

[Tranona]

That may be true for your style of boat use but in mine in the Aegean we often motor for voyages of many hours. In a good season our engine will run for well in excess of 100 hours, for which a good grade of oil is a worthwhile investment.

API CI-4 was developed in recognition that sulfur levels in fuel are now considerably lower than they were. This oil has a lower TBN than other specifications, which is beneficial for the engine, plus its additive package is excellent.

Yes, I know. That is the way my 2030 was used in Corfu, clocking up over 3000 hours in 7 years. However it is typical of the majority of private boats in the UK where average annual hours are typically well under 100. Few boats do more than 40 days a year, and even those that are used more frequently like the cruisers in our club who race as well as cruise don't clock up the hours - maybe 2 30 minute runs every time they go out, or even less if on a swinging mooring.

 

[Refueler]

Yes, I know. That is the way my 2030 was used in Corfu, clocking up over 3000 hours in 7 years. However it is typical of the majority of private boats in the UK where average annual hours are typically well under 100. Few boats do more than 40 days a year, and even those that are used more frequently like the cruisers in our club who race as well as cruise don't clock up the hours - maybe 2 30 minute runs every time they go out, or even less if on a swinging mooring.

Idle engines are not safe haven for oils ..... they sweat with temp change .... that short run can often not get the oil up to real temp it needs ..... acids and various from fuel etc etc.

So that oil that's only done 100 or so hours a year is still better changed ..... I would suggest that the Oil Filter might have chance of another season ... but ???

Yes I know I should heed my own advice !! What is it they say .... Never look at an auto mechanics car !

 

[thinwater]

...

API CI-4 was developed in recognition that sulfur levels in fuel are now considerably lower than they were. This oil has a lower TBN than other specifications, which is beneficial for the engine, plus its additive package is excellent.

^^ This. (My Chem E career was petrol and lubricants)

Old specs were based on fuels that no longer exist.

 

[Hot Property]

..............

Thank you for the vote

The big plus for synthetic lubricants is their greatly reduced oxidation rate at high temperatures. Modern high performance automotive engines may see constant temperatures well over 100C, which mineral oils do not cope with well. Water cooled yacht engines should never approach these oil temperatures, making good quality mineral oils perfectly suitable.

My Verado 200 outboard would register 110 c at a high cruise speed and nudged 120 at full chat.

I was sufficiently twitched to refer to the workshop manual which confirmed it was in spec.

Hotter than boiling water ...

Mercury use a 25w50 oil which is rare to find.

I think I used 10w40 but religiously changed annually.

 

[VicS]

My Verado 200 outboard would register 110 c at a high cruise speed and nudged 120 at full chat.
I was sufficiently twitched to refer to the workshop manual which confirmed it was in spec.
Hotter than boiling water ...
Mercury use a 25w50 oil which is rare to find.

I think I used 10w40 but religiously changed annually.

Easy to find ...... Force4 stock it.

.

 

[Hot Property]

I should have said, I wasn't prepared to pay for it .....

 

[Refueler]

I should have said, I wasn't prepared to pay for it .....

Sadly my stock of 'Base Oils' .... the prime volume of Lub OIls .... has been used up ...

I had a whole store-room full of samples from ships worked over years.

 

[Halo]

This is what I use on my 3YM
15w40 Mineral Diesel Engine Oil 20 Litre , E7, API CI-4/SL (not 25l)

from Rye Oil

 

[down...2 greens]

Excellent info there, thanks everyone. So the answer seems to be: mineral oil, 15w-40, E7 is fine rather than E5, and CI-4 should be even better than CH-4.

Hopefully I've got all that right, in which case I'll go and track some down!